Saturday, July 2, 2011

Travel -: Wireless hotel charges make you want to stay home

Travel -
Headlines from

Wireless hotel charges make you want to stay home
28 Jun 2011, 8:00 am

As I reviewed my hotel bill at Harveys Lake Tahoe recently, I noticed something unusual: Instead of charging me $11 a day for wireless Internet, they were asking for three times as much.

"This can't be right," I told the clerk.

She called a manger, who firmly explained it was right -- Harveys charges for wireless access not by room, but by device. Although it isn't disclosed on its website, it is on the terms and conditions when you log in. I had glossed over it when I got online.

As for reducing my bill, the manager was equally firm in his "no": The property outsourced its Internet to another company, and if I didn't pay, Harveys would be on the hook for the full amount. The bill was paid, but I'm still puzzled that it could cost more to check email than to park my car.

A survey by market research firm BDRC suggests wireless Internet costs British hotel guests $2.2 billion a year. Best Western, which offers free wireless access, released those numbers last week along with a petition to give guests free access.

The average hotel guest now pays an average of $22 for wireless access, according to BDRC. The study also noted that some hotels that used to offer free access have now reverted to a paid model. At the same time, the need for a reliable wireless connection has "surged" in recent years, according to Tim Sander, BDRC's research director.

I get it. Hotels need to make money, and if they can tack on a $10 fee for "optional" Internet, why not? What I don't get -- and what the survey doesn't address -- is how hotels can become so aggressive about the fees. I mean, charging by device seems a little outrageous. Can it get any worse than that?

As a matter of fact, it can. Teresita Barnett stayed at a Hilton property in Taormina, Sicily, recently and was charged $10 per hour.

"What was even more outrageous is that I had to use up all the minutes in one go, or lose whatever is left over," she remembers.

Elizabeth Moore stayed at a New Orleans hotel that wanted to charge her a $7 "start fee" for getting online.

"It was outrageous," she says. "I just found the public library and went there to check email."

That's a lot of outrage.

What troubles me is that hotels don't seem to be listening to their guests when they revert to a pay-for-access model and get aggressive about maximizing their revenue. Most hotel guests need a clear, fast wireless signal and they'd prefer it to be included in their room rate. Guests who prefer not to "subsidize" wireless access can always stay at hotels that charge to get online -- there will always be a few that do.

Saying "no" enough times to over-the-top wireless surcharges may send a message to the hotel industry. In the meantime, you may have to get creative with a workaround.

When technology writer Dave Taylor discovered the Wynn in Las Vegas charges not by room for Internet access, but by computer, he rigged a portable WiFi router that he plugged into the Ethernet jack in his room. Taylor used it as a base station for Internet access.

"It let all six of our devices go online with a single access point," he wrote.

I'll have to remember that the next time I'm at Harveys.

(Christopher Elliott is the author of the upcoming book "Scammed: How to Save Your Money and Find Better Service in a World of Schemes, Swindles, and Shady Deals" (Wiley). He's also the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine and the co-founder of the Consumer Travel Alliance, a nonprofit organization that advocates for travelers. You can read more tips on his blog, elliott.org or e-mail him at chris@elliott.org).

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Travel -: Wi-Fi hotel charges that make you want to stay home

Travel -
Headlines from

Wi-Fi hotel charges that make you want to stay home
28 Jun 2011, 8:00 am

As I reviewed my hotel bill at Harveys Lake Tahoe recently, I noticed something unusual: Instead of charging me $11 a day for wireless Internet, they were asking for three times as much.

"This can't be right," I told the clerk.

She called a manger, who firmly explained it was right -- Harveys charges for wireless access not by room, but by device. Although it isn't disclosed on its website, it is on the terms and conditions when you log in. I had glossed over it when I got online.

As for reducing my bill, the manager was equally firm in his "no": The property outsourced its Internet to another company, and if I didn't pay, Harveys would be on the hook for the full amount. The bill was paid, but I'm still puzzled that it could cost more to check email than to park my car.

A survey by market research firm BDRC suggests wireless Internet costs British hotel guests $2.2 billion a year. Best Western, which offers free wireless access, released those numbers last week along with a petition to give guests free access.

The average hotel guest now pays an average of $22 for wireless access, according to BDRC. The study also noted that some hotels that used to offer free access have now reverted to a paid model. At the same time, the need for a reliable wireless connection has "surged" in recent years, according to Tim Sander, BDRC's research director.

I get it. Hotels need to make money, and if they can tack on a $10 fee for "optional" Internet, why not? What I don't get -- and what the survey doesn't address -- is how hotels can become so aggressive about the fees. I mean, charging by device seems a little outrageous. Can it get any worse than that?

As a matter of fact, it can. Teresita Barnett stayed at a Hilton property in Taormina, Sicily, recently and was charged $10 per hour.

"What was even more outrageous is that I had to use up all the minutes in one go, or lose whatever is left over," she remembers.

Elizabeth Moore stayed at a New Orleans hotel that wanted to charge her a $7 "start fee" for getting online.

"It was outrageous," she says. "I just found the public library and went there to check email."

That's a lot of outrage.

What troubles me is that hotels don't seem to be listening to their guests when they revert to a pay-for-access model and get aggressive about maximizing their revenue. Most hotel guests need a clear, fast wireless signal and they'd prefer it to be included in their room rate. Guests who prefer not to "subsidize" wireless access can always stay at hotels that charge to get online -- there will always be a few that do.

Saying "no" enough times to over-the-top wireless surcharges may send a message to the hotel industry. In the meantime, you may have to get creative with a workaround.

When technology writer Dave Taylor discovered the Wynn in Las Vegas charges not by room for Internet access, but by computer, he rigged a portable WiFi router that he plugged into the Ethernet jack in his room. Taylor used it as a base station for Internet access.

"It let all six of our devices go online with a single access point," he wrote.

I'll have to remember that the next time I'm at Harveys.

(Christopher Elliott is the author of the upcoming book "Scammed: How to Save Your Money and Find Better Service in a World of Schemes, Swindles, and Shady Deals" (Wiley). He's also the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine and the co-founder of the Consumer Travel Alliance, a nonprofit organization that advocates for travelers. You can read more tips on his blog, elliott.org or e-mail him at chris@elliott.org).

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Travel -: Customers hate airlines -- Who knew?

Travel -
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Customers hate airlines -- Who knew?
28 Jun 2011, 8:00 am

"Airlines earn lousy grades for customer service." If that headline surprises you, you must have just arrived from another planet. Airlines are near the top of just about everybody's "hate" list, and for good reason. That fact, in itself, doesn't help you much in deciding which airline to take on your next trip. But it may provide some useful clues about the future.

The most recent headlines came from the impeccably credentialed folks at American Consumer Satisfaction Index (ACSI), who have been studying consumer satisfaction across a broad spectrum of American industries since 1994. The June report covers full-service restaurants, hotels, limited-service restaurants, airlines, and express delivery services. And this year's results aren't good for the airlines: As a group, they scored 65 on a scale of 100, compared with scores of 77 to 84 for the other industry segments. Even the Post Office, at 74, outscored the airlines. ACSI notes that, for the year, airlines tied newspapers for the lowest scores among all 47 industries studied.

As is often the case, individual airline scores showed a sizable variation. Southwest, at 81, earned top spot, and the "all others" category, which includes mainly smaller lines, came in second at a respectable 76. But the "big five" legacy lines didn't do so well: American, Continental, United, and US Airways were bunched at 61 to 64, and Delta brought up the bottom with a dismal 56.

These figures should come as no surprise. Just about every similar scoring puts Southwest, along with "other" lines Alaska, JetBlue, and Virgin America, well ahead of the big five. By now, you should have seen the picture: If you have a choice, you'll probably have a better experience on a high-scoring line than on one of the bottom feeders.

But the comparisons with other industries reveal something else about air travel. Overall, as I've been saying for years, even if nothing goes wrong, flying in coach/economy class is generally a miserable experience -- high miserable on the better lines, low miserable on the rest. But year after year most of you put up with it: You grumble, you grouse, you complain, but you don't change your buying behavior. And I believe that's because you buy air travel in a fundamentally different way from the way you buy other products and services. Think a minute -- is there any other important marketplace where you search so diligently for the cheapest available option, without regard to quality? Certainly not with other travel services: You don't all stay at Motel 6, for example, and you don't all rent Chevrolet Aveos. In other segments, you recognize the value of something better than rock bottom. But I propose a reason for the difference in approach. Providing you with a minimally acceptable coach seat would increase an airline's cost by about 40 percent per ticket. Even worse, airlines that actually do provide those seats -- in premium economy -- typically charge double the cheapest fare. And, for most of you, flying in a comfortable seat for five or six hours just isn't worth an extra $400 or so. That's the hard fact -- and the reason you can't expect any improvements any time soon.

Now let's look briefly at the other travel-related scores:

-- The overall hotel group scored 77, with comparatively little variation from top (Hilton at 80 and Marriott and Starwood at 79) to bottom (Choice at 74 and Wyndham at 73). The ACSI release doesn't indicate any special insights other than "you get what you pay for." The higher end chains earned the top scores.

-- Full-service restaurants did well, overall, at an aggregate 81, with comparatively little variation from top ("All others," probably meaning nonchain outfits, Olive Garden, and stablemate Red Lobster at 82) to bottom (Outback Steakhouse at 81 and Chili's at 79). My guess is that variation isn't statistically significant -- you like them all.

-- Fast food did almost as well, with an average of 79, but wider variation from Pizza Hut, Little Caesar's, and Starbuck's at 80 to 81 to McDonald's at 72. Even at 72, however, McDonald's beat the big five airlines.

(Send e-mail to Ed Perkins at eperkins@mind.net. Perkins' new book for small business and independent professionals, "Business Travel When It's Your Money," is now available through www.mybusinesstravel.com or www.amazon.com).

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Travel -: Private sale websites are growing fast

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Private sale websites are growing fast
28 Jun 2011, 8:00 am

How many private sale websites can the market absorb? So far the answer is "10 and counting." At my last tally, I have 10 private sale websites logged on my "favorites" list that either specialize in travel or feature travel along with merchandise. What I can't tell yet is whether you can expect even more players in the future or a shakeout among those already playing.

All 10 follow the same basic business model: You sign up or "enroll" in the program -- usually with no fee or payment required -- and receive regular email notices about time-limited discount offers and promotions:

-- Seven of the sites -- Jetsetter (www.jetsetter.com), Spire (www.spire.com), SinqueAway (www.sniqueaway.com), Tablet Hotels (www.tablethotels.com), TripAlertz (www.tripalertz.com), Vacationist (www.vacationist.com) and Voyage Prive (www.voyageprive.com) -- concentrate almost exclusively on travel.

-- The other three -- Groupon (www.groupon.com), Hautelook (www.hautelook.com), and RueLaLa (www.ruelala.com) include some travel services along with merchandise and other services.

Several sites make an ostensible fuss that you have to be "recommended" for membership, but getting into the system is the least of your worries: They all want your money.

With the exception of Groupon, virtually all of the travel deals are for high-end hotels and resorts, worldwide, and the non-travel offers are for high-end clothing, household items, and other goods. Typically, each posting includes several currently "open" deals plus teasers about offers coming up in the near future. Discounts from advertised rates are usually around 30 percent, but occasionally go much higher. The purchase window is usually no longer than a week and sometimes even shorter, but the travel offers give you several months to make your visit.

I've seen a few non-hotel deals -- notably a cruise or two, but not much else. Certainly no airfare deals and I didn't see any rental cars. Groupon, however, does list some local sightseeing excursions.

Although all of these sites work in about the same way, two are a bit different:

-- Spire, which just went online last week, claims to be a "second generation" private sale site in that it (1) promises the lowest price, (2) pledges to deliver at least 30 percent off the lowest comparable offer found anywhere else, and (3) allows easy cancellations for up to 72 hours after a trip is booked, minus a $29 fee.

-- TripAlertz follows the group-buying model that the discount increases as more of you sign up for it.

Why no airfares? Basically, the airlines want to do their own price manipulations and run their own promotions, thank you. In the future, however, I wouldn't be surprised to see some discounts on business-class or first-class flights on private sale sites -- with all sorts of advance-purchase and length-of-stay restrictions. But I doubt you'll ever see much in coach/economy class. Similarly, with rental cars, you might see some deals on premium luxury car and sports car rentals, but probably nothing on mainstream rentals.

At this point, it's far too early to predict how this market niche will develop. Usually, when a market matures, you wind up with only three or four major players. For now, among the all-travel sites, the biggest players seem to be Jetsetter, SniqueAway and Vacationist. I wouldn't be a bit surprised to see a few more outfits try the private sale model, either, but at some point you have to wonder if they'll all get enough good product to survive.

One of the pitches to hotels and resorts is that the big discounts they give through private sale sites result in new impulse-purchase business that they'd never otherwise be able to attract. The few industry analyses I've seen tend to confirm this point. For that reason, private sale sites are virtually useless if you're looking for a good deal in an area you've already decided to visit at a time you've already planned. But if you'd like sudden inspiration for something different, give them a try -- there's nothing to lose for just looking.

(Send e-mail to Ed Perkins at eperkins@mind.net. Perkins' new book for small business and independent professionals, "Business Travel When It's Your Money," is now available through www.mybusinesstravel.com or www.amazon.com).

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Travel -: The war between the tastes in BBQ

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The war between the tastes in BBQ
28 Jun 2011, 9:14 pm

SHELBY, N.C. â€" I've been breathing North Carolina air for two hours, and already I've come to the realization: Here, much like the rest of the South, "barbecue" is a noun and not a transitive verb.

What's more, in Seattle (where I was raised), Los Angeles (where I went to college) and Chicago (where I reside), "barbecue" is, if anything, a flavor. Barbecue sauce, barbecue potato chips, barbecue chicken pizza. In 90 percent of America, barbecue connotes KC Masterpiece. It could also be an adjective, and it's usually implied that somebody else is doing the barbecuing, as if it were a service industry like dry cleaning.

So I get the sense that the statement "I'm eating barbecue" has as much specificity here in Shelby, N.C., as "I'm eating spaghetti carbonara."

What's more, there exists a culture war in North Carolina, a divide as vast as the state is wide. In the "eastern North Carolina" style, the hog is smoked whole. Meat from all parts of the pig, including crispy bits of rind, is chopped into a hash of pork textures. The sauce has a base of vinegar and peppers.

Here, in Shelby, it is Piedmont style. The German settlers in the area added ketchup to eastern sauce, and the added sugar gave the sauce a sweet-and-sour profile familiar in German cooking. Rather than using the whole hog, shoulder is the favored cut of pork in the west â€" an inexpensive cut but with a fattiness that lessens the chances that the meat will dry out.

The squabbling goes on today, and really, it's over that lone ingredient.

A friend and I spent two days traversing the western part of North Carolina to sample its particular definition of barbecue.

We arrive in Shelby, a 45-minute straight shot west of Charlotte, on the periphery of Piedmont barbecue country. Jackie Bridges, a columnist at the local daily, The Shelby Star, agreed to meet for lunch at Red Bridges Barbecue Lodge.

There are plenty of Bridgeses living in Shelby. Jackie's husband, Bruce, is a distant fourth cousin of the family that owns Red Bridges Barbecue Lodge, which has been smoking pork for some 60 years. People in Shelby seem to head to one of two places: Bridges Barbecue Lodge or Alston Bridges â€" indeed, yet another Bridges of Shelby in the pork-smoking trade. "A friendly rivalry," Jackie said.

Jackie and Bruce say they prefer Lodge over Alston. They have arguments with friends from Lexington â€" considered the cradle of Piedmont barbecue 80 miles northeast of here â€" about which town serves better barbecue. Zoom farther out, and they fight over Piedmont versus eastern style ("I was just in Raleigh," Bruce says, "and their barbecue is terrible"). Soon, they're defending North Carolina 'cue against the rest of America. No matter what geographic level, there's a friendly argument to be made, a nesting doll of divisions, always with two competing sides. And the folks in Shelby just happen to think they have points won on every rung. They take this belief as gospel.

Other than updating seats from an ugly green to a less-ugly turquoise, Bridges Barbecue Lodge is frozen in 1960s amber. Out back behind a white fence, hickory logs are stacked 5 feet high in a neat row that stretches 40 yards. A wiser man who knows more about barbecue than I told me: "If you don't see a pile of wood in the back, turn around."

Back inside, we sit in a corner circular booth. Jackie and Bruce order pitchers of sweet tea for the table, de rigueur in this part of the world. It is one notch over sweet, but the melted ice corrects the pitchers to just-perfect.

The hush puppies resemble tamarind â€" long pods of dense and crispy fried cornmeal batter, a touch sweet and addictive. I meet Jeanette Ross, who tells me she remembers the first day the restaurant offered hush puppies â€" half a century ago.

I dunk a hush puppy into the house sauce, the first time I've sampled proper Piedmont-style dip. The whiff of vinegar is so pungent it snaps my head back. Then I taste it: There clearly is the concentrated sweetness of ketchup, giving way to tang, before the pepper afterburn, like a sauce performing in three movements. I realize then that the sauces I'm used to, the sweet tomato-based sauces one would find in Kansas City or Memphis, act as a complement: They take meats and bend the flavor to different angles and sometimes overwhelm it (or, in the hands of less capable pit masters, purposely hide it). The vinegar-based sauce here makes pork taste porkier. It operates like salt, as a flavor augmenter.

The inclusion of tomato, an eternal debate among Tar Heelers, is then less about philosophical differences than a matter of personal preference. Do you like your sauce with a hue of red?

The chopped pork is tremendous, but the greater thrill is tasting "outside brown," the crispy, hickory smoke-hardened exterior layer of meat. This is the starting point where all seasoning begins its long journey inward. The ketchup/vinegar-spiked coleslaw, a brighter, crunchier version of its mayo-based brethren, is a proper accompaniment as opposed to a side dish.

The next day, we drive northeast toward Lexington, the heart of Piedmont country. Low on the list of arguments among the barbecue cognoscenti here is debating chopped versus pulled.

We spent the afternoon dining at Richard's Bar-B-Q in Salisbury. Here, meat is offered in two forms: chopped to a mishmash pork chaw or hand-pulled into ropes of meat.

It's essentially two presentations of the same pork shoulder, but somehow each tastes different. With chopped, the texture is uniformly moist, the porcine flavors immediate. Pulled pork seems to require more work. There's an additional three seconds of gnashing before the pork releases its juices, that intoxicating swine wine. And I've never found strings of pork that separate on the grain to be good conduits of flavor.

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Friday, July 1, 2011

Travel -: The toughest airline critics

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The toughest airline critics
28 Jun 2011, 9:11 pm

In its recently released look at the travel industry, the American Customer Satisfaction Index probably didn't surprise too many people by announcing that of the 47 industries it examines, airlines finished last, with a score of 65 out of 100 points.

What did surprise me was which travelers are most disenchanted with the airlines: business travelers.

David VanAmburg, managing director of the Ann Arbor, Mich.-based index, said the airline industry's low score largely can be traced to the "perception of being nickel-and-dimed," such as with bag fees.

But a perk of business travel is sticking such costs on the corporate credit card. Business travelers also are more likely to sit in an airplane's premier seating. Why, then, so disenchanted?

Frequency, VanAmburg said. "Business travelers are up against the complexities of the process more frequently," he said. "There are, therefore, greater opportunities for things to go wrong."

The consumer index, which rates companies based on 250 phone and email surveys per brand, reported an airline score of 64 from leisure travelers and 61 from business travelers â€" a statistically significant difference, VanAmburg said. (The overall 65 score takes other statistics into consideration.)

Southwest, with a score of 81, was the top-ranked airline for the 18th year in a row, most likely because its "policy of no baggage or change fees is paying dividends in satisfaction," according to the index. Southwest's nearest competitor was Continental (64), though that airline plunged 10 percentage points from last year. (Part of the reason for the dip likely is Continental's merger with United, VanAmburg said; mergers tend to affect brand perception negatively, though it often rebounds.)

He offered some sympathy for the airlines, however.

"It's such a complex process from the moment you book a flight online to picking up your bags at baggage claim," he explained. "The potential of things going wrong are so many. And you're captive for three hours on that flight."

The news was much better for hotels, which scored a total of 77, up from 75 last year and an all-time high for the industry. Hotels have succeeded because they are adding elements to the customer experience â€" extras such as free Wi-Fi, exercise rooms and improved room layouts â€" while charging only nominally more than before.

Upscale brands outperformed budget brands. Hilton (score of 80) was at the top for a fourth consecutive year, followed by Marriott and Starwood (both at 79).

Is there a lesson for the airlines in hotels' success?

"People appreciate transparency," VanAmburg said. "Take them seriously."

A sampling of the customer satisfaction Index 2011 scores

Airlines

Southwestâ€"81

Continentalâ€"64

Americanâ€"63

Unitedâ€"61

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Travel -: First individual Chinese tourists arrive in Taiwan amid steadily warming ties

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First individual Chinese tourists arrive in Taiwan amid steadily warming ties
28 Jun 2011, 1:38 pm

TAIPEI, Taiwan (AP) â€" The first individual Chinese tourists arrived in Taiwan on Tuesday amid steadily warming ties between the two sides that split amid civil war more than six decades ago.

Previously, Chinese tourists could only travel to Taiwan in groups, reflecting fears that without supervision they would overstay their standard 15-days visas, primarily to take advantage of the self-ruled island's relatively lucrative job market.

The first plane from China carrying individual tourists landed at Taipei's Songshan Airport around 10 a.m. (0200 GMT) after a short hop from Shanghai. Earlier another group had flown into the central Taiwanese city of Taichung following a short plane ride from the offshore Taiwanese island of Qinmen. That group, numbering about a dozen, had traveled to Qinmen by boat from the southern Chinese city of Xiamen.

Tuesday's individual tourist arrivals emphasize Taiwanese President Ma Ying-jeou's continuing efforts to forge closer China relations. The two sides split amid civil war in 1949.

During his three years in office, Ma has lowered tensions across the 100-mile (160-kilometer)-wide Taiwan Strait to their lowest level in six decades, leveraging expanding trade relations and increasing face-to-face contacts to turn the corner on his predecessor's pro-independence policies.

Despite the improving ties, Beijing continues to claim the island as part of its territory and remains committed to bringing about unification by persuasion if possible, by force if necessary.

Arriving at Songshan Airport on the flight from Qinmen, 43-year-old tour agency manager Ma Zhiqiang said he was looking forward to his visit as an individual, rather than in a group.

"When I came with a tour group before, we didn't have enough time to explore Taiwan," he said. "Now as an individual I'll be able to see more aspects of the island and get greater enjoyment out of the food and shopping."

Taiwanese officials say they hope increasing Chinese tourist arrivals will lead to a wider Chinese appreciation of Taiwan's democratic society, which contrasts markedly with the one-party system on the mainland. To encourage the trend Taiwanese lawmakers have even opened the island's legislature to Chinese visitors, though with better known attractions like Mount Ali and Sun Moon Lake vying for their time, it remains unclear how many will take them up on the offer.

Last year 1.6 million Chinese tourists visited Taiwan, adding some 61 billion New Taiwan dollars ($2 billion) to the island's coffers. Travel agencies say individual Chinese visitors will add another NT$5 billion ($172 million) during the remainder of 2011.

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Travel -: Texas lawmakers back watered-down airport groping bill

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Texas lawmakers back watered-down airport groping bill
28 Jun 2011, 1:36 pm

AUSTIN, Texas (AP) â€" Texas lawmakers gave their initial backing Monday to legislation that would criminalize intentional, inappropriate touching during airport security pat-downs, but it was so watered down it provoked angry outbursts from conservative activists, who decried it as toothless.

The new versions of the bill would still make it a misdemeanor punishable with up to a year in jail to touch a person's sexual organs and other sensitive areas. But now they give security officials a defense to prosecution if they act with "reasonable suspicion" that the search is necessary.

That change prompted chants of "Traitor!" by a small group of protesters in the Capitol rotunda shortly after the House cast a preliminary vote in favor of the bill.

The protesters then gathered in the Senate gallery and several called out "Treason!" to senators below. The Senate passed its version several hours after the protesters left.

The Republican-controlled chambers have until Wednesday to resolve several differences between their bills before sending one to Gov. Rick Perry to consider signing it into law.

Supporters of the bill complained the changes make the penalties unenforceable. Texas law already bans public servants from subjecting someone to a search he or she "knows is unlawful."

About two dozen people showed up to testify in support of the bill in the Senate Committee on Transportation and Homeland Security, then opposed it when they learned the bill was going to be changed on the recommendation of Texas Attorney General Greg Abbott, a Republican.

"The simple act of opting out of the body scanners is going to be reasonable suspicion," said Heather Fazio of Austin. "That is unacceptable."

Sen. Dan Patrick, R-Houston, defended the change, saying the bill still sends a strong message to Transportation Security Administration security screeners to keep their wandering hands off Texans.

Patrick noted that the TSA announced last week that it would try to reduce the number of pat-downs performed on children.

"The goal is to get the TSA to change their policy," Patrick said. "TSA is going change their policy because Texas is taking the lead."

TSA spokesman Greg Soule said Americans expect authorities to use "effective methods to keep the traveling public safe" and that the agency will review the bill if passed into law.

All of the testimony for the bill has concentrated on stories of people being searched and included no actual examples of TSA officers being reprimanded or disciplined for improper touching.

Although dismissed last week as a "publicity stunt" by Republican House Speaker Joe Straus, the issue has become a top priority for the libertarian wing of the Texas GOP.

Few Texas airports are equipped with full-body scanners, meaning there often is no other screening option for travelers picked out for what TSA calls an enhanced pat down. Opponents have simmered over procedures they consider a violation of their Constitutional right against unwarranted search and seizure.

Texas made it a full-blown fight with the TSA last month when the Texas House voted to criminalize intrusive pat-downs. That version appeared ready to pass the Senate until John E. Murphy, the U.S. attorney for the Western District of Texas, warned lawmakers that it would interfere with the TSA's ability to ensure travelers' safety.

Murphy's letter to legislators said if the original bill passed, the federal government would probably go to court to block it and the TSA would likely be required to cancel flights if it cannot ensure passenger safety.

TSA officials say advance imaging technology and pat downs are the most effective way to detect threats such as explosives made of plastics, liquids or gels designed to not be detected by traditional metal detectors.

The issue prompted some small but loud demonstrations outside the House and Senate chambers last month and many of them showed up again for Monday's vote. Texas Gov. Rick Perry, a Republican considering a run for president, added the pat-down bill to the agenda of the 30-day special session he called on May 31.

But the bill has lost significant momentum over the last week.

Straus appeared to strike a major blow against the original version of the bill when he warned it would hurt commercial aviation in Texas and would make the state a "laughingstock."

Monday's changes further eroded support.

"TSA is abusing people," said Don Hart of Austin, who opposed the new version approved Monday. "TSA will be empowered to keep doing what they are doing."

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Travel -: Some might call it the running of the fools

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Some might call it the running of the fools
28 Jun 2011, 8:08 pm

Each July a million revelers pack into Pamplona, Spain, for the raucous Festival of San Fermin. They come to this proud town in the Pyrenees foothills for music, fireworks and merrymaking. But most of all, they come for the Running of the Bulls, when fearless (or foolish) adventurers called mozos thrust themselves into the path of six furious bulls.

Originally celebrated as a saint's feast day, the festival now runs from July 6 through 14. Each morning at 8, the bulls are set loose on the city streets, with Spaniards across that nation following every twist and turn on television.

Mozos, like Spanish bullfighting aficionados, respect the bull. The animal represents power, life and the great wild. Ernest Hemingway, who first came to the festival in 1923, understood. He wrote that he enjoyed watching two wild animals run together â€" one on two legs, the other on four.

Although they can wear anything, mozos traditionally dress in white pants and shirts, with red bandanas tied around their necks and waists. Two legends explain the red-and-white uniform: One says it's to honor San Fermin, a saint (white) who was martyred (red); the other says that the runners dress like the butchers who began this tradition. (The bulls are colorblind, so they don't care.)

A wave of energy surges through the streets each morning as the start time approaches. Spectators start assembling at the crack of dawn. For many of these revelers, early morning is just the tail end of a night of partying.

As onlookers pack the side alleys, the mozos jockey for a favorable position on the street for the half-mile run.

Then it's time, and the sound of a rocket signals that the bulls are running. Resembling hundreds of pogo sticks, runners spontaneously begin jumping up and down, trying to see the rampaging bulls to time their flight.

Like a freak wave pummeling a beach, the bulls rush through. It's a red-and-white cauldron of desperation. Big eyes, scrambling bodies, the ground quaking. As the bulls charge down the street, the mozos scramble to stay out in front of the thundering herd, diving out of the way at the last possible moment.

For serious runners, this is like surfing: You hope to catch a good wave and ride it. A good individual run lasts 15 to 20 seconds. You know you are really running with the bull when you feel the breath of the animal on your pants.

A bull becomes most dangerous when separated from the herd. For this reason, a few steers â€" which are calmer and slower â€" are released with the bulls. There's no greater embarrassment in this machismo culture than to think you've run with a bull, only to realize later that you actually ran with a steer.

Then, suddenly, the bulls are gone. People pick themselves up, and it's over. Boarded-up shops open up, and the timber fences that lined the bull-running streets are taken down and stacked. As is the ritual, participants drop into a bar immediately after the running, have breakfast and together watch the rerun of the entire spectacle on TV â€" all 131 seconds of it.

Each year, dozens of people are gored, trampled or otherwise injured during the event. A mozo who falls should never get up â€" it's better to be trampled by six bulls than to be gored by one. Though bulls have killed 15 runners over the last century, far more festivalgoers have been impaired from overconsumption of alcohol. The festival means party time in Pamplona.

At the new Museum of the Running of the Bulls, you can learn all about Pamplona's unique tradition, get your picture taken with an actual (stuffed) bull and view a 3-D re-creation of the event.

It's fun to follow along in the actual footsteps and hoofsteps of the participants. Signs mark the route from the bull corral where the bulls are released to the bullring. One of the most hair-raising points is at the turn into the street named La Estafeta, where the running bulls begin heading downhill, often losing their balance and sliding into the barricades.

When the bulls aren't running, La Estafeta is one of the most appealing streets in Pamplona, home to some of the best tapas bars in town.

When the rollicking festival concludes at midnight July 14, Pamplona's townspeople congregate in front of City Hall, light candles and sing their sad song, "Pobre de Mi": "Poor me, the Fiesta de San Fermin has ended."

Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com, and follow his blog on Facebook.

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Travel -: Winging it

Travel -
Headlines from

Winging it
28 Jun 2011, 8:03 pm

NAGS HEAD, N.C. â€" Magical things happen atop the great sand dunes here. The dunes include the largest on the East Coast, which soars 80 to 100 feet above most everything else and offers fine views in all directions: the gleaming Atlantic to the east, a picturesque estuary to the west and beach houses and tourist swarms below.

"I've been living here 25 years, and every New Year's Eve we go up to the dune to watch the sun set," Leslie Deligio, 59, a nurse, said as we sipped beers at Outer Banks Brewing Station brew pub on the teeming strip along this state's coast. "Then we come down and party."

Another local, a man, leaned over and offered his own bit of dune mythology: Certain more lascivious activities are known to happen up there. Wink, nudge.

However, it was the Outer Banks' legendary winds and sand for soft landings â€" not the extracurricular activities â€" that lured the Wright Brothers here from Ohio for their famous Kitty Hawk flights of 1903. Today that same combination summons thousands of tourists for world-class kite flying, hang gliding and intense games of make-believe.

"We need to get to the top of the mountain!" a 4-year-old yelled as his little feet chugged up the searing dune one toasty summer afternoon. "It's the only way we will survive!"

I, however, skipped the make-believe and went right for the hang gliding.

Kitty Hawk Kites, one of the area's oldest outfitters, offers four beginning and four advanced courses a day off the area's dunes, and they appeal to a wide swath â€" from 9-year-old girls with braids to grandfathers in shorts and white athletic socks pulled high. My lesson came on a hot afternoon moderated by warm ocean breezes.

Training began with signing away my life â€" repeatedly. Five signatures and 12 initials across several pages, though what I signed away, I didn't know. It seemed better that way. Then came an hour of talking, as a lecturer told my 20 classmates and me what we faced. Anxiety was palpable â€" we were going to fly? â€" even if we all tried to hide it.

Our flights would not be epic, we were told; if we were lucky, we would travel 125 feet â€" five more than the Wright Brothers on their first flight on Dec. 17, 1903. Didn't matter.

"The feeling of weightlessness is the same at 18 feet as 18,000 feet," our lecturer said. And then came a warning: "Do not panic. Panicked is no state to be in in a hang glider."

That, of course, made us only more nervous. But out we went, from the classroom to the hot sand, where our instructor, Hunter Deakle, quietly admitted to me that he was new to the sport, even though he became a quick addict.

"Unpowered flight," said Deakle, 26. "It's birdlike, man. People dream of this stuff."

We dream of it indeed, but we're also intimidated by it. Birds fly. We walk. It makes even hang gliding off a sand dune intimidating. But helmet on head, latched to the glider, instructions firmly in head about turning and maintaining flight, it seemed impossible until actually taking that first running leap off the dune and stepping into freedom and weightlessness.

Well, sort of. Most first flights, mine included, ended with a quick thud, the glider's metal tip nosing into the sand. My first flight was a mere 20 or so feet, but my second extended to about 40 feet. I don't remember looking at anything during that flight â€" only the feeling of brief soaring.

"That was nice!" Deakle said. "It's because you had a sick takeoff."

"How do you know when your takeoff is sick?" I asked.

"You move all the energy from your legs to this," he said, and shook the glider. "There's not a lot of banging around. It's smooth."

We all had our moments, both high and low. Succeeding took equal amounts of concentration and absolute letting go. You knew it went well when, at the moment it seemed you should be heading back to terra firma, you stayed aloft. You defied your own expectation.

A bad flight ended jarringly, quickly, thuddingly. We all had them.

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Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Travel - chicagotribune.com: Flight canceled; where's the refund?

Travel - chicagotribune.com
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

Flight canceled; where's the refund?
28 Jun 2011, 9:07 pm

My wife and I planned a trip to Antigua this summer and purchased round-trip flights, hotel room and a kayak excursion through Expedia in December.

Everything was a "go" until we received a call one day in early April from an Expedia representative informing us of a change to our American Airlines flights. American had apparently changed quite a few flights to the island, and none of the changes worked for us.

The Expedia rep said we could expect to see a full refund due to an "unacceptable" involuntary schedule change by the airline. After getting the rep to verify that we could cancel the hotel, excursion and flights at no charge, I authorized them to cancel the trip completely.

The rep was able to instantly provide a refund for the hotel and kayak trip but advised that the refund for the flights would take between four to six weeks to go through.

Six weeks later, having received no refund, I checked with Expedia. It informed me that it had already given me a refund, but it turns out it only was referring to the first refund. I emailed Expedia back to let it know that it got the wrong refund but have not received a response yet. It concerns me that no one can seem to tell us when we will ever get the refund or why it has been held up for so long.

I am at my wits' end with Expedia, Chris. Can you please help me get this resolved? My wife and I would be so grateful.

— Dan Lachapelle, Sudbury, Ontario

A: I wouldn't be so quick to blame Expedia. Airlines are known to drag their feet when it comes to refunds, and my initial reading of your problem suggests American might have something to do with the delay too.

This is a common problem. You buy your tickets through an agency, and the agency takes your money. But if you want a refund — or something else, like a name change — then the agency defers to the airline.

If you paid the agency, why can't the agency just give you a refund?

I've been covering the travel industry for years and still haven't heard a reasonable answer to that question. I'm told that it's technology or policy or even tradition that keeps your money from flowing back in your direction promptly. Either way, it seems the only beneficiaries are the companies that get to keep your money for two to three billing cycles. It shouldn't be that way.

Expedia should have been able to refund your purchase and retrieve the money from the airline. Instead, it made you wait. And when you made inquiries, it told you the check was in the mail, and when you followed up, refused to answer.

For what it's worth, I think your refund would have come eventually. But you've been more than patient. You can find the names of Expedia's executives on my new customer-service wiki, On Your Side (onyoursi.de), for the next time you need to appeal your case to someone higher up the food chain.

I asked Expedia about your refund. It contacted you and admitted losing the information for your flights and refund. You received a full refund for your trip.

Christopher Elliott is the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine and a co-founder of the Consumer Travel Alliance, a nonprofit organization that advocates for travelers. You can read more tips on his blog, elliott.org, or e-mail him at chris@elliott.org.

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Travel - chicagotribune.com: Continental's OnePass plan to be phased out

Travel - chicagotribune.com
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

Continental's OnePass plan to be phased out
29 Jun 2011, 4:52 pm

Continental's OnePass plan to be phased out
Associated Press

10:52 a.m. CDT, June 29, 2011

Continental Airlines' OnePass loyalty program will be phased out and moved into United's Mileage Plus plan later this year, United Continental Holdings Inc. said Wednesday.

Continental's OnePass loyalty program will end on Dec. 31. United will automatically enroll OnePass members in Mileage Plus and deposit their miles into Mileage Plus accounts.

OnePass member activity this year will be fully recognized in Mileage Plus next year. OnePass-branded credit cards will continue to earn miles and benefits in the Mileage Plus program.

In the meantime, United and Continental customers who are currently enrolled in both programs can link their accounts, allowing them to combine miles and earn awards faster this year.

United Continental said it will offer more details on any changes to the program later this year.

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Travel - chicagotribune.com: First individual Chinese tourists arrive in Taiwan amid steadily warming ties

Travel - chicagotribune.com
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

First individual Chinese tourists arrive in Taiwan amid steadily warming ties
28 Jun 2011, 1:38 pm

TAIPEI, Taiwan (AP) — The first individual Chinese tourists arrived in Taiwan on Tuesday amid steadily warming ties between the two sides that split amid civil war more than six decades ago.

Previously, Chinese tourists could only travel to Taiwan in groups, reflecting fears that without supervision they would overstay their standard 15-days visas, primarily to take advantage of the self-ruled island's relatively lucrative job market.

The first plane from China carrying individual tourists landed at Taipei's Songshan Airport around 10 a.m. (0200 GMT) after a short hop from Shanghai. Earlier another group had flown into the central Taiwanese city of Taichung following a short plane ride from the offshore Taiwanese island of Qinmen. That group, numbering about a dozen, had traveled to Qinmen by boat from the southern Chinese city of Xiamen.

Tuesday's individual tourist arrivals emphasize Taiwanese President Ma Ying-jeou's continuing efforts to forge closer China relations. The two sides split amid civil war in 1949.

During his three years in office, Ma has lowered tensions across the 100-mile (160-kilometer)-wide Taiwan Strait to their lowest level in six decades, leveraging expanding trade relations and increasing face-to-face contacts to turn the corner on his predecessor's pro-independence policies.

Despite the improving ties, Beijing continues to claim the island as part of its territory and remains committed to bringing about unification by persuasion if possible, by force if necessary.

Arriving at Songshan Airport on the flight from Qinmen, 43-year-old tour agency manager Ma Zhiqiang said he was looking forward to his visit as an individual, rather than in a group.

"When I came with a tour group before, we didn't have enough time to explore Taiwan," he said. "Now as an individual I'll be able to see more aspects of the island and get greater enjoyment out of the food and shopping."

Taiwanese officials say they hope increasing Chinese tourist arrivals will lead to a wider Chinese appreciation of Taiwan's democratic society, which contrasts markedly with the one-party system on the mainland. To encourage the trend Taiwanese lawmakers have even opened the island's legislature to Chinese visitors, though with better known attractions like Mount Ali and Sun Moon Lake vying for their time, it remains unclear how many will take them up on the offer.

Last year 1.6 million Chinese tourists visited Taiwan, adding some 61 billion New Taiwan dollars ($2 billion) to the island's coffers. Travel agencies say individual Chinese visitors will add another NT$5 billion ($172 million) during the remainder of 2011.

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Travel - chicagotribune.com: Maui man travels 300 miles alone on stand-up paddleboard

Travel - chicagotribune.com
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

Maui man travels 300 miles alone on stand-up paddleboard
28 Jun 2011, 1:42 pm

JENNIFER SINCO KELLEHER Associated Press

7:42 a.m. CDT, June 28, 2011

HONOLULU (AP) — Bart de Zwart expected to be in more pain after paddling 300 miles (480 kilometers) from Hawaii's Big Island to Kauai.

"I'm not even sore," he said Monday morning from his Kauai hotel room, where he slept in a bed after arriving to Kalapaki Beach the night before onboard a stand-up paddleboard.

The 41-year-old Maui man spent five days alone at sea attempting what he believes to be the first-ever solo crossing from the Big Island to Kauai on a standup paddleboard. He was headed to a Kauai clinic Monday to have swollen, infected blisters on his feet checked out. Aside from the blisters and losing about six pounds (2.7 kilograms), he said he felt fine.

"This was by far the hardest thing I've done in my life," he said. "I'm glad I did it but I don't think I'll do it again."

The married father of a 12-year-old daughter said he was inspired to embark on the passage by ancient Hawaiians who voyaged in simple canoes. Originally from Holland, de Zwart has lived in Haiku, Maui for 11 years, where owns the Kahana Kai Maui surf shop.

Strapped to his 14-foot (4.3-meter) longboard were enough freeze-dried meals and water in watertight containers for seven days. He slept on inflatable water mattresses glued together to form what resembled a kiddie pool, he explained: "At night, I blew it up and strapped it on the board." The choppy waters and windy conditions would occasionally flip the board over, startling him awake in the water.

It was more mentally challenging than physical.

"The hardest part was survival," he said, "being wet for five days and five nights." He had to focus most of the time on navigating and staying on the north side of the islands, but the solitude allowed his mind to drift to minor details in life such as recent conversations with friends.

He estimated the trip involved more than 215,000 strokes with an 82-inch (2.08-meter) paddle.

___

Online: http://sup-crossing.blogspot.com/

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Travel - chicagotribune.com: Chuck Berry to get St. Louis-area statue despite icon's criminal past

Travel - chicagotribune.com
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

Chuck Berry to get St. Louis-area statue despite icon's criminal past
28 Jun 2011, 9:17 pm

By Associated Press

3:17 p.m. CDT, June 28, 2011

UNIVERSITY CITY, Mo. (AP) — The rock legend known for such hits as "Johnny B. Goode" will be getting a statue in suburban St. Louis, but not everyone thinks that's so great.

University City's City Council on Monday night refused to block installation of an 8-foot bronze sculpture by artist Harry Weber honoring 84-year-old Chuck Berry.

Entrepreneur Joe Edwards and KMOX radio host Charles Brennan have led a fundraising driving for the statue across from Edwards' Blueberry Hill, where Berry has performed some 160 times.

Edwards figures the statute will be a tourism draw. But critics have questioned whether it should be placed on city-owned land, and the fact that Berry spent time in jail.

Edwards says the sculpture is to be installed Thursday or Friday, with a formal dedication scheduled for July 29.

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Travel - chicagotribune.com: Texas lawmakers back watered-down airport groping bill

Travel - chicagotribune.com
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

Texas lawmakers back watered-down airport groping bill
28 Jun 2011, 1:36 pm

AUSTIN, Texas (AP) — Texas lawmakers gave their initial backing Monday to legislation that would criminalize intentional, inappropriate touching during airport security pat-downs, but it was so watered down it provoked angry outbursts from conservative activists, who decried it as toothless.

The new versions of the bill would still make it a misdemeanor punishable with up to a year in jail to touch a person's sexual organs and other sensitive areas. But now they give security officials a defense to prosecution if they act with "reasonable suspicion" that the search is necessary.

That change prompted chants of "Traitor!" by a small group of protesters in the Capitol rotunda shortly after the House cast a preliminary vote in favor of the bill.

The protesters then gathered in the Senate gallery and several called out "Treason!" to senators below. The Senate passed its version several hours after the protesters left.

The Republican-controlled chambers have until Wednesday to resolve several differences between their bills before sending one to Gov. Rick Perry to consider signing it into law.

Supporters of the bill complained the changes make the penalties unenforceable. Texas law already bans public servants from subjecting someone to a search he or she "knows is unlawful."

About two dozen people showed up to testify in support of the bill in the Senate Committee on Transportation and Homeland Security, then opposed it when they learned the bill was going to be changed on the recommendation of Texas Attorney General Greg Abbott, a Republican.

"The simple act of opting out of the body scanners is going to be reasonable suspicion," said Heather Fazio of Austin. "That is unacceptable."

Sen. Dan Patrick, R-Houston, defended the change, saying the bill still sends a strong message to Transportation Security Administration security screeners to keep their wandering hands off Texans.

Patrick noted that the TSA announced last week that it would try to reduce the number of pat-downs performed on children.

"The goal is to get the TSA to change their policy," Patrick said. "TSA is going change their policy because Texas is taking the lead."

TSA spokesman Greg Soule said Americans expect authorities to use "effective methods to keep the traveling public safe" and that the agency will review the bill if passed into law.

All of the testimony for the bill has concentrated on stories of people being searched and included no actual examples of TSA officers being reprimanded or disciplined for improper touching.

Although dismissed last week as a "publicity stunt" by Republican House Speaker Joe Straus, the issue has become a top priority for the libertarian wing of the Texas GOP.

Few Texas airports are equipped with full-body scanners, meaning there often is no other screening option for travelers picked out for what TSA calls an enhanced pat down. Opponents have simmered over procedures they consider a violation of their Constitutional right against unwarranted search and seizure.

Texas made it a full-blown fight with the TSA last month when the Texas House voted to criminalize intrusive pat-downs. That version appeared ready to pass the Senate until John E. Murphy, the U.S. attorney for the Western District of Texas, warned lawmakers that it would interfere with the TSA's ability to ensure travelers' safety.

Murphy's letter to legislators said if the original bill passed, the federal government would probably go to court to block it and the TSA would likely be required to cancel flights if it cannot ensure passenger safety.

TSA officials say advance imaging technology and pat downs are the most effective way to detect threats such as explosives made of plastics, liquids or gels designed to not be detected by traditional metal detectors.

The issue prompted some small but loud demonstrations outside the House and Senate chambers last month and many of them showed up again for Monday's vote. Texas Gov. Rick Perry, a Republican considering a run for president, added the pat-down bill to the agenda of the 30-day special session he called on May 31.

But the bill has lost significant momentum over the last week.

Straus appeared to strike a major blow against the original version of the bill when he warned it would hurt commercial aviation in Texas and would make the state a "laughingstock."

Monday's changes further eroded support.

"TSA is abusing people," said Don Hart of Austin, who opposed the new version approved Monday. "TSA will be empowered to keep doing what they are doing."

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Travel - chicagotribune.com: Flight canceled; where's refund?

Travel - chicagotribune.com
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

Flight canceled; where's refund?
28 Jun 2011, 9:07 pm

My wife and I planned a trip to Antigua this summer and purchased round-trip flights, hotel room and a kayak excursion through Expedia in December.

Everything was a "go" until we received a call one day in early April from an Expedia representative informing us of a change to our American Airlines flights. American had apparently changed quite a few flights to the island, and none of the changes worked for us.

The Expedia rep said we could expect to see a full refund due to an "unacceptable" involuntary schedule change by the airline. After getting the rep to verify that we could cancel the hotel, excursion and flights at no charge, I authorized them to cancel the trip completely.

The rep was able to instantly provide a refund for the hotel and kayak trip but advised that the refund for the flights would take between four to six weeks to go through.

Six weeks later, having received no refund, I checked with Expedia. It informed me that it had already given me a refund, but it turns out it only was referring to the first refund. I emailed Expedia back to let it know that it got the wrong refund but have not received a response yet. It concerns me that no one can seem to tell us when we will ever get the refund or why it has been held up for so long.

I am at my wits' end with Expedia, Chris. Can you please help me get this resolved? My wife and I would be so grateful.

— Dan Lachapelle, Sudbury, Ontario

A: I wouldn't be so quick to blame Expedia. Airlines are known to drag their feet when it comes to refunds, and my initial reading of your problem suggests American might have something to do with the delay too.

This is a common problem. You buy your tickets through an agency, and the agency takes your money. But if you want a refund — or something else, like a name change — then the agency defers to the airline.

If you paid the agency, why can't the agency just give you a refund?

I've been covering the travel industry for years and still haven't heard a reasonable answer to that question. I'm told that it's technology or policy or even tradition that keeps your money from flowing back in your direction promptly. Either way, it seems the only beneficiaries are the companies that get to keep your money for two to three billing cycles. It shouldn't be that way.

Expedia should have been able to refund your purchase and retrieve the money from the airline. Instead, it made you wait. And when you made inquiries, it told you the check was in the mail, and when you followed up, refused to answer.

For what it's worth, I think your refund would have come eventually. But you've been more than patient. You can find the names of Expedia's executives on my new customer-service wiki, On Your Side (onyoursi.de), for the next time you need to appeal your case to someone higher up the food chain.

I asked Expedia about your refund. It contacted you and admitted losing the information for your flights and refund. You received a full refund for your trip.

Christopher Elliott is the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine and a co-founder of the Consumer Travel Alliance, a nonprofit organization that advocates for travelers. You can read more tips on his blog, elliott.org, or e-mail him at chris@elliott.org.

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Travel - chicagotribune.com: William-Kate visit highlights royal tie in government push to reshape Canada's self-image

Travel - chicagotribune.com
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

William-Kate visit highlights royal tie in government push to reshape Canada's self-image
28 Jun 2011, 7:04 pm

TORONTO (AP) — Decades have passed since Canadians abandoned the Union Jack and replaced "God Save the Queen" with "O Canada," but the royalty-lovers among them are in for a thrill when Britain's newest royal couple come visiting on Thursday.

Meanwhile, those who leaf through the government's updated guide to good citizenship will notice that the oath of allegiance to Queen Elizabeth II has been moved from the back of the pamphlet to the front.

Royalty seems to be making a comeback of sorts in Canada.

Part of it is simply the afterglow of the sumptuous wedding of Prince William to Kate Middleton two months ago. But something deeper is afoot than mere stargazing: Prime Minister Stephen Harper is the most pro-monarchy Canadian leader since the 1950s, and his ambition is to foster a national identity that is more conservative and more aware of its historical roots. He has just come out of a general election greatly strengthened, and now he gets to bask in the aura of William and Kate on their first official overseas trip as a married couple.

"He thinks that emphasizing Canada's monarchical traditions is key to refashioning Canadians' self-image," said Robert Bothwell, a professor at the University of Toronto.

Ordinarily, most Canadians are indifferent to the monarchy, even though 85-year-old Queen Elizabeth II is their titular head of state, is portrayed on their coins and stamps, and has visited them 22 times as head of state. But a royal visit usually brings out the crowds, and Heritage Minister James Moore reckons this one will be the most-watched in Canada's history.

The monarchy is "part of our fabric, part of our future and it's one of the central institutions to our identity as Canadians," Moore told The Associated Press.

Many in the French-speaking province of Quebec disagree, and small groups have taken to the streets on past royal visits to show their displeasure. The visiting couple will be in Quebec City, where a militant French separatist group has vowed to demonstrate, and may face similar protests in Montreal.

The group's spokesman, college student Julien Gaudreau, said "The monarchist symbol is a right-wing symbol ... It's not really democratic, it's not representative of the population."

Overall, the antiroyal movement in Canada is minuscule, meaning that William, now 29, will almost certainly be king of Canada one day. One reason is that abolishing the monarchy would mean changing the constitution. That's an inherently risky undertaking, given how delicately it is engineered to unite a nation of 34 million that embraces English-speakers, French-speakers, indigenous tribes and a constant flow of new immigrants.

The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, as they are formally known, will encounter many of those faces of Canada during their nine days of travel, from the sub-Arctic to oil-rich Calgary, Alberta, from busy Montreal to bucolic Prince Edward Island of "Anne of Green Gables" fame. They'll sit around a campfire with young people, dress casual for the Calgary rodeo, join a cookout in Quebec City, and hand out flags to newly minted Canadians at a citizenship ceremony.

Harper, five years in office, will meanwhile be pushing ahead with his long-term goal of shifting the country's ideological bearings from center-left to center-right — a project that lays greater stress on such symbols as the monarchy, the military, hockey and the Arctic.

When the updated guide for new immigrants was published in 2009, it was widely noted that the monarchy and armed forces overshadowed social programs such as universal health care, the pride of the left-of-center Liberal era typified by the late Pierre Trudeau.

Harper "harkens back to a 1950s conservative vision of Canada — none of the Trudeau-welfare state stuff," said Lawrence Martin, a political columnist for The Globe and Mail newspaper and author of "Harperland: The Politics of Control."

"That's the type of identity that he's trying to forge here, which is a fair distance from the Liberal way. He likes to use the monarchy as a tool of that because it fits his vision of the country, distinct from the Liberal vision."

Gerry Nicholls, who worked under Harper at a conservative think tank, said Harper previously wasn't a staunch monarchist, but that he values it as a conservative symbol.

"It plays into a larger strategy of creating this conservative ethos for Canada. But we're never going to go back to 'God Save the Queen,' the Union Jack or those kind of things," Nicholls told the AP.

Nicholls said the Liberals were often seen as "openly hostile to the monarchy, in what people would see as a rejection of our past and our traditions."

John Manley, a former foreign minister and deputy Liberal prime minister, is the most prominent Canadian to have suggested, while in office, that the tie be severed. But he as well as the opinion polls acknowledge it's not a hot-button issue.

A poll of about 1,000 Canadians taken by Harris/Decima a year ago, just before the queen's last visit, showed 55 percent were aware she was coming. Fifty-two percent of those who were aware of the visit felt the monarchy is an important part of Canadian history, while 44 percent saw it as part of the colonial past. Margin of error was given as 3.1 percent.

In an interview, Manley said Canadians care much more about who wins hockey's Stanley Cup. "I suspect that another country, perhaps Australia, is going to deal with this first. Then perhaps Canadians might consider it."

Josh Upton, 21, of the Calgary branch of The Monarchist League of Canada, expects the William-and-Kate visit to strengthen Canada's ties with its sovereign.

"It's the new fresh face on the monarchy," he said. "People are going to be more excited about it because they see the future of the monarchy in Canada in the duke and duchess."

But Ameya Pendse, born in the U.S. to Indian parents and now a Canadian citizen, belongs to Citizens for a Canadian Republic, an anti-monarchy group.

"I've talked to many young kids and they say the queen shouldn't have any role in our society whatsoever," said Pendse, 18. "We're paying millions of dollars for their stays in Canada and it's really disturbing. It's like paying for Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie to come visit us here because they are nothing but celebrities."

The trip will cost the Canadian government about $1.5 million, Moore, the heritage minister, estimated.

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Selena Ross in Montreal contributed to this story.

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