A grand place on the North Shore of Lake Superior

GRAND MARAIS, Minn. — Sandwiched between the magnificence of Lake Superior and the Sawtooth Mountains, Grand Marais seems ho-hum. But don't let its disheveled downtown deceive. This is one of the best bases for exploring the North Shore. Stay in a hotel overlooking the lake, stroll to a gourmet dinner, shop at an art gallery or a classic five-and-dime, and explore the outdoors. The town may not have the charm of Lutsen's clapboard lodge or the flash of Naniboujou Lodge's painted dining room, but in the end it wows as much as the surrounding scenery.

THE BASICS:

Tucked against Lake Superior, Grand Marais, population 1,351, was once a sleepy fishing village. All that's changed, in part because it occupies one of the most scenic spots along the Arrowhead. At the edge of town, a windblown spit of land juts out into the lake, helping to form a big bay and a calm harbor, so the town looks embraced by Superior.

Get tourist information at http://www.grandmarais.com.

WHAT TO DO:

The Gunflint Trail — which cuts inland to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area and where moose sometimes wander onto the road — begins its winding way in Grand Marais, but you don't really need to drive along that road to feel lost among the elements. Instead, take a walk along the bay beach to Artists' Point, the peninsula of rock and pine trees that juts out into Superior. It's the locals' go-to hike.

If you want more miles, not to mention views, of the lake, head just outside of town to Pincushion Mountain Trail System (www.pincushion trails.org). Or pop onto the Superior Hiking Trail (www.shta .org) from a number of entry points near Grand Marais.

Perhaps you'd rather hike from store to store downtown. The Sivertson Gallery (www.sivertson.com) offers warm tea for sipping while browsing its collection of works from Inuit, Alaskan and regional artists. The locally made jewelry is nice eye candy, too.

Joynes Ben Franklin Department Store can hook you up with everything from Uggs and Carhartts to Barbie dolls and Norwegian sweaters (joynesbenfranklin.com).

With its diminutive size and purple shutters next to the beach, Drury Lane Books looks like a fairytale house (www.drurylanebooks.com). That's appropriate given its small but spellbinding collection of books for children and adults.

Around the harbor bend from downtown is the North House Folk School, a collection of clapboard buildings where artisans preserve northern crafts by teaching hands-on classes (www.northhouse.org). Subjects include knitting, kayak-making and surprises such as "deer processing for carnivorous locavores." Visitors are welcome to explore the campus and stop by the gift shop.

HIDDEN TREASURE:

If you're in need of gear — or inspiration — check out Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply (www.stoneharborws.com) on the bay. The hot spot for outdoor sports opened in June 2010 and has been selling and renting essential supplies — and some unusual cool outdoor toys — ever since.

In the summer, there are kayaks, canoes and paddleboards. But when snow flies, this place becomes the cutting edge of winter fun. You can rent the usual cross-country skis and snowshoes. But you can also rent — or buy — Wintergreen clothing (beyond warm and pricey to own), Snowtrekker winter tents and the wood-burning stoves to keep them cozy, and Marquette skis, a sort of ski-snowshoe hybrid that lets you hike up a snowy trail and ski down the other side. Want some tips for your first time? Snow Harbor offers guided outings.

The place also sells nordic skates, which are specialized blades that attach to cross-country ski boots and are made for gliding over the bumps and cracks of frozen rivers and lakes. It's your route to explore the Boundary Waters by skate.

WHERE TO EAT:

Judi Barsness not only cooks exceptional meals at her sophisticated harborside restaurant, Chez Jude, she also teaches others how to do the same by offering cooking classes (www.chezjude.com; closed in November and April). At Crooked Spoon Cafe, inventive, delicious dinners include Lake Superior fish with cucumber-corn relish (www.crooked spooncafe.com; closed after today until Dec. 27). For live music and chili with a micro-brew beer, head to Gun Flint Tavern (www.gunflinttavern.com). Breakfasts are divine at the Pie Place (www.northshorepieplace.com); don't miss the maple sausage.

WHERE TO SLEEP:

Only in Grand Marais' website (www.grandmarais.com) offers links to a variety of lodging options, from cabins to B&Bs. I've enjoyed East Bay Suites, with luxury units that have sleek kitchens, stone fireplaces and expansive views of the lake just beyond the balcony (www.eastbaysuites.com).

GETTING THERE:

Grand Marais is northeast of Duluth, Minn., on Lake Superior, along Hwy. 61. The drive from the Minneapolis/ St. Paul takes about 4 12/2 hours.

View the original article here

Grand, historic hotels build on their brand in shaky economy

DIXVILLE NOTCH, N.H. (AP) — The signature green and white china is packed, the Adirondack chairs are stored away and the corridor lights are dimmed.

The Balsams Grand Resort Hotel in the forests of northern New Hampshire — a remote destination nestled in a mountain pass for lovers of the great outdoors, fine dining and turn-of-the-century elegance — is closed for now. How long is anyone's guess.

The nearly 150-year-old hotel in Dixville Notch is known for its Ballot Room, where residents of the tiny community are the first to cast their votes for president at midnight on New Hampshire's primary day and on the nation's Election Day. Put up for sale in July 2010, it is awaiting the right suitor. It closed on Sept. 14.

"It's a sparkle in our life," said Bruno Ponterio, 80, a retired school principal from Rye Brook, N.Y. He and his wife, Joann, spent their honeymoon at the resort during the summer of 1959, impressed by the views, the service, and the cuisine. They have returned through the years with their children, including their 50th anniversary two years ago.

The Tillotson family, whose patriarch ran a rubber factory and is credited with inventing the latex balloon, has owned the resort since 1954. Before he died in 2001 at age 102, Neil Tillotson specified that the resort and other assets be sold or given away and the proceeds given to charities. But the hotel has been operating at a loss for years, and the money has been coming out of the assets of a family trust.

The resort, with its mix of Victorian and Alpine village architectural influences, can accommodate up to 400 guests. They can dine on sweep-around verandas with views of a circular flower garden, swimming pool, Lake Gloriette, and the notch.

The resort's board of directors is looking for a new owner who can modernize the property — there have been some renovations, but not a major overhaul since a new wing was added in the early 1900s — and preserve its past, a balance that many hotels of a certain age and stature are working to maintain.

Historic hotels around the country are facing more competitive pressure these days, continually trying to engage in new marketing campaigns to attract customers, said Thierry Roch, executive director of Historic Hotels of America, a program of the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

"They're in the same boat as all other hotels, they're struggling to find business during a time when companies are cutting back on corporate travel, group business is reduced," Roch said. "But the advantage is there is more awareness in the market for historic hotels. They've got a name, they've got a reputation, they've got the word of mouth."

Some historic hotels are continuing to perform very well in this economy, Roch said. Others seeing reduced occupancies have looked to reinvest in their hotels, improving the roof or heating, ventilation and air conditioning, for example, to make them more attractive to future customers.

At The Balsams, where hallways showcase old photos and anecdotes — including a spoon in a picture frame about a guilt-ridden woman who returned the utensil many years after honeymooning there — there's been talk about putting in a new roof, insulation and windows. While occupancy rates have been good, one concern is improving energy efficiency. The hotel runs on steam heat generated by a biomass plant that was used in past years to run Neil Tillotson's nearby factory.

"That's our biggest cost other than our labor, and so it's tough to compete as a hotel, it's tough to make the bottom line work, when your energy costs are so high," said Jeff McIver, The Balsams' president and general manager. "That's one of the factors of why we're not profitable, and to fix that is a major undertaking."

He said directors of the family-based trust fund that owns the resort have been studying alternative fuel sources, such as geothermal technology.

Another historic hotel, the Mountain View Grand in New Hampshire's White Mountains, was built in 1865, fell into disrepair and closed during the 1980s but reopened in 2002 after a multimillion-dollar rebirth. One of the additions was a wind turbine operation that provides all of the hotel's electricity. It does save money and managers believe it is a good way to be more environmentally sustainable, said Gene Ehlert, marketing manager.

Historic hotel owners have long recognized the need to pair modern conveniences with a sense of returning to an earlier era.

"They wanted all the amenities; they wanted all the bells and whistles," said Cathy Bedor, who was in a partnership that owned New Hampshire's Mount Washington Hotel for 15 years before selling it to a company in 2006. "But they wanted to have the flavor of stepping back in time, and that was exactly what we tried to do."

The Mount Washington was built in 1902. When Bedor and the other partners bought the hotel at auction in 1991, they worked to restore it to its original luster by studying the carpeting in antique postcards, reading old newspaper accounts that described the guestrooms, and stripping layers of paint on the brass chandeliers to show them as they were back in the early 1900s.

Bedor, who runs the Mount Washington Cog Railway, a train that climbs to the top of the Northeast's highest peak, said the Bretton Woods hotel had a lot of interest because it was the site of an historic conference in 1944 that laid the groundwork for theInternational Monetary Fund and World Bank.

"If it hadn't been for that, I'm not sure that there would have been such a hue and cry when there was discussion about maybe tearing the property down because certainly, it's much more expensive to keep it operating than if you were to start from scratch," Bedor said.

The Ponterios, who have spent weeklong summer vacations at The Balsams for 35 years, love the caring, attentive staff and the sophisticated dining room and gourmet meals. They like swimming and paddle-boating — or doing nothing at all.

"I'm not unhappy that there's no TV in the room," Ponterio said. "You'd think that you'd miss it, but you don't." Guests are encouraged to take a book home with them from libraries in the guestrooms and bring one back when they return.

The Balsams offered a Grand Adventure Plan for the summer starting at $209 per person, based on double occupancy and including meals, golf, boating, and other activities. Its winter plan including meals and skiing started at $199 per person.

One luxury resort dating back to 1778, The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, W. Va., furloughed about 650 workers in 2009 amid a sharp decline in business and sought Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection to stay afloat. The former gathering place for presidents and site of an underground Cold War nuclear bunker for Congress re-emerged with new owner Jim Justice. He introduced a PGA tournament, built a casino and steakhouse, and added new touches to old traditions — such as the "Greenbrier Waltz" and other musical performances by staff in period dress — to accompany afternoon teas. Revenue and occupancy rates are on their way back up, saidLynn Swann, director of public relations.

The Greenbrier offers a variety of seasonal and holiday packages. Its two-night Discover Package featuring outdoor activities starts at $369 per night based on double occupancy.

At the Jekyll Island Club Hotel in Georgia, managing partner Kevin Runner said lower occupancy has caused revenues to be about 15 to 20 percent below normal over the last few years. Part of the challenge is that the hotel, built in the 1880s and renovated 25 years ago, is in a state park that's been under renovations for at least a year. A new convention center, shops and other hotels are planned at the island.

"We aren't experiencing downturn year after year," Runner said. "We went down to a certain wall and then we just kind of stayed there and hovered around that same level the last couple of years."

Depending on the building and room, the Jekyll's base rates through Nov. 26 range from $189 in a single room to $439 for the Presidential Suite.

In New Hampshire, the Ponterios hope to be able to book another summer vacation at The Balsams next year, sitting by their favorite spot alongside the pool. They realize a new owner may renovate the place — but they like the Old World charm as is.

As Mrs. Ponterio told her husband: "The one place I see where you relax and you're not concerned about anything is when you go to The Balsams."

View the original article here

The grand castles of Mad King Ludwig

Touristic, glorious and romantic, some of Germany's best attractions are in Bavaria. My favorites are three of King Ludwig II's castles: stocky Hohenschwangau, his boyhood home; the nearby and fanciful Neuschwanstein, his dream escape; and Linderhof, his final retreat.

Ludwig was just 19 when he became king of Bavaria in 1864. Rather than live with the frustrations of a modern constitution and a feisty parliament reining him in, he spent his years lost in Romantic literature and Wagnerian operas. From his bedroom in Hohenschwangau, Ludwig trained a telescope on a ridge to keep an eye on Neuschwanstein as it was being constructed.

On my last visit, I peered through that telescope at Neuschwanstein Castle (which inspired another boy, named Disney). I could relate to the teen-king Ludwig. As a kid bound by schoolwork and house rules, and with a stretched-out turtleneck and zits rather than crowns and composer friends, I too had built a castle: a treehouse with a shiny roof. It was the envy of other little kings in my neighborhood.

Then, at age 18, I made my first independent trip to Europe. I toured Ludwig's postcard-perfect Neuschwanstein and saw firsthand just how big, dramatic and over the top a "real" fairy-tale castle could be. Ludwig's extravagance and romanticism earned him the title Mad King Ludwig.

With towering turrets in a striking setting, these castles are a huge hit with sightseers. Every tour bus in Bavaria converges on Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau, while tourists pour in each morning by train from Munich, two hours away. Like the wave of a magic wand, a handy reservation system with set admission times sorts out the chaos for smart travelers (ticket-center-hohenschwangau.de).

Ludwig put his Neuschwanstein on a hilltop not for defensive reasons but simply because he liked the view. The castle, which is about as old as the Eiffel Tower, is a textbook example of 19th century Romanticism. After the Middle Ages, people disparagingly named that era "Gothic," meaning barbarian. Then, all of a sudden, in the 1800s, it was hip to be square, and neo-Gothic became the rage. Throughout Europe, old castles were restored and new ones built, wallpapered with chivalry.

The lavish interior, covered with damsels in distress, dragons and knights in gleaming armor, is enchanting. Ludwig had great taste for a "mad" king. Germany became a single united country only in 1871. As if to bolster its legitimacy, the young nation dug deep into its murky medieval past. These heroes and legends inspired young Ludwig in decorating his fanciful castles.

Sitting at the foot of the hill, Hohenschwangau Castle is more lived-in and historic, offering an excellent look at Ludwig's life (with fewer crowds). Originally built in the 12th century, it was ruined by Napoleon. Ludwig's father rebuilt it, and you'll see it as it looked in 1836. The walls of the beautifully painted rooms are slathered with the epic myths and exotic decoration of 19th century Romanticism.

The homiest of Ludwig's castles is the small and comfortably exquisite Linderhof, set in the woods 15 minutes from Oberammergau, the Shirley Temple of Bavarian villages (a 45-minute drive from Hohenschwangau). Surrounded by fountains and sculpted, Italian-style gardens, it's the only place I've toured that actually had me feeling palace envy.

Ludwig lived much of his last eight years at Linderhof. Frustrated by the limits of being a constitutional monarch, he retreated here, inhabiting a private fantasy world where his lavishness glorified his otherwise weakened kingship. He lived as a royal hermit; his dinner table, pre-set with dishes and food, rose from the kitchen below into his dining room so he could eat alone.

Beyond the palace is Ludwig's grotto, a private theater for the reclusive king to enjoy his beloved Wagnerian operas; he usually was the sole member of the audience. The grotto features a waterfall, fake stalactites and a swan boat floating on an artificial lake. The first electricity in Bavaria was generated here, to change the colors of the stage lights and to power Ludwig's fountain and wave machine.

My preferred home base for exploring Bavaria's castles is Reutte, actually in the Austrian district of Tirol. If you have a car, this area offers maximum charm and good value. Fussen, in Germany, is a handier home base for train travelers.

Ludwig was king for 23 years. In 1886, fed up with his extravagances, royal commissioners declared him mentally unfit to rule Bavaria. Days later, he was found dead in a lake. People still debate whether it was murder or suicide. But no one complains anymore about the cost of Ludwig's castles. Within six weeks of his funeral, tourists were paying to see the castles, and they're still coming.

Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.

View the original article here