Sunday, October 2, 2011

Hawaii debut

Even as Disney celebrates the 40th anniversary of its Central Florida kingdom, it rolls out something new in the company portfolio: a resort in Hawaii that actually goes light on the Disney brand.

KO OLINA, Hawaii — The new Aulani hotel on Oahu sets out to replace the cliches of tiki torches, totem poles, bamboo furniture and tacky luaus with a resort that celebrates Hawaii's history, traditions and cultures sprinkled with just a small dose of Disney's trademark pixie dust.

A modern take on a Hawaiian resort that puts a premium on tradition, the $800 million Aulani in Ko Olina on the southwest coast of Oahu opened in late August with 359 hotel rooms, 460 time-share units, two restaurants, two bars, a spa and a conference center. The official grand opening was Sept. 22.

Though this premise seems more than just a bit ironic for a company that has built its brand on fairy-tale fantasy, Disney manages to pull it off with style, grace and beauty, resulting in a modern Hawaiian resort that delivers on its promise and its considerable marquee name.

The 21-acre resort, about 30 minutes from Waikiki, is worlds apart in look, feel and spirit from that tourist mecca of high-rise cement monoliths.

As I approached the Aulani with my wife, Nancy, and daughter, Hannah, 11, the rock and timber porte-cochere extended from the tallest of three A-frame thatch huts that serve as the hotel lobby.

Above, a pair of towers rose like modern interpretations of a Hawaiian fishing village — if fishermen could build a 15-story hotel.

Just inside, telephone pole-size timbers supported the cathedrallike vaulted ceiling that arches to a point. Geometric-patterned mats filled in the gaps between the spines to maintain the thatched-roof feel. Lights dangled from above in clusters of fishing nets like luminescent jellyfish. A verdant ribbon mural depicting island life wrapped the perimeter.

The open-air lobby was decorated with symbolic Hawaiian elements. Outside the lobby, a balcony overlooked the lush grounds with the pool (more like a water park) and the Pacific just beyond.

Water plays a central role, from the pool and the sunset-facing hot tubs to the saltwater snorkeling pool and the adult and youth spas.

The centerpiece of the Aulani's pool is Pu'u Kilo, a man-made volcanic outcropping with hidden stingrays, squid and crabs carved into the lava rock. Two water slides — one a zippy body slide through the dark and the other an inner-tube slide with plenty of airtime — start at the top of the peak.

Hannah's favorite part of the Aulani pool complex was the 900-foot-long lazy river that wound through misty caverns, under footbridges and around the resort's lush tropical grounds.

My favorite spot was the sunset-facing hot tubs, one cascading into the other. It was a great place to decompress while sipping a tropical cocktail. I was at my most relaxed just leaning on the edge of the pool, peering off at the horizon.

The most unique aspect of the Aulani's pool area was the saltwater Rainbow Reef snorkeling lagoon, an 8-foot-deep pool filled with 1,000 angelfish, tangs and butterfly fish.

It was the perfect introduction for a first-time snorkeler like Hannah and a second-time amateur like myself.

An all-day fee ($20 for adults, $10 for kids) included use of the snorkel equipment in the protected cove just beyond the Aulani's beach.

Nancy had been looking forward to the resort's Laniwai Spa, which offered massage therapies ranging from therapeutic, herbal and hot stone to shiatsu, Thai and traditional Hawaiian. She also opted for the $45 access pass that allowed her access to the vitality pools, "rain" showers and outdoor hydrotherapy garden.

As for the rooms, you pay according to the view — standard, island, poolside, partial ocean or ocean. The island-view rooms offer rolling green panoramas of Oahu's undisturbed countryside, save the midrise hotels to either side of the Aulani.

All the resort's hotel rooms measure in at a comfortable 382 square feet, with 16 suites ranging from 764 to 1,910 square feet.


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