Monday, December 26, 2011

The jolly old soul of Pomeroy

POMEROY, Iowa — As Leonard Olson turned a piece of exotic wood on his lathe, he easily could have been mistaken for Santa Claus, what with that bushy white beard and hair.

Except he was dressed in navy overalls — not a red suit. And, unless all the elves have the flu, Santa doesn't do the manual labor himself, does he?

Even so, at this time of year Olson calls his Kaleidoscope Factory — in tiny Pomeroy, Iowa — Santa's Workshop. In the weeks leading up to the holidays, he has been snowed under with orders for a variety of handmade wooden crafts — such as toy trains, puzzles and his trademark kaleidoscopes — all lovingly produced in the shop and classroom to which he welcomes visitors.

"This all was an offshoot of the hobby of woodworking," Olson explained as flurries dusted Pomeroy's Main Street on a recent Sunday afternoon.

As a kid growing up on an Iowa farm during the 1950s and '60s, he played with one of the cardboard kaleidoscopes that were mass-produced in St. Louis. But as an adult, Olson never gave them a thought until he got one as a gift. He received it while lying in a hospital bed recuperating from quintuple-bypass surgery.

"I paid attention to their reactions," he said of the medical staff who eagerly took turns peering through the eyepiece of Olson's present.

Those reactions to the ever-changing images and colors were so intriguing that Olson decided to make a major life change. He swapped his career as a computer software writer for the equally creative — but far less stressful — job of kaleidoscope creator.

"The basic thing is, it's got to have mirrors in it," he said of his prized product. "A lot of people think it's a prism, but it's not. It's mirrors. All the kaleidoscopes I make have three mirrors."

Those pieces of glass, which he tapes together, are then inserted in a hand-turned wooden tube. Olson works with exotic woods that have enchanting names such as African padauk, cocobolo and zebrawood.

"They're front-surface mirrors," he added. "The mirror you look at on the wall every morning is a second-surface mirror. The silvering's on the back.

"Front-surface mirrors are used in good kaleidoscopes, single lens reflex cameras, good telescopes. It's expensive but it's well worth it, because it gives a bright, sharp image because there's no refraction of the light."

The remaining components are a clear glass marble, which acts as a fisheye lens, and, in some scopes, a clear-glass wand filled with colorful objects that float in front of the marble, evoking wonderment from the beholder.

Olson loves to share his skills with visitors to his shop. They come from all over the world, as evidenced by the scads of pushpins placed on a large map on one wall. This year he has had visitors from 26 states and six foreign countries.

A trip to Pomeroy, about 30 miles northwest of Fort Dodge, is worth it as much for a chat with the philosophical Olson as it is to see him craft his one-of-a-kind kaleidoscopes.

Olson is happy to share his craft-making skills, in everything from fused-glass jewelry to marbled silk scarves, in his back room. This is the living classroom for what he calls the College of Leonard. Its motto, as noted on the "college" crest, is "carpe diem," or "seize the day."

Seizing the day is something in which the always-optimistic Olson is well-versed. It's all about perception.

"I don't have bad days. I just have some days that are a lot better than others," he said.

"You look in a kaleidoscope, and you see a beautiful image. You pass it to your neighbor to look at it, and something's going to shift," he added. "Things are always changing. But the key point is that the next image is still pretty nice, too.

"So don't get too hooked on what you're doing now, because something good's still coming down the road. That's the metaphor on life that a kaleidoscope has."

What a wonderful gift from Santa.

If you go

The Kaleidoscope Factory (kaleidoscopefactory.com) is at 106 S. Main St. in Pomeroy, Iowa, a few miles north of U.S. Highway 20.

Leonard Olson welcomes visitors year-round. He keeps the "tours" link on his website updated as to when he's available. He's also happy to answer emails.

Olson invites folks to simply drop in for an "ad hoc" crafts class at the College of Leonard (collegeofleonard.com). However, he needs 10 days' notice for scarf-making classes. There are minimal charges for supplies.

Most of his kaleidoscopes are 91/2 inches long and sell for about $100, depending on the type of wood. They also can be ordered by mail.

ctc-travel@tribune.com


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Maybe I won't be home for Christmas

Q: We are supposed to fly to Australia for Christmas to be with my wife's parents, but we're not sure if we'll be able to make it. I hope you can help us.

Last summer, we booked our domestic flights from Melbourne to Cairns on Jetstar Airways through CheapOair.com. We received a confirmation from CheapOair and my wife even spent 40 minutes on the phone with their billing department, to make sure the transaction went through. She also phoned CheapOair two days later to verify the transaction and received assurances all was clear.

But when she called Jetstar a few days ago, they said we didn't have a flight. A representative told us our credit card had been declined.

CheapOair has offered to put us on another flight but at a higher cost and perhaps a different date. I just want them to honor the reservation we made several months ago. Can you help? -- Michael Burz, Bethesda, Md.

A: If CheapOair sent you a confirmation, then you should have had a ticket. It doesn't seem fair that you're being asked to buy a more expensive ticket only a few days before you're supposed to be home for Christmas.

Could this have been prevented? You might have called Jetstar after you made the reservation to make sure your credit card went through. But normally, a confirmation from your online travel agency means your flight is also confirmed with your airline.

You shouldn't have to call every airline, car rental company and hotel on your itinerary to separately confirm your itinerary -- after all, that's why you're dealing with an online travel agency.

I found it interesting that you phoned CheapOair twice to "make sure" the transaction went through. Your tickets cost $2,261, which is no small sum. If you had continued to monitor your credit card transactions, you would have probably noticed that the amount wasn't deducted from your account, and you might have been able to catch this error last summer.

I contacted CheapOair on your behalf, and here's what happened: There was a breakdown in communication between the reservation system used by your online agency and the airline's reservation system. That resulted in a confirmation being generated without a reservation.

CheapOair should have been able to catch the problem, particularly since your wife called the agency twice to inquire about the tickets. And Jetstar should have contacted CheapOair when your credit card was declined, letting it know that it canceled the reservation.

CheapOair should have offered you a better solution than buying a new, more expensive ticket. I contacted the company on your behalf, and it agreed to buy a new ticket, with Jetstar covering half the difference in airfare and CheapOair picking up the other half.

Enjoy your trip to Australia.

Christopher Elliott is the author of "Scammed: How to Save Your Money and Find Better Service in a World of Schemes, Swindles, and Shady Deals" (Wiley). He's also the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine and the co-founder of the Consumer Travel Alliance, a nonprofit organization that advocates for travelers. Read more tips on his blog, elliott.org or e-mail him at chris@elliott.org. Christopher Elliott receives a great deal of reader mail, and though he answers them as quickly as possible, your story may not be published for several months because of a backlog of cases.


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Sunday, December 25, 2011

Field guide from Dugald Stermer: An indelible take on nature

Spiny lobster illustration

A meticulous illustration of a spiny lobster by artist Dugald Stermer that appeared in the L.A. Times. (Dugald Stermer / For the L.A. Times)

Artist Dugald Stermer, who died Dec. 2 at age 74, was known for his work on Ramparts magazine and most famously for his update of the Olympic medals for the 1984 Games.

But as a onetime member of the Los Angeles Times' Outdoors section, I will always cherish the stunning and detailed color illustrations of animals and flowers that he created starting in 2003 for the section, a former part of the newspaper. Each illustration ran weekly and was accompanied by a field guide entry written by naturalist David Lukas.

Times staff writer Valerie J. Nelson explains his style of wildlife drawing in this obituary: "In the 1970s, he made his first wildlife drawings when he failed to find illustrations of seabirds to run in Oceans magazine. His illustrations were exactingly rendered in pencil with a watercolor wash."

The illustrator's daughter Megan Dugald said his "new style" had "kind of hit a chord." It was "classic wildlife painting," she said, but with a bit of a contemporary twist.

His books include "Vanishing Creatures" (1980) and "Vanishing Flora" (1995).

Here's a photo gallery of some of the creatures and flora that came to life under Stermer's careful hand -- and places to visit to see them in real life.


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"Theme Park 2.0" features pricey, high-tech attractions


ORLANDO, Fla (Reuters) - Investment in theme parks and cutting-edge attractions along the lines of the Wizarding World of Harry Potter at Universal Orlando surged during the recession, leading one developer to suggest the business is entering a new Golden Age.

"It's almost like a Theme Park 2.0, or a re-boot," said Brent Young, co-founder of the Super 78 production studio in Hollywood, California.

"We're really coming into a second Golden Age in theme park development," he said.

The first boom, which peaked in the 1970s, saw extensive construction of theme parks in the United States from the ground up. Development of Walt Disney World, Six Flags, Busch Gardens and numerous regional parks led to a saturation of the U.S. market by the 1980s, according to John Gerner, managing director of Leisure Business Advisors.

The new era is a global phenomenon propelled by technological advances and a growing middle class in Asia and third-world countries, Gerner and Young said.

"In the U.S., we think of a squeeze on the middle class. But in other parts of the world, they've got an expanding middle class," said Gerner, who has consulted on projects for leading attractions worldwide.

Gerner said China is experiencing a theme park construction boom comparable to what occurred in the United States in the 1970s. The coming of a Disney park in Shanghai triggered an expansion of the Chinese regional theme park company Happy Valley, he said. Disney broke ground in Shanghai this year and anticipates a 2015 open.

"In the past when Disney has opened in a region of the world, it has encouraged others to do so. With the Shanghai Disney park, we would expect a similar increase, its own boom," Gerner said.

Young, who specializes in the application of emerging technologies in themed attractions, said the new Golden Age is marked by the additions of highly themed and immersive experiences using state-of-the-art technology.

HELP FROM HARRY POTTER

The huge success of the Harry Potter ride at Universal Orlando, which executives say boosted attendance by 50 percent, has further ignited demand, Young said. Since that attraction opened in June 2010, Universal has been breaking its attendance records.

"Harry Potter was a disrupter and forced everybody to step up their game," Young said. "It became this arms race."

Young said his business took off in 2007, fueled by projects in China and Singapore even as the U.S. economy was hit by the burst of the housing bubble.

Among his entries opened over the past two years is Flight of the Dragon at the Happy Valley theme park in Shanghai. The ride is a 4-D simulated flying experience moving through a curved black box theater with water sprits, scents and wind creating realistic effects.

Spending on new attractions in the United States also is up. Dennis Speigel, president of International Theme Park Services, estimates spending rose 30-35 percent over the past two years, following four years of mostly stagnant attendance and deep discounting at parks.

Much of the spending is on redevelopment and additions to existing parks, he said.

He cited several examples of recent investment in the central Florida tourist hub alone, including SeaWorld Orlando's planned overhaul of its penguin exhibit to include state-of-the-art interactive ride technology, and the just-completed revamp of the historic Cypress Gardens ski-show park in Winter Haven into a Legoland.

"It's what the industry needs to do now to ratchet up," Speigel said.

Ride manufacturers who met in Orlando in November for the annual International Association of Amusement Parks and Attractions convention have "never been busier," Speigel said.

"Literally, they're almost at capacity for the next couple of years," he said.

Experts said the end is nowhere in sight, thanks to technological advances that will continue to create demand.

Within the next decade, Young said he expects attractions will enable park guests to feel as if they are sharing space with fully rendered 3-D characters and other nearly unimaginable experiences.

"I'm not even sure what this means," Speigel said of expectations for coming attractions, "(but) it's going to be the 5th dimension."

(Editing by Colleen Jenkins and Jerry Norton)


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A holiday surprise from the travel industry

Sometimes when you travel, it's the little gestures of compassion that make the biggest difference -- especially during the holidays.

For Becky Brand, it was the bus driver on Washington's L2 line who went out of his way to help her during Thanksgiving week. "While I was struggling with a heavy suitcase in the rain, he made my day by stopping to let me on instead of having me run to the bus stop a block away," says Brand, who works for a legal advocacy group in the capital. "Although a small and random act of kindness, it made my holiday week and definitely gave me something to be thankful for."

Jenny Block remembers the nameless American Airlines employee who answered her plea on Twitter. Her cousin had been left in a coma after a traffic accident, and she needed the airline to bend a flight-change rule. Block, a writer who lives in Dallas, received an immediate reply: Of course, the airline would help her.

"You won't believe this part," she told me. "It happened on Thanksgiving morning."

Oh no, that part I would believe.

See, that's the funny thing about the travel industry. For a business that, with a few notable exceptions, thinks nothing of offending its customers most of the year, the short-lived transformation during the holidays is incredible. It's as if someone turned back the clock and made common courtesy and customer service important again.

And it cuts both ways. This is the time of year when you hear about customers committing random acts of kindness, too.

When Natalie Caine, a counselor from Toluca Lake, Calif., saw the woman in front of her at the airport coffee shop come up a few dollars short as she tried to buy snacks for her children, Caine covered her tab. "I know the stress of parenting and travel," she says.

Joellen Freeman, an administrative assistant from Lexington, S.C., was flying from Cleveland to Atlanta when she witnessed a remarkable seat switch. "A gentleman came up to a soldier," she remembers. "He introduced himself and then asked the soldier about his seat assignment. He then traded seats with the soldier -- giving up his first-class seat for one in coach as an expression of his gratitude for the service of the young man. It was very touching."

Not all these gestures are spontaneous, but that doesn't make them any less remarkable.

Jessica Langley, a flight attendant based in Columbus, Ohio, spends the year collecting soaps and shampoos in hotels. She recently drove from her home in Palm Beach, Fla., to Orlando to deliver 55 pounds of toiletries to a charity called Clean the World, which is dedicated to helping stop the spread of fatal diseases worldwide. "To me, it's a no-brainer," she says. "A few extra ounces in my carry-on luggage can have a big impact."

At the Sheraton Kauai, employees donated 1,000 pounds of food to the Hawaii Food Bank for Thanksgiving. Then, for good measure, they threw in the keys to the van. "This effort has led to the resort designating a Food Bank Table in the hotel's restaurant each day where proceeds from that table will be donated to the Hawaii Food Bank," says Jonathan Pappas, a spokesman for the resort.

I don't know about you, but I love hearing about how the travel industry goes out of its way to be charitable year-round. As a consumer advocate who deals with complaints all the time, these stories give me hope. Because charitable giving and good customer service often go hand-in-hand, they make me believe that one day, this industry will again compete on customer service and not just price.

But the niceness can also make me feel a little awkward, particularly when it comes from a place where you'd least expect it. Hearing about an act of compassion from an employee of a discount airline or from an online agency that routes all customer complaints to an overseas call center can be downright jarring.

Or even, from the TSA.

But there I was, just a week after Thanksgiving, waiting curbside for my family to pick me up at the airport. When they arrived, I brought one bag over to the car, and when I turned around, I saw an off-duty Transportation Security Administration agent standing there with my second bag.

I don't think he knew that he'd just assisted one of the agency's most vocal critics with his luggage. It made the gesture all the more meaningful.

I was speechless. All I could manage was a timid, "Thank you."

The agent smiled and said, "Welcome home."

Christopher Elliott is the author of "Scammed: How to Save Your Money and Find Better Service in a World of Schemes, Swindles, and Shady Deals" (Wiley). He's also the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine and the co-founder of the Consumer Travel Alliance, a nonprofit organization that advocates for travelers. Read more tips on his blog, elliott.org or e-mail him at chris@elliott.org. Christopher Elliott receives a great deal of reader mail, and though he answers them as quickly as possible, your story may not be published for several months because of a backlog of cases.


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Friday, December 9, 2011

When in New Glarus, drink New Glarus beer

NEW GLARUS, Wis. — In this south-central Wisconsin town best known for its namesake brewery, I figured there must be a downtown bar dedicated to late-night sipping of the brew that makes this place a must-stop for Midwestern beer lovers.

There wasn't such a place. There were such places.

In this town of 2,200, all 12 bars — from the pizza place to the Swiss restaurant to the bowling alley — serve New Glarus beer. Most serve it on draft, if not several drafts. What is not on tap is usually in bottles.

Such devotion allows New Glarus Brewing, perched on a hill above town, to be open from just 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. The rest of the time, the entire town becomes the brewery's pub. Since Deborah Carey started the brewery in 1993, New Glarus has become, without doubt, a town that loves its beer.

"We're very proud of what Deb has done," said Susie Weiss, director of the town's chamber of commerce. "When we have Polkafest or Oktoberfest, we only serve New Glarus beer. The only way to have another beer is to go into a bar and carry it out."

A night in New Glarus isn't long enough to hit all the bars or drink all the beer, but one Friday night, my drinking companion and I did our best.

After checking in at the Swiss Aire Motel (cheap, clean and simple personified), we shook off our 21/2-hour drive by strolling to the farthest bar we could find, Flannery's Wilhelm Tell Club, which, in true small-town fashion, was less than a mile away. In any other town, a bar like Flannery's would probably offer six lousy-to-fine draft beers whose identities you could guess without looking at the taps.

But Flannery's only offered two such beers — Coors Light and Stella Artois — alongside four New Glarus brews: Staghorn (an Oktoberfest), Totally Naked (a light lager), Fat Squirrel (a nut brown ale) and Spotted Cow (a farmhouse ale that is the brewery's staple).

Amid a crowd celebrating the start of the weekend, the bartender gladly poured us a short sample of each. For the full pint, I chose Fat Squirrel for its hearty, roasted balance; my companion picked Spotted Cow. I had sipped both those beers many times, but at Flannery's they came alive. Both were fresher and livelier than I knew they could be, especially the Spotted Cow. Out of Flannery's tap, Spotted Cow was a lesson on drinking locally: refreshing, earthy and bright.

Next we were off to Ott Haus, which might be a play on "outhouse," but it is also the name of the family that owns the bar. Unlike family-friendly Flannery's, Ott Haus is the kind of place where locals raise beers deep into the evening. We eyeballed the eight New Glarus bottles lined up beside the bar.

I chose the Black Top black India pale ale, the well-hopped seasonal at the time, and my companion chose Dancing Man, a surprisingly hearty wheat beer thick with banana and spice.

Rather than a second round at Ott Haus, we headed over to Glarner Stube, which is roundly considered the best restaurant in town. Its name translates to "The Living Room of New Glarus," and for good reason. The menu is full of savory Swiss dishes like Schublig ("mild spiced beef sausage … sure to please a true sausage lover"), Geschnetzelets ("tender veal slices sauteed with white wine, cream and mushrooms") and Roesti (potatoes fried with Swiss cheese).

With eight taps, Glarner Stube is home to one of the most comprehensive New Glarus draft lists in town. That night, the offerings included rarities like Chocolate Abbey (a light-bodied beer that walks a deft line between chocolaty and crisp) and Cranbic (a refreshing, light pink beer that's tart and sweet like the fruit from which it is derived).

Squeezing ourselves in at the wood bar bustling with locals and tourists, we ordered one of each. We also never enjoyed a 45-minute wait more. We downed our beers and then kept exploring: a Moon Man, New Glarus' crisp pale ale for me, and the Staghorn Oktoberfest for my drinking partner. Between us, we were up to nine New Glarus beers on the evening without ever setting foot in the brewery (though we got there the next day).

For my dinner of three large, gravy-covered Swiss meatballs, I went back to Chocolate Abbey to pair with the succulent meat. My co-pilot opted for the Fat Squirrel with her plate of tender scallops in a bright red pepper sauce.

Stuffed with beer and Swiss food, we figured a little activity was necessary to down one more New Glarus beer. In Wisconsin, of course, that means bowling.

We walked to Swiss Lanes, an alley stuck gloriously in the 1950s but updated just enough to offer one New Glarus beer on draft: Spotted Cow. We ordered a pint each, got our shoes, grabbed a lane and clinked glasses. Whether we were toasting New Glarus the beer or New Glarus the town, I'm not sure.

If you go

Just south of Madison, Wis., New Glarus is a 21/2- to 3-hour drive northwest of Chicago. Known for its Swiss charm (and beer), the town does brisk tourism business, especially during warmer months and festivals, so it's worth getting a room in advance. One of the great advantages of New Glarus is that almost everything is walkable.

There are several types of accommodations, including large hotels like Chalet Landhaus (608-527-5234, 801 Wisconsin Highway 69, chaletlandhaus.com simple motels like Swiss Aire (608-527-2138, 1200 Highway 69, swissaire.com and rental houses and cabins.

No visit is complete without eating Swiss food at Glarner Stube (608-527-2216, 518 First St., glarnerstube.com which has eight drafts dedicated to New Glarus beer. Other spots to sample the local brew include Flannery's Wilhelm Tell Club (608-527-2618, 114 Second St., flannerysnewglarus.com Ott Haus (608-527-2218, 406 Second St.) and Sportsman's Bar and Grill (608-527-2225, 506 First St.). For bowling, there's Swiss Lanes (608-527-2414; 1019 Highway 69). If you want to get close to nature, check out New Glarus Woods State Park (608-527-2335, W5446 County Highway NN), which has more than seven miles of trails.

Finally, be sure to visit the New Glarus brewery (608-527-5850, 2400 Highway 69, newglarusbrewing.com. Perched on a hill above town, it's part of a relaxing, pastoral scene that is perfect for sipping beer and boasts some varieties you probably can't find elsewhere. Don't miss the self-guided tour (do it with a beer in hand), and be sure to browse the ground-level shop that sells whatever New Glarus beer is available at the moment.

For more information, visit swisstown.com.

jbnoel@tribune.com


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A Hyatt boutique

While nowhere as big as its local Hyatt brethren, this upscale boutique hotel oozes cool the moment you step into its dark, mahogany-toned lobby highlighted by an impressive art collection (the "Piazza del Duomo Milan" hanging near the front desk is the original).

King guest rooms offer picturesque views of Lake Michigan to the east and the city to the west. But the room's true beauty lies in the bathroom, which sports an oversized tub, walk-in shower and privacy door that opens into the bedroom and its cityscape.

Even greater are the views from NoMI, the hotel's Michelin-rated seventh-floor restaurant, which offers both eye-pleasing aesthetics, courtesy of its Dale Chihuly chandeliers, and sumptuous tastes from its globally inspired menu.

One added feature: special room filtration for hypo-allergenic and smoking rooms.

Park Hyatt Chicago

Neighborhood: Gold Coast

800 N. Michigan Ave.

Chicago, IL 60611

312-335-1234

parkchicago.hyatt.com

Getting there

Cross streets: Chicago and Michigan

Public transportation: CTA bus: 66-Chicago, 145-Wilson/Michigan Express, 146-Marine/Michigan Exp.; Red Line "L" stop: Chicago

Parking: Self and valet

Wheelchair access

The basics

Prices start at $395 excluding taxes.

Floors: 18

Rooms: 198

Hotel amenities: Ballrooms (one), meeting rooms (six), restaurant and bars/lounges (one), 24-hour business center, 24-hour fitness center, pool, whirlpool, sauna, steam room

Room amenities: Flat-screen television, work desk, mini-bar, coffee maker, in-room safe

Features: Room service, turndown service, pets allowed, Wi-Fi complimentary, shopping nearby


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NFL star Lance Briggs unwinds in cozy Costa Rica

NFL linebacker Lance Briggs has always had a love for comic books, and creating his own has been a dream come true for the 31-year-old football player. "Seraph," created by Briggs and co-written with Phil Hester, is one of eight titles in the Top Cow and Image Comics Pilot Season Competition. Throughout December, fans may vote for their favorite title at Topcow.com. "Vote as often as you like," said Briggs, who lives in Scottsdale, Ariz., when not playing in Chicago with the Bears. "Just like when you vote for the Pro Bowl."

Q: What is your favorite vacation destination?

A: At the end of the year, I want to go some place warm. There's nothing like going to Costa Rica, where it's beautiful and you get more bang for the buck. We went zip-lining and stayed at this cool little place off the beach. I went to sleep listening to the waves. That, for me, is a vacation paradise.

Q: Have you ever roughed it and gone backpacking?

A: Yes. In 2006, I backpacked around Europe and stayed in hostels. I went to Rome, Venice and Paris. It was a lot of fun. I took a trip to London last year and also went to Ireland. I just spent hours in a pub with some of the locals who were talking about the history of their country and the United States and England and how it all tied together. I didn't backpack on that trip though.

Q: Do people overseas give you a hard time about playing the wrong kind of football?

A: (He laughed.) It depends on where you are. If you go to the Bahamas, you're going to see a lot of football fans. But you're not going to find too many people who're interested in American football in England. When I was in Costa Rica, there was an international soccer match, and one of the teams was from Africa, and they got a lot of attention. No one knew who I was or cared that I played football. Soccer was the main thing. It's kind of nice.

Q: Where are your favorite weekend getaways?

A: Miami's always nice. Going back home to Sacramento and Elk Grove, Calif., is fun. And I love taking a nice road trip because you can find a lot of peace.

Q: What are some of your favorite cities?

A: In Europe, London and Venice are right up there; in the United States, Miami, Scottsdale, Chicago, New York, Los Angeles and San Diego.

Q: Where have you visited where you didn't feel particularly welcome?

A: People in Paris were pretty unfriendly, which was kind of surprising because people were so nice in other places — Amsterdam, Rome, London. Maybe we just ran into the wrong folks in France. I don't hold a grudge though. I don't speak French, so I'm sure that was part of it. I speak a little Spanish, so that helps when I visit Costa Rica.

Q: What have you learned from traveling?

A: I've visited quite a few places where the people aren't as concerned about material things, like a lot of Americans are, and they lead kind of a simple but extremely fulfilling life. And they're happy. I have a lot of respect for that.

For more from the reporter, visit jaehakim.com.


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Ski resorts around the world use artist's hand-painted panoramas in their trail maps

LOVELAND, Colo. (AP) — If you've ever gone skiing at an unfamiliar resort without getting lost, chances are you have James Niehues to thank.

Niehues, 65, is the man behind the trail map. His hand-painted panoramas have been reproduced into millions of pocket-sized maps handed out by ski resorts in North America, Japan, Korea, China, New Zealand, Australia, Chile and Serbia.

"His trail maps are as much a part of the sport as snow," said Greg Ditrinco, executive editor of Ski Magazine.

That's high praise for a fellow whose formal art training consisted of a "learn to draw" mail-order course, taken in ninth grade while home sick from school.

Niehues always wanted to find a job that "had a little art." After the Army, he worked as an offset pressman, an ad layout artist and a designer before contacting Bill Brown, who painted the majority of the ski maps in the 1970s and 1980s.

Niehues went to Brown looking for some encouragement, but left with a commission. Brown was moving away from maps and into video, and asked Niehues to take over painting an inset for a Winter Park, Colo., trail map.

From his start in 1987 until today, Niehues has painted about 300 panoramas, mostly of ski resorts, but also of golf courses, hiking trails, resort property and tourist regions.

His style is distinctive. He paints from an aerial perspective, distorted if necessary to bring a labyrinth of runs and mountain faces into a single plane.

"That's why I've lasted so long doing what I do," explained Niehues. "Every ski slope is a puzzle to me; to turn all those slopes so you can get the best view. "

Niehues works out of a well-organized basement studio in the modest house he shares in Loveland, Colo., with his wife, Dora, who handles the business end of things.

To craft a map, Niehues researches his subject, checking satellite images on Google Earth, existing maps, blueprints and photographs. Then, whenever possible, he visits the resort, taking photographs from the air while being flown over at various altitudes.

"By the time I get down from the flight I know what perspective I can get to represent the mountain," he said. If he can't make the flight personally, he asks the resort to supply aerial photographs.

Niehues starts by providing the client with a couple of small sketches, followed by a large pencil on vellum drawing. The sketch time can take from a day to a week, depending on the size of the resort.

Once he gets the client's approval, he begins painting in gouache, an opaque watercolor, on a 30-by-40 inch prepared illustration board. This method allows him to lift the color and update sections as resorts change over the years.

Small ski areas might require three days of painting, while large resorts require 10, depending on the number of trees. Regional representations can take up to three weeks.

Niehues licenses the image to the client, but he maintains the copyright. His most lucrative job was $13,500 for a regional map, six years ago.

"If there were two really good artists in this business, we'd both starve," he said.

Niehues will sketch one resort while painting another, but he only paints one at a time.

"I tried doing several at a time in my early career. It was OK but they would end up looking similar and I didn't like that," he explained.


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Monday, November 28, 2011

A grand place on the North Shore of Lake Superior

GRAND MARAIS, Minn. — Sandwiched between the magnificence of Lake Superior and the Sawtooth Mountains, Grand Marais seems ho-hum. But don't let its disheveled downtown deceive. This is one of the best bases for exploring the North Shore. Stay in a hotel overlooking the lake, stroll to a gourmet dinner, shop at an art gallery or a classic five-and-dime, and explore the outdoors. The town may not have the charm of Lutsen's clapboard lodge or the flash of Naniboujou Lodge's painted dining room, but in the end it wows as much as the surrounding scenery.

THE BASICS:

Tucked against Lake Superior, Grand Marais, population 1,351, was once a sleepy fishing village. All that's changed, in part because it occupies one of the most scenic spots along the Arrowhead. At the edge of town, a windblown spit of land juts out into the lake, helping to form a big bay and a calm harbor, so the town looks embraced by Superior.

Get tourist information at http://www.grandmarais.com.

WHAT TO DO:

The Gunflint Trail — which cuts inland to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area and where moose sometimes wander onto the road — begins its winding way in Grand Marais, but you don't really need to drive along that road to feel lost among the elements. Instead, take a walk along the bay beach to Artists' Point, the peninsula of rock and pine trees that juts out into Superior. It's the locals' go-to hike.

If you want more miles, not to mention views, of the lake, head just outside of town to Pincushion Mountain Trail System (www.pincushion trails.org). Or pop onto the Superior Hiking Trail (www.shta .org) from a number of entry points near Grand Marais.

Perhaps you'd rather hike from store to store downtown. The Sivertson Gallery (www.sivertson.com) offers warm tea for sipping while browsing its collection of works from Inuit, Alaskan and regional artists. The locally made jewelry is nice eye candy, too.

Joynes Ben Franklin Department Store can hook you up with everything from Uggs and Carhartts to Barbie dolls and Norwegian sweaters (joynesbenfranklin.com).

With its diminutive size and purple shutters next to the beach, Drury Lane Books looks like a fairytale house (www.drurylanebooks.com). That's appropriate given its small but spellbinding collection of books for children and adults.

Around the harbor bend from downtown is the North House Folk School, a collection of clapboard buildings where artisans preserve northern crafts by teaching hands-on classes (www.northhouse.org). Subjects include knitting, kayak-making and surprises such as "deer processing for carnivorous locavores." Visitors are welcome to explore the campus and stop by the gift shop.

HIDDEN TREASURE:

If you're in need of gear — or inspiration — check out Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply (www.stoneharborws.com) on the bay. The hot spot for outdoor sports opened in June 2010 and has been selling and renting essential supplies — and some unusual cool outdoor toys — ever since.

In the summer, there are kayaks, canoes and paddleboards. But when snow flies, this place becomes the cutting edge of winter fun. You can rent the usual cross-country skis and snowshoes. But you can also rent — or buy — Wintergreen clothing (beyond warm and pricey to own), Snowtrekker winter tents and the wood-burning stoves to keep them cozy, and Marquette skis, a sort of ski-snowshoe hybrid that lets you hike up a snowy trail and ski down the other side. Want some tips for your first time? Snow Harbor offers guided outings.

The place also sells nordic skates, which are specialized blades that attach to cross-country ski boots and are made for gliding over the bumps and cracks of frozen rivers and lakes. It's your route to explore the Boundary Waters by skate.

WHERE TO EAT:

Judi Barsness not only cooks exceptional meals at her sophisticated harborside restaurant, Chez Jude, she also teaches others how to do the same by offering cooking classes (www.chezjude.com; closed in November and April). At Crooked Spoon Cafe, inventive, delicious dinners include Lake Superior fish with cucumber-corn relish (www.crooked spooncafe.com; closed after today until Dec. 27). For live music and chili with a micro-brew beer, head to Gun Flint Tavern (www.gunflinttavern.com). Breakfasts are divine at the Pie Place (www.northshorepieplace.com); don't miss the maple sausage.

WHERE TO SLEEP:

Only in Grand Marais' website (www.grandmarais.com) offers links to a variety of lodging options, from cabins to B&Bs. I've enjoyed East Bay Suites, with luxury units that have sleek kitchens, stone fireplaces and expansive views of the lake just beyond the balcony (www.eastbaysuites.com).

GETTING THERE:

Grand Marais is northeast of Duluth, Minn., on Lake Superior, along Hwy. 61. The drive from the Minneapolis/ St. Paul takes about 4 12/2 hours.


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Stretching your miles isn't easy

Airlines and their partners, especially co-branded credit cards, lavish miles on you these days. The challenge isn't accumulating miles; it's in finding ways to use them. And getting full value can be tough.

This biggest barrier — this shouldn't be a surprise to anyone — is that scoring a frequent-flier seat, at the low or "saver" mileage value, where and when you want it is a challenge. IdeaWorks statistics show overall success ranges from a decent 50 to 60 percent for American, Continental and United to a dismal 25 percent or so for Delta and US Airways.

The situation is even worse in business class, said AlphaFlightGuru's Tim Gibson. He and I agree that the best use of frequent-flier miles is for international trips in business class, and here, he said, a typical traveler's initial success rate is less than 10 percent. His company (alphaflightguru.com) specializes in helping business travelers get the most from their miles, and he said his company ultimately can "help 80 percent of the people." But his agents really have to work at it, sometimes mixing and matching airlines within alliances or even using different alliances.

The strategy with the best odds of success, Gibson noted, is to wait to confirm seats until three to seven days before departure. That's the time when airlines finally decide how many seats they really aren't going to sell and release them for frequent fliers. Even when clients have to set firm travel dates well in advance, AlphaFlightGuru helps them by providing highly discounted consolidator tickets when the mileage awards don't become available.

My own experiences confirm Gibson's view, though I've often found even more trouble. Service at my home airport (Medford, Ore.) is almost entirely on regional airlines, so just about anywhere I want to fly requires at least one connection. Getting seats on a single flight is tough enough; getting seats on a decent connection is almost impossible. Right now, for example, Delta's online booking system shows no one-week trips on any dates through June from Medford to Paris at the lowest award level, in economy or business class.

Why is international business class the best use of miles? Because those awards give you the biggest return. Even at a sale price, a round-trip business-class ticket to Europe or Asia is likely to cost somewhere around $5,000. On most lines, that trip would require around 100,000 miles for a "saver" award, so your frequent-flier credit theoretically is worth about 5 cents a mile. By contrast, using 50,000 miles for an economy international ticket you could buy at a sale fare of $750 makes the miles worth a cent and a half. And at the other end of the scale, these days a long-haul domestic coach ticket generally costs less than $500, so if you can score a seat at the typical 25,000 miles, your credit is worth 2 cents a mile or less.

Of course, when you're trying to value your miles realistically, you have to apply a big discount factor to compensate for the difficulty in finding seats. "Get almost any seat" awards generally require at least twice the "saver" requirement — often more — which automatically devalues your miles by 50 percent.

How about using your miles for nontravel purchases, as some airlines now urge? The reason is simple: You realize even less value than using your miles for travel. In most of the programs I've examined, the purchase value is about a half-cent a mile, and I've never seen a deal valuing credit as high as even 1 cent a mile.

Given the problems of scoring seats, I believe that if you aren't interested in overseas business class, you're better off accumulating miles through one of those "bank buys a ticket" credit cards programs or even a straight cash-back card. These days, quite a few cards average around 2 cents for each dollar you charge, and that's usually enough to buy coach tickets without worrying about seat limitations.


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Pick the right international hub

If you're planning an overseas trip this spring or summer, you may well have to change planes at an airline "hub" somewhere. And the choice of where to change can have a big impact on how smooth your trip will be. Here are my suggestions for hubbing.

The best hub is no hub. If you can find a nonstop flight schedule at a reasonable fare, take it, even if it means a little extra driving to a bigger airport at either end. No matter how smooth the process, compared with a nonstop, changing planes adds a minimum of two hours to your flight time and more likely four or five hours. Changing planes also increases your chances of delay, missed connections, misdirected baggage, and other such ills.

These days, you can find plenty of nonstops for most big U.S. cities to most big European and Asia cities, and some nonstops from medium-sized U.S. cities to big overseas cities or from big U.S. cities to medium-size overseas spots. And the chances of finding nonstops will increase as airlines finally start taking delivery of the new 787s, which are designed for long-haul routes with insufficient traffic to support the biggest planes.

Hub to cut costs. Even on routes with nonstops, however, you can sometimes find a lower fare on connecting flights. I just received a press release from Finnair, for example, that promotes round-trips from its U.S. gateways to Moscow, via a Helsinki connection, that are about $200 less than round-trips from those same gateways just to Helsinki. For travel next spring, Polish airline LOT is currently pitching connections to a handful of major European cities through Warsaw that undercut nonstops by as much as $400. These cases illustrate a common situation on long-haul routes. Even though flying you nonstop costs the airline less than making you connect, airlines know that many of you will pay a premium for the convenience of a nonstop. The result: connecting fares that undercut nonstops. You see this quite often on long-haul trips within the U.S. and from the U.S. to Europe. The big airfare search engines are pretty good at posting these deals: On Expedia, for example, the summary box for any trip search often shows lower one-stop fares than nonstop fares.

Choose the most convenient hub. When you have a choice of hubs -- at roughly the same fares -- try to select the most convenient connecting itinerary.

-- Total flight time usually trumps other reasons for choosing a connecting itinerary. And, contrary to what you might think, the shortest distance usually isn't as big an influence as the connecting time. If you're flying from Chicago to Europe, for example, an Atlanta connection may involve more miles than a connection in New York, but a shorter connecting time may offset the mileage difference.

-- Try to avoid hubs with a bad history of delays. According to a recent trade report, the most delay-prone U.S. international connecting hubs are O'Hare, Miami, Newark, JFK, San Francisco, and Baltimore; the best are Charlotte, Houston Bush, Dulles, and Seattle-Tacoma.

-- Overseas, most travelers give high marks to the big Asian airports. In Europe, most travelers I know avoid London and Paris when they can and instead hub through Amsterdam, Munich, or Zurich. Helsinki is apparently an easy hub, as is Reykjavik on flights to/from Northern Europe. Try to avoid hubs with multiple and separated terminal buildings, especially if you have to connect between two different airlines. You may have to leave and re-enter security.

-- Avoid connecting at a U.S. hub on an inbound international itinerary. Typically, you have to claim your baggage, go through customs, leave the security area and re-enter the check-in system -- baggage and security. By contrast, most big international hubs outside the U.S. let connecting travelers remain in "transit" status without having to check in all over again.

Clearly, you often have limited choice of hubs. In those cases, just make sure you leave enough connecting time to compensate for the occasional delay or glitch.

Send e-mail to Ed Perkins at eperkins@mind.net. Perkins' new book for small business and independent professionals, "Business Travel When It's Your Money," is now available through www.mybusinesstravel.com or www.amazon.com


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Australia to create world's largest marine reserve in Coral Sea

CANBERRA, Australia (AP) — Australia says it will create the world's largest marine reserve in the Coral Sea.

The Environment Ministry says the area has shallow reefs that support tropical ecosystems with sharks, coral, sponges and many fish species. The proposal includes seas beyond the already protected Great Barrier Reef Marine Park off northeast Australia.

The reserve would cover almost 400,000 square miles (nearly 1 million square kilometers).

Fishing would be allowed in parts of the reserve. Some conservationists raised concern such exceptions would make management of the reserve more difficult.

The proposal announced in a ministry statement Friday is now open for a 90-day comment period.


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Help! My river cruise transfers are sunk

Q: My wife and I are booked on a Viking River Cruise. We plan to go from Washington to Moscow three days early, take the river cruise to St. Petersburg and remain there for three days before going on to a four-day stopover in Paris en route home. It is because of the diversions and deviation that Viking is attempting to set aside its responsibility to comply with what its literature apparently states.

The problem: Viking does not want to be responsible for the ground transfers in Moscow and St. Petersburg, despite the fact that we have purchased a Viking Air Package.

At the outset -- this trip was booked nearly a year ago -- Viking summarily denied any responsibility for transfers and stated that we must make transfer arrangements on our own, even though the cruise line's literature states that if air is not purchased from Viking, transfers may be purchased separately.

Furthermore, it has been difficult to get anyone on the phone at Viking at a level to discuss the matter further. Shouldn't Viking's literature mean what it says? -- Robert Brown, Silver Spring, Md.

A: If Viking includes ground transfers with its air packages, then you should have received them. But I'm not sure if it explicitly promises the transfers.

At the time you made your purchase (the language has since been modified, but I'll get to that in a moment) the promotional copy might have left you with the impression that transfers were included. But anyone with a working knowledge of the cruise industry, like a competent travel agent, would have known that's not necessarily the case.

A closer reading of Viking's terms would have revealed that transfers do not apply on non-embarkation days or dates that don't coincide with tour dates. Nor do they apply to non-Viking-related hotels, such as the properties you planned to visit in Russia.

You had two things in your favor: First, the vagueness of the promotional language, and second, the apparent difficulty you had getting a clear answer to your request.

I think this could have been avoided by reading Viking's terms closely or working with a qualified travel agent, who could have advised you about the transfers. In reviewing your correspondence, I see you spent a fair amount of time on the phone, too. When dealing with this type of request, it's usually best to make your request in writing. That way, you'll have a paper trail if there's ever any disagreement with the company.

I contacted Viking on your behalf. In addition to taking care of your transfers as "an exception" to its policy, a spokeswoman told me Viking is reviewing its terms and conditions as it applies to transfers and will "update it accordingly to ensure the verbiage is as clear as possible."

Christopher Elliott is the author of "Scammed: How to Save Your Money and Find Better Service in a World of Schemes, Swindles, and Shady Deals" (Wiley). He's also the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine and the co-founder of the Consumer Travel Alliance, a nonprofit organization that advocates for travelers. Read more tips on his blog, elliott.org or e-mail him at chris@elliott.org. Christopher Elliott receives a great deal of reader mail, and though he answers them as quickly as possible, your story may not be published for several months because of a backlog of cases.


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Thursday, November 3, 2011

First ladies gowns go off view for 3 weeks as Smithsonian prepares new exhibit at museum

WASHINGTON (AP) — The Smithsonian is taking the first ladies' gowns off display for about three weeks as the National Museum of American History prepares a new home for the popular dresses in Washington.

The "First Ladies at the Smithsonian" exhibit is closed beginning Tuesday. A new exhibit, "The First Ladies," opens Nov. 19 in a new gallery.

A spokeswoman says the new gallery will feature more than 24 gowns, including those of Michelle Obama, Barbara Bush, Nancy Reagan and Jacqueline Kennedy. Part of the exhibit looks at how first ladies have shaped their roles as the role of women in society has changed.

The museum is preparing to renovate its west wing with new permanent exhibits on the presidency, first ladies and other political topics. Construction is scheduled to begin next year.


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9-foot statue of Reagan to be unveiled at airport; travelers warned of delays during ceremony

ARLINGTON, Va. (AP) — A 9-foot-tall statue honoring Ronald Reagan will be unveiled at the airport that now bears his name.

The airport just outside the nation's capital has borne Reagan's name since 1998, following the passage of Congressional legislation that was opposed by some who were not enamored of Reagan's legacy.

Airport officials are warning travelers that Tuesday's unveiling ceremony could cause traffic delays outside the airport. Between 11 a.m. and noon, car traffic heading for the airport's departures and arrivals ramps will be reduced from four lanes to one and will then be detoured around the event site.

The airport suggests using Metro or the airport's parking garages rather than driving up to the terminals between 11 a.m. and noon.


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Disney's a class act, so what went wrong?

We recently purchased 350 points in Disney Vacation Club, Disney's time-share program. New members of Disney Vacation Club are given help with their first reservation, and salespeople can go into Disney's inventory, if necessary, to get a better selection.

About six weeks ago our salesperson promised to help us with our second reservation as soon as we had our dates decided, because we had booked our first reservation on our own.

When we called, we found out he is on indefinite medical leave and were directed to speak with another salesperson about the reservation. The second salesperson said she couldn't help because Disney offers to help only on the first reservation.

We tried to appeal to a supervisor, but she also refused to help. And her tone on the phone was not what one expects of a Disney representative — very negative and condescending. It is not our fault that our salesperson is on medical leave, and we feel Disney should honor what he told us. The longer they delay, the less chance any villas will be available. Can you help us get that magic that we expected from Disney?

— David Willard, Newtown, Pa.

A: Disney's policy may be to give priority to first-time reservations, but it is not something that is openly promoted, as far as I can tell. Nonetheless, if your time-share salesman promised you could use your first-reservation credit on your second reservation, it's something Disney should make good on.

I've attended the Disney Vacation Club presentation here in Orlando, and it's a pretty impressive program. Disney offers a lot of properties, and the rates were reasonable enough that I even considered buying in. Why didn't I? Like a lot of Americans, I don't have nearly enough vacation time to use it.

The problem with the agreement you had with your first sales representative is that it was verbal. Of course, you had no way of knowing that he would go on indefinite medical leave just when you were trying to make your reservation, but what happened to you underscores the importance of getting absolutely everything in writing.

Even a brief email from Disney, agreeing to help you with the second reservation, would have prevented this from taking away the magic of your vacation. If you didn't have something in writing, you could have started a paper trail — or in your case, an email trail — with your request. Disney would have been compelled to respond to you by email, and it may have answered differently (and almost certainly without the attitude you got from the supervisor).

I think the Vacation Club staff you dealt with could have done better, from finding a new salesperson who had been properly briefed on your needs to ensuring that all of the promises he made to you were being kept, even if the promises weren't necessarily in line with company policy. And, of course, there's no excuse for being unpleasant with a customer — ever.

I contacted Disney Vacation Club on your behalf. A representative called you and helped you make a reservation at the time-share you wanted.

Christopher Elliott is the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine and a co-founder of the Consumer Travel Alliance, a nonprofit organization that advocates for travelers. Read more tips on his blog, elliott.org, or e-mail him at chris@elliott.org.


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Opaque sites -- work sometime, but not always

On my current trip, I found that opaque sites often provide the best hotel and rental car prices, but not always. And no matter how often I travel, I almost always find some surprises. My trip involved a hectic different-place-every-night itinerary, so I had plenty of tries.

HOTELS. Boston was my first overnight hotel stop, and the opaque sites failed me completely. Hotwire's lowest price for any of the districts I could use started at more than $300 a night, and I had no intention of paying $300 a night for a hotel room in Boston.

For my Priceline bids, I started with the new site, www.thebiddingtraveler.com, which suggested a bid of $180 would likely be successful. But even when I bid up into the mid-$200s -- which would add up to more than $300 after taxes and fees -- those bids were all refused.

My guess is that something big was happening in Boston that night, because the opaque sites should have done much better. My fallback position? A prosaic AARP rate well under $200 at a hotel outside the districts I preferred but close enough to work.

For my stop near Charlotte airport, Priceline worked flawlessly, and I got a $95 a night room for $80. But Priceline didn't give me a good enough deal at my final stop, Warrenton Va., to offset the inflexibility, so I went with the measly 10 percent AARP discount. This time, Priceline scored on only one of three, and Hotwire didn't score at all. But that's not typical of my experience, which has generally been good with both.

RENTAL CARS. I needed two car rentals for this trip: for two days in Charlotte, picking up and returning at the airport, and for two days in the Washington area, picking up at Baltimore and returning to Dulles. For direct comparisons, I checked an intermediate size car -- with Avis, where prices were shown.

For the Charlotte rental, Priceline quoted $79 on its full-disclosure page, Avis quoted an AARP rate of $82, Hotwire's best opaque quote was $102, and the Avis no-discount price was $118. I tried a blind bid on Priceline that would have given a final price about $4 a night below its open price, which was refused. I finally went with the Avis AARP rate largely because of the superior liability coverage provided on the AARP program. But Priceline's open rate was very good.

For the Washington area rental, Hotwire quoted an opaque rate of $54, the AARP rate on Avis was $66, Priceline's open rate was $67, and the Avis no-discount rate was $73. Here, I went with Hotwire; Alamo provided the car.

Overall, I found several surprises in the car process:

-- Hotwire's high price in Charlotte was a puzzler -- about $20 higher than Avis/AARP and Priceline's full-disclosure price.

-- Also in Charlotte, when I tried the blind bid (unsuccessfully) on Priceline, its suggested bid price that stood a "very good chance" of acceptance was actually $4 a day higher than its full-disclosure price. Go figure that one.

-- The rental companies' CDW (collision damage waiver) charges are out of control. Avis wanted $27.99 a day -- a rate that was actually higher than the supposed pre-tax and pre-fee base rate.

-- New (to me) was the fact that Hotwire and Priceline now offer third-party primary collision coverage for $9 to $11 a day. I hadn't rented in more than two years and this one had eluded my attention. And it illuminates the degree to which the rental companies' CDW is inflated. You can bet that those third-party insurance companies are not losing money on their $9 to $11 coverage rates, so about two-thirds of the rental companies' daily CDW charges are pure gravy. No wonder they push it so hard.

For collision coverage, I still recommend relying on your credit card if you have one that offers the coverage, If not, the third-party coverages look a lot better than the rental companies' fat rates.

Send e-mail to Ed Perkins at eperkins@mind.net. Perkins' new book for small business and independent professionals, "Business Travel When It's Your Money," is now available through www.mybusinesstravel.com or www.amazon.com


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Kennedy Space Center in Fla. opens Vehicle Assembly Building to tours for 1st time since '78

CAPE CANAVERAL, Fla. (AP) — Heads up, space fans.

Visitors to NASA's Kennedy Space Center now have the opportunity to see inside the colossal Vehicle Assembly Building, off-limits throughout the 30-year shuttle program.

Public bus tours last stopped at the VAB in 1978. They're resuming Nov. 1. The cost is an extra $25 per adult and $19 per child — on top of the usual admission charge.

The 525-foot-tall VAB was built to hold the Saturn V rocket that sent men to the moon in the late 1960s and early 1970s. It's where every space shuttle was attached to its external fuel tank and booster rockets, before flight.

Atlantis closed out the shuttle program in July, with the 135th mission.

NASA officials stress that the VAB tour stop is temporary — it will cease when the VAB is used once again to stack rockets for launch. The space agency is aiming to send astronauts to an asteroid and Mars in the decades ahead.


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Saturday, October 29, 2011

NYC museumgoers descend 3-story slide, float in pool (swimsuit optional)

NEW YORK (AP) — "Museum visit" takes on a whole new meaning at the New Museum in New York, where visitors can ride a three-story slide that winds through the building or jump into a salty pool — in the buff — for an out-of-body experience.

The "Experience" exhibit features the creations of German artist Carsten Holler. It opened Wednesday and runs through Jan. 15, allowing visitors to explore different sensations through Holler's odd interactive works of art.

The exhibit may be a first for museumgoers and for a museum. Visitors are asked to sign a waiver and are given helmets and elbow pads for the slide.

Slides are Holler's signature installations, and the 102-foot (30-meter) chute at the New Museum is the only one he has created that cuts through a building's interior.

The slide is "a non-surprising environment, completely predictable," Holler says. "Yet when you put yourself in it, you have to let go, losing control. You have no means of mastering the situation.

"I'm proposing to look at the world, at what other experiences you can have, how you can experience your whole outside environment outside your body," Holler says.

At a Tuesday preview, squeals and laughter came from visitors shooting out of the slide.

"Viewing the third and second floors while descending past in a slide was perhaps the most innovative way I have ever experienced an art exhibit," said Leslie Grandy, a human resources professional from Diamond Bar, California.

Other playful pieces in the exhibit include a giant foam dolphin and hippopotamus; monumental, brightly painted mushroom sculptures; and a slowly turning Mirror Carousel with flashing lights.

Six people can fit in the 2-foot (0.6-meter) "Psycho Tank." The pool sits off the ground in a tent-like structure, affording privacy. Visitors are handed spa-like bathrobes, slippers and towels before disrobing or donning their own bathing suits.

Roni Weiss, 28, a social media consultant from Harlem, got into the pool with three other people.

"For me, it was more the naked thing than floating," Weiss said. "It was interesting to have conversations with other naked people."

The entire exhibit can be experienced through upside-down goggles. But be forewarned: It can be dizzying.


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Friday, October 28, 2011

Man has been living at Vancouver Airport since Aug. 17

VANCOUVER, British Columbia (AP) — It's like the movie "The Terminal," only it's real. A man has been living in the Vancouver airport since Aug. 17 — at the airport's invitation.

"I can't leave. I'm stuck here," Jaeger Mah explained to an airport volunteer who invited him to a party outside the airport Nov. 3.

Since the party happens to fall on the last of Mah's 80 days at the airport, he added, "Perhaps I could come after midnight."

Mah, 29, embarked on his unusual sojourn as the winner of a contest sponsored by the airport to mark its 80th year. The airport invited anyone willing to living there to submit a video application, and five of the 160 entries were posted online for a public vote. Mah, an entrepreneur with a video company and a background in entertainment marketing, dubbed himself "the Anderson Cooper of YVR" and won with 4,128 votes out of thousands cast.

The gig doesn't involve anything close to the discomfort suffered by passengers who've tried to nap in airport seating during a layover. Mah spends his nights at the airport hotel — though he admits to occasional naps in secret terminal spots — and he's got no complaints about the food, either. He's figured out which VIP lounges will feed him and which have the best snacks.

"I'm not sleeping on the benches," Mah says, "but I'm meeting some incredible people."

As he strolls through the terminals in a Hawaiian shirt, shorts and worn hiking boots, it's clear he's become a fixture. Employees wave or shout hello. One stops him at the bottom of the escalators by the domestic baggage carousels and asks why he didn't show up for samosa snacks one day.

"I forgot," he says sheepishly with a boyish grin. All is forgiven.

Airport spokeswoman Rebecca Catley says the goal of the project is to show people what happens behind the check-in counters and security screenings at a big airport.

"A lot of people don't realize what goes on at an airport," she says. "We get a lot of requests for behind-the-scenes tours. We can't do that from a security perspective."

That's where Mah comes in. Armed with a digital video camera, he documents the airport's stories and posts them online. "My process consists of Facebook, tweets and blogs," he said. "You're constantly engaging with your fans. You have to give them what they want to see. I'm pimping myself out big time."

For his 14-hour days as contest winner and late nights spent editing video, he is being paid a per diem rate and a $15,000 fee.

"I want to devote my life to telling stories," he says. "You could call it some kind of journalism."

Mah's adventure brings to mind the 2004 film "The Terminal" where Tom Hanks' character found himself stranded at New York's JFK airport, denied entry to the U.S. but unable to return to his revolution-bound country. The film may have been inspired by the real-life drama of Mehran Karimi Nasseri, an Iranian expat who could not gain entry to other countries and spent years at France's Charles de Gaulle International Airport.

Unlike either Hanks' character or Nasseri, Mah's stay has a definite end date. Still, he says, there were nay-sayers.

"People said 'Don't do it,'" he chuckles. "My dad said, 'If you want to do it, do it.'"

When The Associated Press caught up with Mah on Day 64, he was touring the airport's wildlife control operations. Standing at the edge of a runway with planes taking off, wildlife officer Nick de Jongh taught Mah about the various guns and noisemakers used to scare birds away from planes.

Hoisting a pump-action shotgun to his shoulder, Mah fired off a round. And grinned.

As the wildlife truck rolled past landing jets, Mah got a tweet from a follower who saw pictures of him in the old airport sheriff's cells he described as like being at Alcatraz.


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Cowgirl Museum opening exhibit on Sandra Day O'Connor's childhood

FORT WORTH, Texas (AP) — Sandra Day O'Connor made her mark in history as the first woman to serve on the U.S. Supreme Court, but she's still a hardworking cowgirl at heart, she said Wednesday.

An exhibit about her life opens this week at the National Cowgirl Museum and Hall of Fame in Fort Worth, a tribute to the 30th anniversary of her appointment to the high court.

"It is odd that a cowgirl ended up on the court, isn't it?" she said Wednesday, joking that her 1981 nomination by President Reagan stemmed from his own love of ranching. "Probably because I had grown up on the back of a horse, he had more interest in me than other candidates."

O'Connor, 81, is an El Paso native who spent summers on her family's Arizona ranch that initially didn't have electricity or water. It later had two large windmills providing water from wells underneath.

Before touring the exhibit Wednesday, she said her time on the ranch taught her responsibility and how to solve problems on her own.

"Cowboys don't spend a lot of time telling you things. They just expect you to get things done and done right," O'Connor said. "But it's a great way to grow up."

The exhibit called "The Cowgirl Who Became a Justice: Sandra Day O'Connor" features spurs, chaps and a branding iron from the ranch and photos of O'Connor as a girl. The 3,000-square-foot exhibit also features a section from her time on the Supreme Court, including the 1981 White House press release announcing Reagan's intent to nominate O'Connor, one of her robes as a justice and a photograph from her swearing-in ceremony. She retired in 2006.

After touring the exhibit, which opens Thursday and runs through March, visitors can play iCivics in an adjacent area with about two dozen computers. O'Connor helped develop the web-based computer game to teach students about the government, legal system and federal budget.

In 2002 O'Connor was inducted into the Cowgirl Hall of Fame, which honors women whose pioneer spirit typifies the American West. She is among nearly 200 women inducted since 1975.

Diana Vela, the museum's associate executive director for education and exhibits, said the Cowgirl Museum was humbled to create an exhibit "that honors one of our own." It shows the stark contrast between O'Connor's childhood on the isolated, rural ranch and her being thrust into the national spotlight decades later, Vela said.

As nine women were inducted into the hall of fame at a luncheon later Wednesday, O'Connor said the Cowgirl Museum is serving "a wonderful purpose."


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Dog missing in Tenn. turns up in Mich. 3 months later

ROCHESTER HILLS, Mich. (AP) — Petey the wayward Jack Russell terrier is home.

After three months and hundreds of miles, the dog was reunited Thursday with owner Jim Arrighi in Erin, Tenn.

Arrighi's daughter, Tyanne (TEE-ann) Morrison, said Petey arrived in the care of a Michigan Humane Society volunteer who set out Wednesday from suburban Detroit.

Morrison said her 73-year-old father "actually just cried" when he got the dog back.

Arrighi left Petey in his backyard in July and the dog was gone when he returned home.

A homeowner in Rochester Hills, about 20 miles north of Detroit, saw Petey last week in his backyard and took him to a Humane Society animal care center.

Arrighi was identified as the owner when the dog was scanned for an implanted microchip.


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Winter destination weddings on a budget

Dreaming of a snow-draped destination wedding this winter, but fear it's out of financial reach? With proper planning and savvy shopping, it can be more affordable than you might think. Follow these tips to save without skimping on your magical day.

Activities: By arranging to have your winter destination wedding at a location loaded with amenities and activities options, you're relieved of the stress related to coordinating entertainment for your wedding party. Guests can enjoy the resort's hot tubs and snowshoeing trails for free, and other amenities are there to be experienced at their leisure. Samantha Goldberg, a celebrity event designer in New York City agrees, pointing to the Poconos and Vermont as popular choices. Her top pick for winter wedding favors? Ski lift tickets from your event's venue.

Extras: Many resorts are willing to toss in a few extras if you are booking their venue for your entire function, so it pays to ask the coordinator what they are willing to include. Book your wedding at the Edgewood Tahoe this winter for instance, and your guests will enjoy all house wine, champagne and beer for free during the entire event. Who doesn't love an open bar? Similarly, the Mountain Magnolia Inn in Hot Springs, North Carolina includes breakfast the next morning for your overnight wedding guests.

Decorations: Most destination resorts splurge on elaborate decorations for the winter holidays. This means a little extra greenery with candlelight on the tables could be all you need, depending on where you hold the ceremony. Scenery is also a serious money saver. By booking a venue overlooking something spectacular, your decorating needs are drastically reduced. For example, at Vail Cascade — a resort in Vail, Colorado — winter wedding guests overlook a serene, partially-frozen creek which makes for dramatic photos and adds to the frozen wonderland theme.

Transportation: The resort also offers package deals which include airline tickets for the bride and groom, and other establishments offer similar perks for couples booking destination weddings. Additionally, by scheduling the rehearsal dinner, ceremony and reception all at the same location, you eliminate the expenses of limousines, guest parking and possibly rental cars if the hotel offers a free shuttle service.

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Theriault is the best-selling co-author of the book "10,001 Ways to Live Large on a Small Budget," and founder of TrekHound.com, a website for independent travelers. She also founded TheLessonMachine.com, a website for teachers.


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Saturday, October 22, 2011

Park Service offers more tickets in online lottery for national Christmas tree lighting in DC

WASHINGTON (AP) — The National Park Service is offering more free tickets for this year's national Christmas tree lighting ceremony in Washington than in years past.

This year's lighting is scheduled for Dec. 1 in front of the White House. This year the Park Service will distribute 3,000 tickets for seats and 14,000 standing-room tickets through an online lottery.

The ticket lottery opens at 10 a.m. Eastern time on Nov. 3 and will run through Nov. 7 at 9:59 p.m. Tickets will be mailed to the lottery winners.

The president traditionally lights the tree, along with his family. Performers for the event will be announced in November.

Since 2009, the Park Service has doubled the number of standing-room tickets for the event.

Tickets are required for all who attend.


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Nelson, Canada, in living color

Reporting from Nelson, Canada—

Up in the northwest forest where Washington, Idaho and British Columbia converge, there's a lazy little international border crossing called Nelway, about the size of a gas station.

"Where are you headed?" a Canadian border patrol agent asked when my family rolled up a few months ago, heading north from Washington.

"Nelson," I told him as he began his search of our car.

"It's OK," said the officer, unenthusiastically. "Kinda hippie-ish. Very laid-back."

Not a problem, sir. The town of Nelson, semi-Victorian, substantially bohemian, sportier and more artsy than your average hamlet of 9,700 souls, sits in the Selkirk Mountains of British Columbia, about 30 miles north of the U.S. border. Picture a college town that has misplaced its university.


FOR THE RECORD:
Nelson, Canada: In the Oct. 16 Travel section, an article about Nelson, Canada, misspelled the last name of Nelson resident Ernest Hekkanen as Hekkaman.
It has dramatic leaves in fall, skiing in winter, swimming and boating in summer, hiking and mountain biking much of the year. Thousands of American draft resisters and back-to-the-landers chose this area as a haven 40 years ago, and hundreds are said to remain, but it gets barely a trickle of U.S. tourists.

Just below the town lies the west arm of photogenic Kootenay Lake. Just above town rises Toad Mountain, where the discovery of silver prompted the founding of Nelson about 125 years ago. Nelson's stone and brick Victorians, once the province of off-duty miners and loggers, now house or neighbor eccentric shops, galleries and restaurants. The Sacred Ride (on Baker Street) peddles bikes. Downward Dog (Front Street) offers pet supplies. The Funky Monkey (Front Street) grills burgers. ROAM (Baker Street) promises gear for rivers, oceans and mountains.

Summer may be the busiest season, but "fall is the most beautiful time," said Virginia Wassick, who, with her husband, Duncan, runs the three-room Grand Lakefront Bed & Breakfast in a rambling old house near the lake's edge. In September and October, Wassick said, the guests "come and stay a week or two and sit on the deck, look at the colors and read books. I love the September-October people. They're so laid-back."

Nelson — about 150 miles north of Spokane, Wash., more than 400 miles east of Vancouver, Canada — is too little and isolated to stand as a major destination by itself. But you can fly into Spokane or Castlegar, British Columbia (about 25 miles south of Nelson), and spend a few days driving a 135-mile loop from Nelson past the mountains, lakes, rivers, meadows and towns of Kaslo, New Denver, Silverton and Slocan. Or follow the 280-mile International Selkirk Loop (www.selkirkloop.org), which includes handsome chunks of Idaho and Washington.

For us, Nelson was a three-day respite at the northernmost point of a 1,200-mile road trip that began in Seattle and ended in Portland, Ore. We window-shopped on Baker Street; bought many "Magic Treehouse" volumes in Otter Books for our 7-year-old daughter, Grace; paced the little pier that juts into the lake; took a skiff for a buzz around on the water; and drove across the big orange bridge — which locals call "BOB" because, remember, it's a Big Orange Bridge — toward the postcard views at Pulpit Rock overlook and Kokanee Creek Provincial Park.

With more time, we would have soaked at Ainsworth Hot Springs (about 30 miles northeast) and caught the free ferry at nearby Balfour (a 35-minute ride across the lake to Kootenay Bay). But we did ride an antique streetcar along the Waterfront Pathway to Lakeside Park, where you'll find an organic concession stand (summer only) and busy playground. Downtown, we shared a good but pricey brunch at BiBO, followed by a great (and pricier) dinner at the All Seasons Cafe, Nelson's top restaurant. Uptown, I took a ride on old BNSF railroad track that has been converted into a mountain-biking trail.

One day I drank hemp ale. Another, I ate a hemp cookie. But there were no purchases at the hemp boutique on Ward Street, so no hemp hat trick.

We stayed at the Prestige Resort, a pricey hotel at the water's edge that should be the greatest place in town, given its location. Instead, it felt like an opportunity squandered — a dull, dark building best suited to the housing of Dunder-Mifflin business travelers. Next time we'll look more closely at the New Grand Hotel (more character, lower rates) or a local B&B.

This being Canada, the town has a hockey team and a curling club, both busy from fall through late winter or early spring. The Whitewater Ski Resort, about 20 minutes outside Nelson, is a small operation (three chairlifts, 1,184 skiable acres, no lodgings) that gets big powder — an average of 40 feet of snow per winter. The resort's Fresh Tracks Cafe is a favorite among B.C. foodies, many of whom revere the "Whitewater Cooks" cookbook by former resort chef Shelley Adams.

"I just moved here to retire," Aza Samchuck told me one afternoon as he sat astride a bicycle and watched teenagers leap from a piling into the chilly water. He is 35, Samchuck said, but because he's done well in his profession, he can arrange a few lucrative days of out-of-town work per month, then hang loose in Nelson the rest of the time. Of course, I had to ask his profession.

"I tattoo people," he said.

For a less bohemian, more Victorian Nelson, head to Vernon and Ward streets, where you can nurse a drink inside the stone-faced Hume Hotel (1898) and gaze north to the old ivy-cloaked courthouse (1902) or east to the Touchstones Nelson Museum of Art and History (1902 again). Nearby on Victoria Street, there's the restored Capitol Theatre (1927) and the old jail, now Selkirk College's Kootenay School of the Arts. Near Latimer and Ward streets, there's the big, old red-brick fire hall (1913) and the old brewery (1899), now home to the new Nelson Brewing Co., which specializes in organic ales.


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