Saturday, September 10, 2011

TSA chief, the man behind the airport pat-down, an optimist about everything but terror

WASHINGTON (AP) — Each day, dozens of U.S. intelligence officials crowd around a conference table in a small, windowless room in a government building across the street from a shopping mall in northern Virginia. At the head of the table sits the man who perhaps more than anyone else affects Americans most tangibly in the sprawling fight against terrorism since the 2001 attacks.

John Pistole, who for decades breezed past airport security checkpoints as an FBI agent — is the faceless bane of every air traveler who must remove his belt, endures an intimate pat-down or is instructed to throw away a 6-ounce bottle of shampoo.

Pistole, 53, has among the least-desirable roles in Washington as head of Transportation Security Administration, the government agency that more than others traces its lineage to the terrorist hijackings that killed nearly 3,000 people.

Based on top secret intelligence he sees daily, Pistole, a 26-year FBI veteran, sets the rules for protecting the nation's 457 airports and America's planes, trains, buses and ferries.

Pistole's story is the story of a changed nation, one that has worked feverishly to track down terrorists, fix intelligence problems and try to keep from trampling on privacy while enhancing security.

It was Pistole who, just weeks on the job, called for airport screeners to start using a new security pat-down — one that involved feeling around travelers' genital areas and breasts. It was an unpopular measure, but one Pistole believes offers the best chance of preventing a suicide bomber.

Just Friday, U.S. counterterrorism officials were investigating intelligence about an al-Qaida threat to New York or Washington, possibly involving a car bomb to coincide with the 10th anniversary of the Sept. 11 attacks.

"I'm an optimist in life in all ways other than when it comes to terrorism," Pistole said. "And I think every day that goes by, we're a day closer to the next attack."

___

On Sept. 11, 2001, Pistole was working in the FBI's inspections division, conducting a routine interview with a New York judge. He turned on the television and saw the second plane hit the World Trade Center.

"Well, this changes everything," he remembers thinking.

Pistole, who grew up in the small town of Anderson, Ind., comes from a family of educators. He practiced law before he joined the FBI in 1983. At the time, the bureau had a storied history of putting bank robbers and mobsters in prison. After 9/11, Pistole was tapped to help transform the bureau into one that prevented terrorism.

"We were building the plane while it was flying," said Raymond Holcomb, a former FBI agent and author of the book "Endless Enemies: Inside FBI Counterterrorism."

"John was there at a most critical watershed moment," Holcomb said.

___

Around the same time, the new Transportation Security Administration was struggling to get off the ground. It had to hire thousands of screeners, coordinate with airlines and buy screening technology.

"None of us really knew how to set up lines at airports," said Norman Mineta, the transportation secretary at the time, who was charged with creating this new agency from scratch.

Mineta turned to The Walt Disney Co., an organization familiar with snaking lines and anxious guests.

The past 10 years have been a bumpy road for the TSA and travelers.


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Cannolis, raviolis and 'tude: Arthur Ave. in the Bronx wants to be known as real Little Italy

NEW YORK (AP) — Arthur Avenue in the Bronx is the kind of place where you might be bribed with a cannoli.

Many years ago, my father, a teacher, was begged by a student not to tell his parents he'd been caught fighting. "I'll bring you a box of cannolis every Friday," promised the student, who worked at a pastry shop in this old-school Italian-American enclave.

My dad did not accept the cannolis. But as a kid growing up in nearby suburbs, I often had treats from Arthur Avenue that he brought home. Then one day, I saw Arthur Avenue listed on an iPod app for New York City destinations and decided it was time to get to know the old neighborhood myself, before it morphed into some Disneyland of Italian-Americanness.

I'm happy to report that while Little Italy in downtown Manhattan has shrunk to barely two and a half blocks, what some call the "Real Little Italy" in the Belmont section of the Bronx is thriving, and it's as authentic as ever.

Visitors will readily find dozens of Italian restaurants, bakeries, butchers and produce stands that still sell all the goodies my grandfather remembers from growing up in the Bronx. But it's the mix of the surly and solicitous on this several-block stretch of Arthur Avenue and the intersecting 187th Street that lets you know this is a real community, in which a slight wariness of outsiders can only slowly be scratched away to expose a deeper warmth. Leave to others the affected display of intimacy or token use of ciao: On Arthur Avenue, if someone speaks to you in Italian, it's because he thinks you do. If someone greets you, it's because he knows you.

On a recent visit, as I tagged along with my father and grandparents to see the neighborhood through their eyes, my grandpa grabbed a hunk of meat at Biancardi's and exclaimed, "Pork butt! I haven't seen this in years!" They used to call it tenderloin, explained Sal Biancardi, a third-generation butcher, and it can be hard to find these days. But not here.

My grandfather, Dominick, the son of an Italian immigrant and his Italian-American wife, had grown up in the Bronx, and he and my grandmother raised their kids there. (While my grandmother is the daughter of Russian immigrants, she's an Italian cook, taught by her mother-in-law.) My generation was raised in the suburbs, but even there, when questions like "Where'd ya get the meat?" (or the raviolis, or the manicotti) were asked, the answer was usually "Arthur Avenue."

Dominick, who is 89, recalled that he first went to Teitel Bros., a wholesaler and retailer of Italian products from beans and olive oil to spices and tomatoes, around 1932. He didn't live especially close to Belmont — he remembers taking a streetcar with his mother to get there — but even back then, when the borough was full of Italians, it was the place to go.

In recent years, the area has been getting more attention. NYC & Company, the city's tourism arm, marketed it as part of its "Visit 9 in '09" campaign. The annual Ferragosto street fair, held this year on Sept. 11, has grown from drawing a few thousand to around 17,000 last year. And then there's the app.

But merchants promise that most of their clientele are still people who grew up in Belmont or whose parents used to live there, even though few Italian-Americans are still residents. They report seeing a panoply of license plates each Saturday — from Connecticut, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Vermont — as folks fill their trunks with delicacies and necessities for the week.

A few hours on Arthur Avenue — and some innocent questions — will bear out that merchants are not focused on, and are even charmingly unprepared for, tourists.

A query about the differences among sausages with long Italian names in one store, for instance, only revealed what was already apparent: Some were thick and some were thin.

A friend remembers once visiting a shop and eagerly asking what kind of ravioli they had, anticipating pasta made with pumpkin or sage like one might see at an upscale market.

Meat and cheese, the answer came back. She pressed. Meat and cheese, the salesman deadpanned again. While Arthur Avenue has benefited from the general rise of Italian cuisine — Chris Borgatti of the renowned fresh pasta purveyor Borgatti's declares, "Italian food has surpassed French food" — it is not of the trend.

Most of the shoppers on Arthur Avenue, in other words, know what cervellata is (a kind of sausage, made with lamb at Peter's Meat Market). And they like their ravioli with either meat or cheese. (Borgatti's, though, does have a variety with spinach.)

Jerome Raguso, of Gino's Pastry Shop, calls the neighborhood a "family reunion."

One of the joys to a visitor is observing those intimacies of customer and merchant.

The other, of course, is eating. A conversation about Arthur Avenue is a conversation about food, and it can be hard to go without getting requests. A Scottish friend who went with me once loves the savory biscotti from Madonia Brothers bakery — made from their famous olive or multigrain breads and laced with rock salt. A neighbor of my parents put in an order for unsalted ricotta, made fresh daily (as is the mozzarella) at Calandra's cheese shop.

Sal Biancardi remembers a call from a woman in California looking for a sausage she remembered from her childhood. Did they still make it? They did, and it was on a plane shortly thereafter.


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Little Fort Atkinson acts bigger

FORT ATKINSON, Wis. — I've been trying to think of the term for that particular experience of entering a seemingly small space only to discover it's much larger. Until I can remember the right word for that phenomenon — if the word really exists — I've taken to calling it the Fort Atkinson Effect, after the place where I experienced it most strongly.

Population: 11,000 or so. But it has an Equity theater that casts in New York, a full-fledged movie studio, a dance floor worthy of Fred and Ginger, an 8-mile bike trail with a covered bridge, mysterious Indian mounds, an honest-to-goodness frontier fort, enough bars along Main Street to support the most determined pub crawl, and a warehouse where you can buy art supplies and farm equipment.

In this south-central Wisconsin town on the Rock River, they don't just float your boat; they help you built it. They won't simply fly you up for the bird's-eye view; they'll jump right out of the plane with you.

High points

In any given week, some 7,000 people attend professional, Broadway-style productions at the Fireside Dinner Theatre (800-477-9505, firesidethe

atre.com), where every ticket ($67) includes a meal before the show. The Klopcic family's award-winning restaurant serves a crowd-pleasing menu in the intimacy of multiple small dining rooms. Looking at the outside of this low-slung, barn-red, rambling pyramid, you'd never guess it can seat 1,000 guests at once or that several gift shops are under the same roof.

For the remainder of 2011, "Seven Brides for Seven Brothers" runs through Oct. 23 and "A Fireside Christmas," Oct. 27-Dec. 22. The Christian concert series ($35) continues with the Pfeifers Oct. 4-5.

Over at Salty Earth Pictures (414-587-7615, saltyearthpic

tures.org), groups of 10 or more can schedule a behind-the-scenes tour of this working movie studio. The Dove Award-winning "Movie Critters Big Picture" and the feature-length drama "Journey to Paradise" were filmed here. So was the television sitcom "Fifth Pew From the Front."

From the street, the plain-Jane, battleship-gray office front is easy to bypass. But it hides 30,000 square feet of production space, one of the largest independent studios in the United States. During the two-hour tour ($12), owners Steve and Beth Zambo show you around nine soundstages, the props department, and dressing and makeup rooms.

In the 6,000-square-foot Stage 3, your group can participate in a game show or newscast while learning how Hollywood creates special effects. Tours conclude in the Second Take Resale Shop, where proceeds help fund this not-for-profit studio. Its sales floor doubles as a movie set, and the merchandise might have served as props or costumes.

Those who want to push the envelope wind up at AtmosphAIR Skydiving Center (920-568-1700, diveout.com). Owners Bo Babovic, with 12,000 jumps to his credit, and wife, Alex, with 4,000 jumps, take first-time skydivers through a 45-minute ground school where the focus is on preparing for the emotional extremes — raw fear, then bliss — of what they are about to do. Then it's time to suit up and take off ($219).

At optimum altitude, your harness is hooked to your instructor's for a tandem jump, and out you go. The 120 mph free fall lasts about a minute, then the parachute opens for a five-minute canopy ride.

But there's no shame in staying on the ground. Somebody's got to fire up the gas grill and spread the picnic table, which are permanent fixtures on the hangar's back porch.

That Fred-and-Ginger dance floor? It's part of the fine-dining and special-event complex at Central Coast Restaurant (920-568-9695, centralcoastrestaurant.com). Join them for dance lessons on Thursday nights, or just watch from the Vegas-style tiered seating.

Simple pleasures

Fort Atkinson is the southern headquarters of the Glacial Heritage Area Watertrails. Few know its routes better than Kim Grunow, who contributed his expertise to the water trail map. He also knows his way around boat-building and helps others learn the craft at Rock River Canoes (920-723-0657, rockrivercanoe.com). For a decade, he's been milling his own lumber into quarter-inch strips that eventually become canoes or kayaks, depending on each hobbyist's inclinations. Stop by this Main Street storefront-turned-workshop, and you'll see as many as a dozen boats in various stages of construction.

Southwest of town, skirting Lake Koshkonong, 11 effigy (animal-shaped) and conical mounds have stood for perhaps 1,500 years. These 4-foot-high earthworks are preserved in the Jefferson County Indian Mound Site. Inside the city limits along the Rock River, another ancient earthwork, the Panther Intaglio (an excavated hollow), is considered North America's only intact intaglio.

Then there's 1832 Fort Koshkonong. Its reconstructed wooden palisades and watchtowers, open year round, become the scene of the old fur-trading days during Buckskinner's Rendezvous.

So you see what I mean: That's a long list for a little town. There's more to see and do in Fort Atkinson, but this'll get you started.

If you go

Getting there

Fort Atkinson is 115 miles from Chicago via U.S. Highway 12.

Staying there

Chains include Holiday Inn Express (920-563-3600, holidayinn.com) and American's Best Value Inn (920-563-6444, abvicourtyardinn.com). B&Bs include Kosh's Lake View B&B (920-563-7476, koshslakeview.com) and Lamp Post Inn B&B (920-563-6561, thelamppostinn.com).

Information

Fort Atkinson Chamber of Commerce: 888-SEE-FORT, fortchamber.com.


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48 Hours in Hobart, Australia


HOBART, Australia (Reuters) - Flanked by mountains and the sea, Hobart is Australia's most southern city. In late December through early January each year it becomes a "maritime Mecca," with yachts sailing across the finish line in the grueling Sydney to Hobart race.

The abundance of sailors converging on the city then resembles its early days of white settlement when Hobart, the capital of Tasmania, was a bustling whaling port and former penal colony.

Hobart, a 70-minute flight from Melbourne, is also a base for Antarctic expeditions engaging in research from the deep south, and it's not unusual to see these massive research vessels moored along the quay wall.

Reuters correspondents with local knowledge help visitors get the most out of a 48-hour visit.

FRIDAY

5 p.m. Check into one of Hobart's newest hotels, The Henry Jones Art Hotel, located on 22 Hunter Street, which offers waterfront and mountain views. http://www.thehenryjones.com

Then head out to soak up the waterfront ambience and stroll over to The Customs House Hotel, just five minutes away. Australia's oldest brewery is in Hobart, so enjoy a drop of local Cascade beer before dinner. http://www.customshousehotel.com

8 p.m Nearby is Muir's Upper Deck restaurant. Nestled between Victoria and Constitution Docks, the establishment owns its own fishing fleet, guaranteeing a fresh catch daily. http://www.upperdeck.com.au

Whether diners choose oysters, seafood chowder, the catch of the day or a "fisherman's basket," accompanied by local wine -- perhaps from the Tamar Valley, which has developed a reputation for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir -- the night will be memorable.

SATURDAY

9 a.m. Leave the waterfront views behind and venture through the heart of the city for a wander before popping into The Italian Pantry Cafe-Deli at 34 Federal Street. After enjoying a light breakfast of coffee and Italian pastries, take the time to wander through the Deli with its trove of Italy's finest produce including cheeses, sausages, pasta, sugo and pickled vegetables. The friendly staff are always happy to have a chat. http://www.italianpantry.com

11 a.m Visit Salamanca Place and immerse yourself in local island culture at the weekly Saturday markets. Visitors may get a glimpse of royalty as Princess Mary of Denmark, a native of Hobart, returns home once in awhile to visit family and has been seen wandering through the markets.

Around 300 stalls cluster between historic sandstone buildings that house galleries and cafes as fishing boats bob in the harbor. It's easy to while away hours watching artisans, listening to street musicians and sampling local products such as honey, cheeses and fresh lavender. Lunch at one of the waterfront cafes or buy something tasty at a stall and eat in nearby Parliament Gardens. http://www.salamanca.com.au

2 p.m For a unique artistic experience buy a $15 return ferry ticket at the waterfront to visit MONA (Museum of New and Old Art) located on the shores of the Derwent river at the Moorilla Estate winery in nearby Berriedale, just a 45-minute cruise up the river. http://www.moorilla.com

Surrounded by a vineyard, a cellar door and a micro-brewery, this museum is believed to be Australia's biggest private museum. On display is some of the most provocative contemporary art of recent years, including work by Australia's Greg Taylor and Germany's Julius Popp.

8 p.m Overlooking Salamanca lies the tiny suburb of Battery Point boasting historic homes and colorful garrison cottages dating back to the settlement era. Amble the quaint streets and enjoy dinner at Ristorante Da Angelo, 47 Hamden Road, for a truly authentic Italian experience. A booking is necessary.

Offerings include a pasta dish of marinara, brimming with king prawns, fish, scallops and clams in a rich tomato sauce, or Pollo Paesano Macaroni with chicken, seeded mustard, bacon, sun-dried tomatoes, olives, onions, chili in cream sauce. You can bring your own beer or wine or order from their wide selection of wines, beers and spirits. http://www.daangelo.com

After your hearty meal, stroll back to your hotel via Salamanca Place and enjoy the weekend social life that spills onto the cobbled streets, creating a jovial party atmosphere.

SUNDAY

8 a.m. The hotel boasts a courtyard adjoining the rooms. If the weather permits, enjoy breakfast outdoors, taking in the views of Mount Wellington.

8.30 a.m. Experience Hobart's wilderness with a fully guided half day (full day optional) tour of Mt Wellington with Mt Wellington Walks. This eco-friendly company will submerge you in a timeless world of ancient forests and windswept peaks 1,270 meters (yards) above sea level. Visitors will get a rare opportunity to see Tasmania as the first settlers saw it in this windy wilderness. http://www.mtwellingtonwalks.com.au

1 p.m. To begin the wind down before leaving Tasmania's fair shores, grab some fish and chips or fresh oysters from the floating boats near Constitution Docks and rest your weary legs. From this vantage point you may see one or more of the icebreaker research ships bound for Antarctica, including the Australian Antarctic Division's "Aurora Australis" and the French Polar Institute's "l'Astrolabe."

Or, for the more adventurous, perhaps a 90-minute cruise on the Derwent river aboard the Lady Nelson tall ship. Where possible the volunteer crew will encourage passengers to help set sails or take a turn at the helm. For A$15 this is a fantastic way to be part of a bygone era of traditional sailing on the high seas. http://www.ladynelson.org.au

(Editing by Elaine Lies)


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Food, family focus of Sorrento class

We arrive for our cooking class in Sorrento, Italy, on Pasquetta, the Monday after Easter — a national holiday celebrated by families throughout Italy. It seems appropriate that today everyone is focused on food and camaraderie.

When we reach the driveway of Villa Ida, we are greeted by Roberta Cuomo, the first member of the Cuomo clan we meet. We follow her along a short path lined with grape vines and fragrant oranges and lemons. She invites us to drink Neapolitan coffee and plum cake around one of the large, round, painted ceramic tables in a manicured backyard that feels like a family room.

My husband, Jerry, lived and worked in Italy for a year before we met, and now, many years later, we are here to feed my interest in Italian cookery and expand his role in the kitchen beyond frothy cappuccino and carciofi alla giudia (Roman-style fried artichokes).

The Cuomos, once a family of nobles, live in a private villa that houses 20 family members in an ocher-colored stucco enclave subdivided into eight apartments. Angela (Roberta's aunt), the capocuoco (executive chef) of the operation, soon joins us. In her late 50s, she speaks only limited English (Roberta is a proficient speaker), but Angela is adept at communicating with a warm smile and seems to understand every comment we make or question we ask. We roll up our sleeves and take up our places at individual cooking stations set up on both sides of a long table next to the outdoor kitchen.

The menu includes a traditional four-course Neapolitan-style lunch using recipes that Angela and her mother, Ida, inherited. First, we make tomato sauce for a pasta dish that layers ziti from nearby Gragnano with baby eggplants and mozzarella cheese. The approach is hands-on, watching and doing.

Following Angela's lead, we marinate capretto (goat) in garlic, oil, vinegar, rosemary, sage, salt and pepper in preparation for roasting. Next she shows us how to flour and fry veal scaloppine. With our appetites growing, we assemble tiramisu for the dessert. Sophisticated looking but surprisingly simple to make, the finished desserts are placed in the fridge.

After we've finished preparations, Angela's brother-in-law "Charlie" invites us to his man cave, a cantina where he stores the wines he makes from seven grapes, including the distinctively sweet strawberry grapes of the area. "I come here with my problems to solve them," he says philosophically. "But when I enter the cantina, I forget them." It's easy to see why. We taste his white wine, red wine, merlot and a combination of red wine and gassosa soda that Charlie calls "babooza." Like the cooking school, which operates only a day or two a week — by appointment — so as not to interfere with family life, Charlie's winemaking operation is also part-time.

Charlie soon coaxes us out of our cushioned seats in the cave to get back to cooking. Two men in our group help him carry jugs of wine to another long dinner table, which is set under a pergolato (pergola). A cantankerous rooster next door is the only distraction, momentarily interrupting the nostalgic crooning of Stevie Wonder and Frank Sinatra over outdoor speakers.

We finally sit down to lunch surrounded by our cooking school adoptive family. The menu, the flavors, the setting and the warmth of our instructors combine for an unforgettable Easter Monday. A few more family members return to the villa, introducing themselves and filling out our table. Angela brings out two additional holiday desserts: a colomba di Pasqua (a Panetonne-like bread shaped like a dove) and a sweeter cake called pastira.

Every cooking class ends with certificates for the newly anointed chefs. I'm not sure my husband will expand his menu at home, but I know that, like me, he has learned two of the most important cooking lessons: Stick to simple recipes with fresh, high-quality, local ingredients, and share meals with friends and family.

If you go

Cooking classes at Villa Ida in Sorrento, Italy, are generally held between 9:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. or between 4 and 8 p.m. There is a minimum of two people and maximum of 20. The price of $185 per person includes the course and the meal. For booking, email villaida@hotmail.com.


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Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Warning: Debit card woes ahead

If you regularly use your debit (ATM) card to make purchases, or if your card earns airline miles or other rewards, get ready for fewer benefits and more fees. New regulations cap the fees banks can charge merchants to process debit card transactions. And the big banks, unwilling to lose even a few pennies of potential revenue, decided that if they can no longer get fat fees from merchants, they'll ding you card users instead. You're not really surprised, are you?

Here's at least some of what's happened so far:

-- Wells Fargo will soon test $3 monthly fees for debit cards on accounts held by residents of Georgia, Oregon, New Mexico, Nevada, and Washington; Sun Trust has already started issuing debit cards carrying a $5 monthly fee; Regions Bank will add fees to some cards starting in October; and Chase is testing monthly fees in a few areas.

-- Chase has already ended its reward program for debit cards, and industry mavens predict many other banks will follow suit.

Several banks say they won't assess the fee if you "don't use" the card. Presumably, they mean don't use it to make purchases. If they also mean don't use it to withdraw cash from a bank-owned ATM, that leaves the question of why have a card at all if you don't use it?

For now, banks say they will exempt some of you from future fees, at least so far: If you carry a big balance or do other major business with your bank, you're probably off the hook.

What should most of you do now?

-- If your current debit card earns rewards, figure those rewards will go away quickly. If you want to keep earning rewards, your only option will be a credit card, where banks are still allowed to gouge merchants. As long as you pay your balance off in full, using a credit card won't cost any more than using a debit card, and credit cards actually provide some valuable buyer protections that debit cards do not.

-- If you routinely use your debit card for purchases, and your bank starts dinging you with a fee, move your checking account to a different bank. For now, lots of big banks still don't add fees, but that could change pretty quickly.

Longer term, however, you can expect to pay more using plastic. Merchants -- with airlines leading the parade -- are starting to add fees for credit-card purchases. Several years ago Australia banned contracts requiring merchants to charge no more for credit card purchases than for cash, so consumers there already pay a premium for many credit card purchases. More recently, Lufthansa announced it would start adding a fee for credit card purchases in some areas outside the United States. Allegiant and Spirit already charge stiff fees for online credit card bookings -- and the only way to avoid them is to schlep to an airport when the airline ticket counter is staffed to buy your tickets there.

Again long term, look for a drive by big airlines to keep getting closer to the one bank that co-brands their credit card. Airlines are fighting with online travel agencies such as Expedia and Travelocity to determine who "owns" you as a customer -- each wants to keep the added potential revenue from selling you hotels, rental cars, insurance, and such with your air ticket -- and one way they'll do that is to tie you into a credit card partnership. You already see it with the deals the big three airlines have with their co-branding bank to give cardholders one "free" checked bag and other perks. Presumably, if the airlines start adding fees for credit card purchases, they'll waive those fees when you use their partner banks' cards.

All in all, you have to remain vigilant. Keep your eyes on statements and announcements you get from your card issuers, and be prepared to move accounts if you see some unreasonable fees.

Send e-mail to Ed Perkins at eperkins@mind.net. Perkins' new book for small business and independent professionals, "Business Travel When It's Your Money," is now available through www.mybusinesstravel.com or www.amazon.com


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A literary stamp to these three houses

Reporting from Austerlitz, N.Y.—

In 1937, poet Edna St. Vincent Millay came close to refusing an honorary degree from New York University when she learned she had been excluded from a reception for male recipients of the doctorate at the Waldorf-Astoria and instead was to have a quiet dinner with the chancellor's wife.

By that time, Millay had written almost 10 books of poetry, won a Pulitzer Prize and cut herself out of corsets and stays by — as she so famously put it — "burning her candle at both ends" during the Jazz Age.

Photos: Literary Northeast

Millay ultimately accepted the degree, but her objections to gender segregation were later taken up by the feminist movement, which viewed the term "women writers" as derogatory, consigning those so labeled to second-class citizenship.

I hope that we're beyond polemics now and that it is no longer incorrect to think women can't be great writers. Lately, I've been thinking about three who lived near me in the Northeast: Millay (1892-1950), who traded bohemian Greenwich Village for a placid farmhouse in eastern New York state; celebrated novelist Edith Wharton (1862-1937), chatelaine of a mansion across the Berkshire Mountains from Millay in the upper-class summer haven of Lenox, Mass.; and the divine Emily Dickinson (1830-1886), who spent her whole life in Amherst, Mass., and thus "never saw a moor," though she could conjure up the universe in the space of a single stanza.

I recently toured Millay's Steepletop, Wharton's the Mount and the Emily Dickinson Homestead. Seeing the houses in succession gave me a fresh appreciation for their work and the different obstacles they faced to become writers. But perhaps just as significantly, I realized how profoundly at home they were in the beautiful countryside.

Edna St. Vincent Millay

"O world, I cannot hold thee close enough!

Thy winds, thy wide grey skies!

Thy mists, that roll and rise!

Thy woods, this autumn day, that ache and sag

And all but cry with colour! That gaunt crag

To crush! To lift the lean of that black bluff!

World, World, I cannot get thee close enough!"

"God's World"

Millay was born in Rockland, Maine, and given her unusual middle name because her uncle had once been treated at St. Vincent's Hospital in Manhattan. Vincent — as almost everyone called her — was the oldest of three daughters raised in a financially strained single-parent family after her ne'er-do-well father was sent packing.

She was 20 when she wrote "Renascence," a haunting lyric poem about spiritual awakening that made her an overnight sensation. Admirers of the "girl poetess" in 1913 sent her to Vassar, where she made friends, purportedly lesbian; Millay was a lifelong bisexual. After college, she sloughed off her shy provincialism, roaring through the 1920s in Greenwich Village and collecting lovers like bottles of bathtub gin.

In 1923, she married Eugen Boissevain, a Dutch businessman who in many ways was the hero of Millay's story. He saw her through illness and drug addiction, ran her household and left her free to have affairs — all in order to keep her writing poetry.

Boissevain spotted an ad for a 435-acre dairy farm in the Taconic Mountains near the border of New York and Massachusetts. In 1925, the couple moved to Steepletop, named for a wildflower that grows around the modest white farmhouse on Harvey Mountain. "We're so excited about it we're nearly daft in the bean — kidney bean, lima bean, string-bean, butter-bean — you dow whad I bean — ha! ha! ha!" Millay wrote to her mother.


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Monday, September 5, 2011

Lively, artsy Barcelona invites strolling

If you're in the mood to surrender to a city's charms, let it be in Barcelona. Life bubbles in its old alleys, grand boulevards and elegant modern district.

Barcelona has an illustrious past, from its time as a Roman colony to its rise as a 14th century maritime power. Now it's enjoyable just to throw out the history books and drift through the city.

A stroll down Barcelona's main pedestrian drag, the Ramblas, is a free-fall into sensory overload. This grand boulevard takes you from rich (the elegant main square, Placa de Catalonia) to rough (the port) in a one-mile, 30-minute walk.

The Ramblas, which means "stream" in Arabic, is an endless current of people and action. You'll raft the river of Barcelona life past a grand opera house, elegant cafes, prostitutes, artists, street mimes, an outdoor bird market and pickpockets (wear a money belt). At the lively Boqueria produce market, locals shop in the morning for the best and freshest selection of meat, fruit and veggies.

East of the Ramblas is Barcelona's Gothic quarter, the Barri Gotic, which surrounds a colossal cathedral. The narrow streets that surround the cathedral are a tangled but inviting grab bag of undiscovered Art Nouveau storefronts, neighborhood flea markets (Thursdays), musty junk shops, classy antique shops and musicians strumming the folk songs of Catalonia (the independent-minded region of northeast Spain, of which Barcelona is the capital).

A creative spirit is part of the ebb and flow of daily life in Barcelona. Modern artist Joan Miro lived in the Barri Gotic. His designs are found all over the city, from murals to mobiles to the logo of La Caixa bank. If you enjoy his childlike style, ride the funicular up to Parc de Montjuic and peek into the Fundacio Joan Miro, a showcase for his art.

The Barri Gotic also was home to a teenage Pablo Picasso. It was in Barcelona, in the 1890s, that Picasso grabbed hold of the artistic vision that rocketed him to Paris and fame. The Picasso Museum, in La Ribera district, is the best collection of the artist's work in Spain. Seeing Picasso's youthful, realistic art, you can better appreciate the genius of his later, more abstract art.

For a refreshing break from the dense old city, head north to the modern Eixample neighborhood, with its wide sidewalks, graceful shade trees, chic shops and Art Nouveau frills. Barcelona was busting out of its medieval walls by the 1850s, and so a new town — called the Eixample, or Expansion — was laid out in a grid pattern. The original vision was an egalitarian one: Each 20-block-square district was to have its own hospital and large park, markets, schools and day care centers.

But over time the Eixample became a showcase for wealthy residents and their Catalan architects, who turned the flourishing Art Nouveau style into Modernisme, their own brand of decorative design. Buildings bloom with characteristic colorful, leafy and flowing shapes in doorways, entrances, facades and ceilings.

Barcelona's most famous Modernista artist, Antoni Gaudi created architectural fantasies that are a quirky quilt of galloping gables and organic curves. A quintessential example of Modernisme, Casa Mila has walls of wavy stone and a fanciful, undulating rooftop, where 30 chimneys play volleyball with the clouds. At Casa Batllo, a green-blue ceramic-speckled facade, tibia-esque pillars and shell-like balconies are inspired by nature, while the humpback roofline suggests a cresting dragon's back.

But Gaudi's best known and most persistent work is the eternally unfinished Sagrada Familia, with its melting ice cream cone spires and towers. The Nativity Facade, the only part of the church essentially completed in Gaudi's time, shows the architect's original vision. Mixing Christian symbolism, images from nature and the organic flair of Modernisme, it's an impressive example of his unique style.

Climb up between the spires for a gargoyle's-eye perspective of a living, growing, bigger-than-life building. Local craftsmen often finish their careers by putting in a couple of years working on the project. The church is supposed to be completed in 2026, which marks the 100th anniversary of Gaudi's death. It could happen — after three decades of visits, I've seen considerable progress. Your admission helps pay for the construction.

Gaudi fans also enjoy the artist's magic in the colorful, freewheeling Parc Guell, a 30-acre hilltop garden once intended to be a 60-residence housing project, a kind of gated community. Carpeted with fanciful mosaics and dotted with sculptures (including a giant tiled lizard), this park is a great place to cap the day.

From art to food to markets, Barcelona specializes in lively — and that's why it's such a hit with travelers.

Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com, and follow his blog on Facebook.)


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No wonder Genghis Khan sought comfort elsewhere

No wonder Genghis Khan sought comfort elsewhere

Gers in the Mongolian countryside. (Denis Horgan)

SHINE-IDER, Mongolia — For 16 days, I slept like Genghis Khan.

You can do that in Mongolia, and you really don't have much of a choice. For 5,000 years, rural Mongolians have lived in gers, or yurts, which are round, pointy shelters covered in white wool felt. Picture miniature circus tents, and you have gers.

Gers dot Mongolia's gorgeous countryside like mushrooms in a field of lush grass. They can be assembled in about three hours, perfect for Mongolians' nomadic lifestyle and travelers seeking insight into the "Great Mongol Nation" of the 13th century.

Inside the typical ger are six small — very small — beds lined head-to-toe surrounding a wood stove that releases smoke through a hole in the roof. Even in summer, the stove is needed when pleasant daytime temperatures of 70 to 80 plummet into the 40s at night.

After sleeping in gers for more than two weeks, I don't know if I respect Genghis Khan for conquering the world from Korea to Hungary or for being able to accomplish anything after sleeping on the same kind of beds I did.

I'm 6 foot 3. Many beds don't go a toenail past 5 foot 9. The quality of bedding varied. I slept on some relatively soft mattresses, and the sleeping bags provided were just warm enough. Other beds were like sleeping on a woodworking bench.

The accommodations are cheap, however. Most ger-keepers charge about $10 per bed, and the quality of gers goes up with the price. In the ancient Mongol capital of Kharkhorin, $60 gers feature carpeting, only two beds with real mattresses and wooden headboards. Those gers have a TV, stained-wood nightstands and two chairs with a table for tea.

They also have another luxury: toilets. In 16 days, I saw just four. Instead, rural Mongols use "natural toilets" — or holes in the ground. Nomads move around too much to make plumbing permanent.


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Top 10 BBQ spots for Labor Day


NEW YORK (Reuters) - Picking top barbecue spots is a tad dangerous. The emotions connected to hometown recipes run as deeply as their flavors. Nevertheless online travel adviser Cheapflights (www.cheapflights.com) couldn't resist taking a stab at where to find finger-licking good beef and pork dishes for the Labor Day holiday. Reuters has not endorsed this list:

1. Chapel Hill, North Carolina

Find quintessential Eastern North Carolina barbecue (hint: slow-roasted pork and thin, vinegar-based sauce) in Chapel Hill at cult favorite Allen & Son Barbecue. No need to wear your jacket and tie to this neighborhood joint; its floors are covered in vinyl tile and its tables with checkered table cloths. Keith Allen cuts the hickory wood himself, then uses his secret ingredient to smoke house specialties like fall-off-the-bone ribs and BBQ sandwiches. Accompany Allen's tangy dishes with a glass of sweet tea, and remember to save - or compartmentalize - room for southern sweets like homemade peach cobbler.

2. Memphis, Tennessee

Dry rub reigns in Memphis, where restaurants throw elbows to win the hearts of visitors and would take to their secret recipes to the grave. Heavy hitter Charles Vergos' Rendezvous, opened in 1948 by "Mr. Downtown" Vergos himself, dishes out slabs of pork - part wet, part dry. "Vous style" ribs are basted with vinegar before being dusted with savory spices, creating a crispy, smoked bark. Though Vergos passed away in 2010, his legacy lives on in downtown Memphis. Those without a trip to the River City on the horizon need not fear: Rendezvous ships ribs, pork shoulder, barbecue sauce and other specialty items at a pricey - though worthy - cost.

3. Kansas City, Kansas

We know Anthony Bourdain brought legitimate attention to Oklahoma Joe's Barbecue - a restaurant nestled inside a corner gas station - years ago. But after a visit just this past spring, we couldn't miss the opportunity to talk about the unassuming gem's menu. Pulled pork sandwiches slathered in a spicy sauce with sweet undertones are just the start at this Kansas City favorite. Order a full slab of ribs - fit for you and a friend or two - and drown them in KC's rise-to-the-top table sauce.

4. Austin, Texas

The only thing better than chowing down on Texas barbecue is chowing down on Texas barbecue outside at a live rock concert. Stubb's Bar-B-Q combines Austin's two claims to fame - barbecue and live music - at one awesome downtown venue. Gracing the menu is barbecued brisket, served with your choice of two sides, including coleslaw, fried okra or pinto beans. And while other southern states perfect pork, Texas focuses its culinary attention on beef brisket. Prepared with a simple seasoning - usually just salt and pepper - the beef is slowly cooked over wood or coals. Some joints sop their meat in a famous beer, lemon and vinegar concoction, while others let the brisket speak for its savory self.

5. Chicago, Illinois

Follow a comedy show at Second City with a trip to Smoque, Chicago's go-to restaurant for fall-off-the-bone ribs and barbecue. Take the L train to Irving Park - a neighborhood north of the Loop - for brisket, pulled pork, Texas-style sausage and smoked chicken. "Low and slow" is Smoque's slogan, and the thoughtful methodology pays off. Though Chi-town is climbing the ranks of America's foodie towns and reservation-necessary restaurants like Girl and the Goat and Publican are serving snout-to-tail pork to critical acclaim, it's Smoque that's got the city's barbecue title on lockdown.

6. Holly Hill, South Carolina

South Carolina isn't a particularly large state, but you'd never guess from its extraordinary variety of secret barbecue recipes. In the western part of the state, pork comes drenched in a thick, ketchup-based tomato sauce. Central South Carolina prides itself on a mustard-vinegar-brown sugar combination. And on the east coast, it's the whole hog served up in a watered-down vinegar and pepper blend. To taste the central "Carolina Gold" recipe, head to Sweatman's Bar-b-que in Holly Hill. Carnivores drive more than 100 miles for the mustard-style pork, and the pig-filled buffet makes each mile worth it.

7. Santa Barbara, California

On your next trip to the West Coast, make room in both your itinerary and stomach for Santa Maria Style Barbecue. Unique to the Santa Maria Valley in central California, the method starts with a fairly typical rub of salt, pepper and garlic. Then grill masters takes an unexpected and fabulous turn by cooking special cuts like tri-tip beef rump over red oak coals. Chefs at farmers' markets across the Santa Barbara region take pride in their smoked craft, so be sure to bring your appetite.

8. Honolulu, Hawaii

A visit to the 50th state is pretty much guaranteed to culminate at a luau. Most resorts in Hawaii offer a once-a-week celebration - stocked with leis, hula dancers and fire throwers - that tells mesmerizing stories of ancient Polynesia. Its feast is a spread that shares Hawaii's heritage through food, and the main course: a whole roasted pig. Called kalua pig, it's prepared in an underground pit, an imu, and paired with other Hawaiian dishes like poke, similar to a ceviche, and poi, a viscous dish made from the taro plant.

9. Doral, Florida

South of the equator, the epitome of barbecue excellence is found in Brazil, where churrasco - that's Portuguese for barbecue - is king. But you don't have to travel that far to find world-class churrasco. At the aptly named Churrasco's just west of Miami, you can choose from top-notch standards like grilled chicken, short ribs, and every cut of steak you could wish for. Pair these with sides like fried sweet plantains and black beans. 10. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

If you like your barbecue extra spicy, look no further than Jamaican "jerk" barbecue, where meats are dry-rubbed or marinated in an aggressive mixture of fiery spices. But you don't have to travel to tropical locales to get your fill: The Jamaican Jerk Hut in Philadelphia has some of the best jerk this side of Cuba. Jerk chicken is the staple of the menu, but, if you're feeling brave, take it to the next level with the curry goat or oxtail stew. Whatever you choose, you can't go wrong. Just make sure to keep a tall glass of water at the ready.

(Edited by Paul Casciato)


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Sunday, September 4, 2011

Plenty of fun to be had after snowbirds clear out

PALM BEACH, Fla. — Many of the waterfront mansions are shuttered for the season, and there are few yachts at the private docks along the Intracoastal. The theater season doesn't start until late October, concerts and art exhibits at the Society for the Four Arts are on hiatus until November, and the walking tours of Worth Avenue won't start again until late November.

But that doesn't mean there's not a weekend getaway's worth of music, art, bicycling, shopping, sightseeing, antiquing and dining in Palm Beach and across the Intracoastal in West Palm Beach.

And for those who crave la dolce vita but don't want to spend high-season rates of more than $500 a night at the city's luxury hotels, some of those same hotels are offering rooms at less than $200 in late summer and early fall. Some have special deals in their restaurants and spas as well.

Tempted? Here are 10 things you can do in the two cities connected by the Royal Park Bridge.

—Art After Dark. In one room, a painter is demonstrating a few watercolor techniques. In the atrium around the corner, magicians are entertaining the crowd with tricks. In the next room, another artist is demonstrating how to draw comic-book heroes, and in the auditorium, Spock and Darth Vader are arguing over which is better: "Star Wars" or "Star Trek."

People — adults and kids, too — are wandering through galleries, looking at exhibits. (Kids especially like "Out of This World: Extraordinary Costumes from Film and Television," an exhibit of costumes from science fiction movies and TV shows, that runs through Sept. 4).

It's Thursday night, time for the Norton Museum of Art's weekly Art After Dark program, which brings art and artists together with the public in a more casual environment that includes live music, food and cocktails.

The program is from 5 to 9 p.m. every Thursday at the Norton, 1451 S. Olive Ave., 561-832-5196, http://www.norton.org. Admission $12 for adults, $5 for ages 13 to 21. The Norton will be closed Sept. 12-30 to reinstall its galleries of European and American art; Art After Dark resumes on Oct. 6.

—Go antiquing. Antique Row along South Dixie Highway in West Palm Beach has more than 30 shops. Although business slows in the summer, the shops stay open and their owners refresh their stock. Traffic this time of year is mostly year-round residents, says Ray Hawkins of Hawkins Antiques. Late in the year, snowbirds send their designers ahead to shop for an antique breakfront or a giltwood mirror — or a whole roomful of antiques.

"The thing that attracts a lot of attention is there are 30 or 40 shops and very few shops are empty," Hawkins says. He's especially pleased that Cedric DuPont Antiques, known in part for its celebrity clients, moved in February from downtown to Antique Row, where it's drawing new shoppers to the neighborhood.

Other than Cedric DuPont, most of the shops don't stand out, and a passerby not looking for antique shops might not notice that he's on Antique Row. South Dixie Highway between Southern Boulevard and Belvedere Road; http://westpalmbeachantiques.com/.

—Stop and smell the flowers. Literally.

Mounts Botanical Garden in West Palm Beach has 14 acres of gardens: the butterfly garden, the rose garden, herb and vegetables gardens, a display of succulents, exotic trees, tropical fruits and more, plus some lovely sculptures. Chairs and benches are scattered throughout the grounds. There's even a gazebo where visitors can take shelter during sudden summer storms if the Garden Shop with its large collection of books isn't within a quick sprint.

559 N. Military Trail, West Palm Beach; 561-233-1757; http://www.mounts.org. Open Monday through Saturday, 8:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; Sunday, noon-4 p.m. Admission: suggested donation of $5.

—Sample a celebrity chef's cuisine. At Cafe Boulud, James Beard award winner Daniel Boulud's restaurant at the Brazilian Court, the "Summer Sizzles" three-course prix fixe menu is $20.11 for lunch weekdays, $35 for dinner Sunday through Thursday. For the lunch first course, a diner might choose from Golden Beet Borscht with Smoked Trout Rillette, Mesclun Salad with Poached Laughing Bird Shrimp, and Crispy Lamb Ribs with Minted Yogurt. On the a la carte lunch menu, by comparison, first courses run $12 to $20. 301 Australian Ave., Palm Beach; 561-655-6060; http://www.thebraziliancourt.com/cafe-boulud/.

Over at the Omphoy Ocean Resort, where local celeb chef Michelle Bernstein has an eponymous restaurant, there's a summer special of a three-course prix fixe dinner for $35 Sundays through Thursdays. 2842 S. Ocean Blvd., Palm Beach; 561-540-6444; http://www.omphoy.com.

—Revisit the Cold War. On Peanut Island, at the mouth of the Lake Worth Inlet not far from the former Kennedy estate at Palm Beach, are a bunker and command center built for President John F. Kennedy during the Cuban Missile Crisis. The bunker is 25 feet underground and includes a radio room and decontamination chamber as well as living quarters. After Kennedy's assassination, the facilities fell into disrepair and were flooded. The site was later was restored by the Palm Beach Maritime Museum and furnished with replica items.

The museum, located in the old Coast Guard station, offers tours of the Kennedy Bunker between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. Admission: $10; $9 seniors; $5 students.

The island, which is not natural but was built of materials from dredging, is itself a park that includes campgrounds, picnic shelters, and some prime snorkeling spots. The island is accessible by private boat or shuttles from the Riviera Beach Marina, 200 E 13th Street, Riviera Beach, 561-339-2504, or the Palm Beach Water Taxi, Sailfish Marina Resort, 98 Lake Dr., Singer Island, 561-683-8294; http://www.sailfishmarina.com.


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Back to Lincoln's Springfield

SPRINGFIELD — You strained to touch Lincoln's shiny bronze nose.

If you're from the Chicago area, you probably remember that road trip.

This is an excellent time to reprise the family journey, with Lincoln sure to be big on history tests this school year because of the Civil War sesquicentennial. Plus, the kid-friendly Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum in Springfield brings the 16th president's story together nicely for youthful consumption.

Our family made that pilgrimage south with friends: Two cars containing three adults and three boys (average age of the kids: 9). The first stop after a four-hour trip was Lincoln's New Salem Historic Site, about 20 miles northwest of the capital.

With free admission and an outdoor setting, New Salem is an ideal spot for the kids to run around and decompress after a long drive. Not just mindless running, either. New Salem was a pioneer settlement where Lincoln first struck out on his own as a young man. Its rustic log buildings and stone fireplaces were faithfully re-created by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, about a century after Lincoln lived there.

It's a refreshingly low-tech look at pioneer life and Lincoln's humble start as a surveyor, postmaster and shopkeeper. Guided by docent "residents" in period dress, oxen work New Salem's gardens, where the historical information is doled out informally.

Lincoln landed there by chance when his riverboat grounded in the Sangamon River. But professionally, nothing really clicked for him business-wise in New Salem. He had once said, however, that his "concern is not whether you have failed but whether you are content with your failure." Clearly he was not. Lincoln pushed on to become a prominent lawyer, an Illinois legislator, a congressman, and, of course, president.

"You'll love the Lincoln museum," New Salem site interpreter Jane Carrington promised as she swept up behind a butter churn. "Most of it is designed with 9-year-olds in mind, and I mean that in the best possible way."

So as with Lincoln, it was on to Springfield for us.

The realistic figures of the Lincoln family standing at the White House portico have greeted millions of visitors to the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum since it opened in 2005.

The $150 million museum's life-size scenes and interactive Civil War exhibits are enhanced by many historical artifacts. Among them are a hand-drafted copy of the Gettysburg Address, Mary Todd Lincoln's wedding dress and realistic Civil War soldiers clothed in period uniforms.

The tragedy of Lincoln's life also figures prominently. Mary's fan and a pair of gloves the president took to Ford's Theatre on the night of his assassination are on display. There's also a heartbreaking look into Willie Lincoln's White House bedroom. In the full-size scene, Willie's parents console the dying 11-year-old with a toy.

Just about five blocks south, at Eighth and Jackson streets, we also visited the only home Lincoln ever owned. Now run by the National Park Service, the Lincoln Home was donated to the state of Illinois by son Robert Todd Lincoln in 1887 under the conditions that it be kept tidy and free to the public. The wishes were granted, and the park service has since preserved not just the home but most of Lincoln's old neighborhood. Ranger-led tours are informative, with re-enactors portraying characters from Lincoln's day.

In the front hall of the main house, Lincoln's stovepipe hat hangs on a hook, as if Abe had just dropped in for lunch.

There are several more Lincoln-related sites in Springfield. During the wait for our tour of his home (free tickets are issued for designated times), we punched Oak Ridge Cemetery into the GPS and made a run to Lincoln's Tomb. Solemnly, visitors filed past a crypt containing Lincoln's body and others containing those of three sons and his wife. Inscribed in marble over Lincoln's grave "Now he belongs to the ages," the historically disputed quote by Secretary of War Edwin Stanton at the moment of Lincoln's passing.

Outside the tomb, I hoisted my sons up to touch his nose on a bust, said to bring good luck.

On this trip, the boys seemed to have a high tolerance for learning, so we also took them on a self-guided tour of the Illinois State Capitol, including a stop at the House gallery. Beneath ornate chandeliers, members of the General Assembly scurried about, but we didn't wait for the gavel.

We also didn't take time this trip, but another great Lincoln stop is the Old State Capitol in the town square, a reconstruction of the building where Lincoln argued cases before the state Supreme Court.

For unstructured fun later, we went swimming at our hotel, the Crowne Plaza Springfield. (We tracked down our plush lodgings on Hotwire.com and snagged the room for $74, tax included.)

With a little more time, we might have followed up on a friend's recommendation to visit the venerable Cozy Dog Drive In, which is not only a part of Route 66 lore but also the reputed birthplace of the modern corn dog. Other stops penciled in but scratched included Pizza Machine, a restaurant where giant pizzas are lowered by crane, and Knight's Action Park and Caribbean Water Adventure, a massive kid's entertainment complex.

Next time, maybe. For this weekend, the kids were happy to meet a hero.

See a gallery of photos at chicagotribune.com/lincolnsites.

If you go

Lincoln's New Salem State Historic Site, 15588 History Lane, Petersburg, Ill., 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily through Sept. 15; Wednesday through Sunday through October. 217-632-4000, lincolnsnewsalem.com

Abraham Lincoln Library and Presidential Museum, 112-212 N. Sixth St., 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. The same hours on weekends are for exhibit viewing only. Fees apply. 800-610-2094, alplm.org

Lincoln Home visitor center, 426 S. Seventh St., 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. In busy periods, the required free tickets may run out. 217-391-3226, nps.gov/liho/index.htm

Lincoln Tomb, 1500 Monument Ave. in Oak Ridge Cemetery. After Labor Day, hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. 217-782-2717, state.il.us/hpa/hs/lincoln_tomb.htm

Old State Capitol, Springfield town square. Hours are seasonal. 217-785-9363, oldstatecapitol.org/osc.htm


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Illinois roadwork suspended for Labor Day travel

Illinois roadwork suspended for Labor Day travel
SPRINGFIELD — Illinois' transportation department is suspending road construction where possible to ease traffic congestion on the busy Labor Day weekend.

Acting Transportation Secretary Ann Schneider says advance notice of construction-zone status will help thousands of motorists plan trips and travel safely.

Starting at 3 p.m. Friday, transportation officials will suspend all non-emergency road work and open up all lanes where possible through Monday night.

Some construction zones will still have closed lanes.

Officials are urging motorists to slow down, obey speed limits and drive with caution. Work zone speed limits are still in effect where posted, even if no workers are present.

In addition, Illinois State Police are warning motorists there will be a lot of troopers on the roadways over the Labor Day weekend looking for drivers under the influence.

State Police Director Hiram Grau says troopers will be also on the lookout for speeders and those drivers not wearing seat belts. Also, troopers, some with drug sniffing dogs, will be on the expressways in search of motorists trying to bring illegal drugs into the state.

Also, the company that operates the Indiana Toll Road has suspended all road projects through the Labor Day weekend.

ITR Concession Co. says it has removed all mainline lane restrictions during the Labor Day weekend to ease travel during the unofficial end-of-summer holiday. Construction projects will resume Wednesday.


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Green Day singer says he's latest airline passenger to be tossed for too-low trousers

OAKLAND, Calif. (AP) — Green Day front man Billie Joe Armstrong says his sagging pants cost him a seat on a Southwest Airlines flight.

The singer-guitarist for the San Francisco Bay area band sent a message to his Twitter followers on Thursday expressing his indignation at being tossed from an Oakland-to-Burbank flight for wearing his trousers too low.

"Just got kicked off a southwest flight because my pants sagged too low! What the f(asterisk)(asterisk)(asterisk)? No joke!" he wrote.

An ABC7 news producer who was on the same flight told the station that a flight attendant approached Armstrong as the plane was getting ready to take off and asked him to hike his pants higher. The producer, Cindy Qiu, says Armstrong initially responded by asking the attendant if there weren't "better things to do than worry about that?"

But the attendant persisted and told Armstrong he could be ejected for his refusal to comply. When Armstrong insisted he was just trying to get to his seat, he and a traveling companion were taken off the plane.

Southwest spokesman Brad Hawkins released a statement saying Armstrong was allowed onto the next flight to Burbank and had told a customer relations agent who contacted him he had no further complaints.

"As soon as we became aware of what had happened, we reached out to apologize for this Customer's experience," the statement read. "He elected to take the next flight. We followed up with this Customer and involved Employees to get more details and, in our latest conversations, understand from the Customer the situation was resolved to his satisfaction."

A University of New Mexico football player was arrested at San Francisco International Airport in June when he allegedly refused a U.S. Airways attendant request for him to pull up his low-riding pants and, later, the captain's order to leave the plane.

The player, Deshon Marman, was held on suspicion of trespassing, battery of a police officer and obstruction of a police investigation when he allegedly resisted the officer who escorted him from the plane. But the San Mateo County district attorney refused to bring charges.

The incident sparked allegations of racial profiling after a photo surfaced of a man who flew aboard a US Airways flight wearing skimpy women's panties and mid-thigh stockings days before Marman's arrest. That man was white. Marman is African-American.


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