Saturday, August 6, 2011

Boutique hotel has all the extras

Part of a series of mini-reviews of Chicago-area hotels.

Steps away from the Magnificent Mile sits the Affinia Chicago, but that's not the most attractive trait of this boutique hotel. What's impressive is that the Affinia has all the hot-button amenities you would look for in a downtown hotel — a rooftop bar, a celebrity-chef restaurant — yet manages an understated, almost homey feel.

Take the rooms, where guests can choose from a number of complimentary "My Affinia" welcome kits, including a fitness kit with yoga mats and Pilates DVDs, a kids kit filled with cupcakes, or a pillow menu that offers everything from hypoallergenic cushions to ones that plug into your iPod.

But if you want to sip cocktails while staring out into the city, visit the aptly named rooftop bar C-View, where you're privy to some fantastic cityscapes to the east, south and west. Or you can head down to C-House, where chef/owner Marcus Samuelsson (as in "Top Chef Master" Marcus Samuelsson) has developed a seafood-centric menu full of local, sustainable ingredients.

Insider tip: Be sure to check out the Candy Bar, a dessert kiosk inside C-House that's so decadent you'll have to call your dentist.

Affinia Chicago

Neighborhood:

Streeterville

166 E. Superior St.

Chicago, IL 60611

312-787-6000

affinia.com

Getting there

Cross streets: Superior and St. Clair

Public transportation: CTA bus: Michigan Avenue routes, including 3, 145, 146, 147, 151; Red Line "L" stop: Chicago

Parking: Self and valet

Wheelchair access

The basics

Prices for a standard room start as low as $209, excluding taxes and fees.

Floors: 29

Rooms: 215

Hotel amenities: Meeting rooms (5), restaurant and bars/lounges (2), 24-hour business center, 24-hour fitness center

Room amenities: Wide-screen television, work desk, minibar, coffeemaker, in-room safe

Features

Room service

Turndown service

Pets allowed: $25 service fee

Wi-Fi available: $9.95 a day

Shopping nearby


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U.S. expands travel warning amid violence in Syria


WASHINGTON (Reuters) - Americans in Syria are
encouraged to leave and travel to the country should be
postponed, the U.S. State Department said Friday following
widespread violence that has pitted thousands of protesters
against the government.

The State Department warned that given the ``ongoing
uncertainty and volatility'' U.S. citizens are urged to leave
immediately while transportation is still available. The
advisory also encouraged Americans who remain to limit any
nonessential travel within the country.

The advisory expands a travel warning issued in late April
that ordered eligible family members of U.S. government
employees and certain non-emergency personnel to leave.

Syrian security forces Friday killed at least 18
protesters in attacks on tens of thousands of protesters who
poured into the streets to demonstrate against the rule of
President Bashar al-Assad on the first Friday of the Muslim
fasting month of Ramadan.

The four-month-old uprising has grown increasingly violent


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Rental already damaged

I recently rented a car through Enterprise at Chicago's Midway Airport. I was taken to a vehicle that had a damaged fender. I called this situation to the attention of the rental attendant, and he said, "No worries, I'll just note it on the contract."

When I returned the vehicle, all check-in procedures ran normally, and I was sent on my way. The next day, I received an unsigned email from the "Damage Recovery Unit" asking for my insurance company information.

I contacted the agency by phone. A representative advised me to email a copy of my original contract, which noted the damage. So I did. The next day I received another email from the Damage Recovery Unit that said, "claim and invoice information was on the way."

I phoned the Midway location where I had rented the vehicle. A representative claimed not to have a copy of the contract, stating, "We don't keep those on file here." Within three days, I received another email from the Damage Recovery Unit, with an estimate and an invoice.

Clearly, no one had read my letter or looked at the contract attached. I couldn't get through to the Damage Recovery Unit by phone, and the Midway location didn't have any paperwork on my case. I think I am the target of what may well have been a scam. What do you think?

— Janice Stickley White, El Dorado Hills, Calif.

A: I think I'm getting tired of answering questions about fraudulent damage claims on rental cars. Obviously, if there was pre-existing damage that was noted on your rental car, then Enterprise should have signed off on your car, thanked you for your business and let you be on your way.

If there had been damage to the fender that you were responsible for, an Enterprise representative should have noted it when you returned the vehicle and asked you to fill out a damage claim. The company shouldn't have broadsided you with a form letter a few days later, demanding the name of your insurance company.

Is this a widespread scam? It's hard to tell. There's no doubt that rental companies are pursuing every damage claim, no matter how small, in an apparent effort to make more money. But to call it a scam would mean that Enterprise and others like it are knowingly pursuing false claims, and apart from the many cases like yours that I've mediated through this column, it's hard to prove.

There are a few things you might have done to prevent this from becoming a claim. When you picked up the car, and the representative promised to note the damage, I would have asked for another car. Enterprise shouldn't be renting you a damaged car.

If it were the last car on the lot, I would have double-checked the notation to make sure it was accurate. And knowing that you were driving a damaged car, I would have asked for a manager to sign off on the car when you returned it. Also, note the name and phone number of that supervisor, just in case Enterprise has second thoughts.

One other thing: Calling Enterprise was probably the least efficient way to contact it. A brief, polite email, disputing its claim, works the best. I like the fact that you copied the insurance authorities in Illinois on your correspondence — that underscores the seriousness of your grievance.

I contacted Enterprise on your behalf, and it dropped the claim.

Christopher Elliott is the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine and a co-founder of the Consumer Travel Alliance, a nonprofit organization that advocates for travelers. You can read more tips on his blog, elliott.org or email him at chris@elliott.org.


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48 hours in New York on a shoestring


NEW YORK (Reuters Life!) - It's known for its Broadway shows, designer shops and exclusive restaurants but there are plenty of things to enjoy in the Big Apple without burning a hole in your pocket.

Reuters correspondents with local knowledge show that bargains can still be found in the city.

FRIDAY

6 p.m. - Soak in the bright lights at Times Square, where it always seems like mid-day under the mega-watt billboards. You'll get the rush of gawking tourists and perhaps see the barely clothed busker, "The Naked Cowboy." You can buy discounted Broadway tickets for same-day performances at the TKTS booth on Duffy Square.

7 p.m. - Grab dinner from a street vendor and sit at one of the seats in the "pedestrian plazas" in the middle of Times Square. Take in a sweeping Times Square view from the top of the red glass steps adjoining the ticket booth, or eat at one of the many restaurants in the theater district, or low-priced regional eateries along Ninth Avenue.

8:30 p.m. - If you skip the theater, or later if you do catch a show, have a drink at the revolving bar at the New York Marriott Marquis in Times Square.

10 p.m. - Enjoy panoramic city views from the "Top of the Rock" Observation Deck at Rockefeller Center.

SATURDAY

9 a.m. - Grab a bagel and coffee from a street vendor and head to midtown for a Gray Line or CitySights NY Hop-On, Hop-Off double-decker bus. Buy a 48-hour All Loops Tour and start with a downtown loop that takes in Greenwich Village and Union Square, SoHo, Chinatown, the Lower East Side and Empire State Building. You can get off at all stops and explore on your own. Also check out "NYSee Tours" for guided "Get Acquainted" city adventures.

The Gary Line and CitySights NY also offer Brooklyn tours that run every half hour until 3:30 p.m. The tour includes the Botanical Garden, antique furniture district and Brooklyn Museum of Art stops.

Or, because no trip to New York is complete without seeing the Statue of Liberty, jump on the free Staten Island Ferry for a view of this enigmatic lady, Ellis Island and lower Manhattan.

10 a.m. - Pick up hand-crafted cheese, organic produce and freshly baked goods at the Union Square farmers' market.

11 a.m. - Wander through Greenwich Village's meandering streets, historic townhouses, unique shops and many restaurants.

Noon - Movie and TV fans can take an "On Location Tour" of the city (www.screentour.com). The company specializes in TV and movie location trips and also offers a "Sex and the City Hotspots" and "Gossip Girl" site tours.

4 p.m. - Enjoy panoramic views of Manhattan and the East River by walking across the Brooklyn Bridge.

5 p.m. - Spend some quiet time remembering the victims of the September 11 attacks at Ground Zero. The best viewing points are from the adjacent World Financial Center.

7 p.m. - Explore Chinatown's exotic food markets and gift shops, and pick a spot for dinner. Have a cappuccino and cannoli in neighboring Little Italy.

10 p.m. - Head to Arthur's Tavern in Greenwich Village at 57 Grove Street to end the night with intimate jazz and blues.

SUNDAY

8 a.m. - After breakfast of fruits and breads bought at the markets on Saturday, head to Central Park, the oasis in the middle of the urban jungle. Popular destinations include Strawberry Fields, a memorial to Beatle John Lennon, and Bethesda Fountain, a fixture in movies set in Manhattan.

10.30 a.m. - Visit the Metropolitan Museum of Art on Fifth Avenue. From an extensive Egyptian collection to countless European paintings and sculptures, there is something for everyone with approximately 3 million works on display.

1 p.m. - The Cloisters, a Metropolitan Museum of Art branch at Fort Tryon Park overlooking the Hudson River in northern Manhattan, offers free garden tours and medieval European art. Have a light lunch here at the cafe.

4 p.m. - Bike or walk over the George Washington Bridge, which connects the Washington Heights neighborhood of upper Manhattan to Fort Lee, New Jersey. If you've had enough of nature, head back to Madame Tussauds wax museum in midtown, where soon you're not sure whether the person sitting next to you is real or not.

6:30 p.m. - Window shop along famed Fifth Avenue. Have dinner in Virgil's Real Barbeque on 44th Street, or at Osteria Al Doge on the same block.


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Allure of Amboise snared even da Vinci

The Loire River glides gently east to west, officially separating northern from southern France, and has come to define one of France's most popular tourist regions.

The region is home to more than 1,000 castles and palaces in all shapes and sizes. When a "valley address" became a must-have among 16th century royals, rich Renaissance palaces replaced outdated medieval castles.

Straddling the widest stretch of the river is the city of Amboise, an inviting town with a fine old quarter below its hilltop chateau. A castle has overlooked the Loire from here since Roman times. Leonardo da Vinci retired here — just one more of his many brilliant ideas.

The Italian genius came here in 1516 because it was the royal residence of French King Francois I. Da Vinci packed his bags (and several of his favorite paintings, including the Mona Lisa) and left an imploding Rome for better working conditions. Imagine his resume and cover letter: "I can help your armies by designing tanks, flying machines, windup cars, gear systems, extending ladders and water pumps."

Da Vinci settled in the Chateau du Clos Luce, a plush palace where he spent his last three years. (He died May 2, 1519.) The house is a kind of fortified chateau of its own with a rampart walk and 16th century chapel. The place survived the French Revolution because the quick-talking noble who owned it was sympathetic to the cause and convinced revolutionaries that da Vinci was philosophically on their side.

Though today's owners keep the upstairs to themselves, an entire floor of finely decorated and furnished rooms is open to the public. It thoughtfully re-creates (with a good English brochure and Renaissance music) the everyday atmosphere da Vinci enjoyed while he lived here.

Another da Vinci sight is the Chateau d'Amboise, the historic royal residence partially designed by the brilliant Italian. The king who did most of the building — Charles VIII — is famous for accidentally killing himself by walking into a door lintel.

Inside you'll find a lacy, petite chapel where da Vinci supposedly is buried. This flamboyant little Gothic chapel comes with two fireplaces "to comfort the king" and two plaques "evoking the final resting place" of da Vinci (one in French, the other in Italian).

Though grand, the chateau was much bigger in the 16th century. Wandering through its halls, you travel chronologically from Gothic-style rooms to those of the early Renaissance and on to the 19th century. Climb to the top of the Minimes Tower for panoramic views. The bulky tower ascends 130 feet in five spirals and was designed for a soldier in a hurry. From here the strategic value of this site is clear: The visibility is great, and the river below provides a natural defense.

From the tower you can see the half-mile-long "Golden Island," the only island in the Loire substantial enough to be flood-proof and to have permanent buildings (including a soccer stadium and a 13th century church). It was the place where northern and southern France, divided by the longest river in the country, came together. The Loire marked the farthest point north that the Moors conquered as they pushed into Europe from Morocco.

After touring the chateau, take a lazy walk through Amboise's pleasant, pedestrian-only commercial zone. The city wielded far more importance than you'd imagine.

Its 14,000 residents are still quite conservative and keep their wealth to themselves; consequently, many grand mansions hide behind nondescript facades.

When travelers ask me where to stay in the Loire Valley, I tell them Amboise is the best home base for first-timers. It offers handy access to important chateaux such as Chenonceau, Blois, Chambord and Cheverny. It also has good train connections and public transportation options. Those transportation links also put it under some development pressure. The TGV bullet trains can get you to Paris in an hour, and cheap flights to England make it a prime second-home spot for many Brits, including Mick Jagger.

What makes Amboise so attractive to ancient nobles and modern commuters makes it appealing to tourists too. If you have a passion for anything French — philosophy, history, elegant architecture, food, wine — you'll find it here.

Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com, and follow his blog on Facebook.


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Friday, August 5, 2011

Arizona considered a bird-watching hotspot

PHOENIX (AP) — From the sandhill crane to the red-faced warbler, rock stars of the birding world have spawned a tourism industry in Arizona that draws bird-watchers from around the world.

"It's one of the two or three best places in the United States to look for birds," said David Pashley of the American Bird Conservancy. "Arizona makes a lot of money off of bird-watchers going down to the southeast corner of the state."

More than 140 bird species are found in southern Arizona, and birding festivals take place year-round throughout the state, including Yuma and in northern Arizona's Verde Valley. One of the best-known birding destinations is the southeastern city of Sierra Vista, which hosts the annual Southwest Wings Birding and Nature Festival. The Aug. 3-6 festival, in its 20th year, typically draws thousands of participants.

Nearby Tucson will host another major summer event for birders — the inaugural Tucson Bird & Wildlife Festival, Aug. 17-21. The itinerary will include the Sky Islands Birding Cup fundraiser, where teams will compete to observe the most bird species in a 24-hour period.

Sierra Vista is located near several canyons, the San Pedro River and the Coronado National Memorial, and birds are attracted to the area's hodgepodge of ecosystems, including mountains and trees along rivers and lakes, according to Joe Yarchin, an Arizona Game and Fish Department project coordinator.

"Those are the strongest kind of birding areas in deserts. People certainly don't think of Arizona as any kind of mecca for birders," Yarchin said. "Everyone thinks death and desolation when they think of desert."

Many out-of-town birders come to see birds that are a rarity where they live. Sierra Vista, which promotes itself as the "Hummingbird Capital," has documented more than a dozen species of hummingbirds that are found nowhere else in the country. With the Huachuca Mountains' close proximity to the Sierra Madre mountain ranges of Mexico, birders also get excited at border-crossers.

"A bunch of birds that are Mexican in distribution get into that part of the country," Pashley said. "There are essentially Mexican birds that you can see there that you can't see anywhere else."

In Sierra Vista, birders can also get an extraordinary peek at scientists' effort to record information on hummingbirds. Near the San Pedro River, researchers set up nets and feeders to catch hummingbirds in the fall and spring. Once they're caught, scientists weigh them and measure them. Daggett said they are released, but not before getting a band around their leg.

"Sometimes they get one that has been coming back year after year," Daggett said.

Like most birding events, the Southwest festival offers field excursions and lectures. "A lot of folks like to do a 45-minute classroom and then do a carpool and go someplace and put some of the stuff to use in the field," said Gordon Lewis, one of the festival's organizers.

Lewis said the June 12 Monument Fire outside Sierra Vista, which burned 47 square miles and destroyed 57 homes, hasn't affected the festival's plans or bird-watching in general. They have only had to close down one planned trip because of U.S. Forest Service road closures.

Wildfires have also provided fresh fodder for discussion topics, including talks at the Southwest festival addressing how wildlife and habitats bounce back from the disasters.

Pashley, who oversees domestic habitat issues at the American Bird Conservancy, says most fires are good for ecosystems by helping to clear growth. Displaced birds are resilient enough to adapt and find new places to get food. In southern Arizona, where summer brings a monsoon season characterized by increased humidity and rain, burned areas will "green up really fast."

"My suspicion is those systems will come back and in the long run they'll be healthier than they were," Pashley said. "It's worse for bird-watchers than it is for birds."

According to a 2006 U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service survey, birders spent more than $12 billion nationwide on travel and equipment expenses such as cameras, binoculars and bird food. That same report states that about 1.3 million people came to Arizona to observe wild birds, Yarchin said. Arizona birding generated $838 million in trip-related spending the same year, bringing about $1.2 billion in revenue into the state. For tourism offices and communities, that's a lot of heads and beds, Yarchin added.

"It gets their attention when I go and give my talks to a county board of supervisors or a chamber of commerce," Yarchin said. "You might just say wildlife viewing is comparable to the combination of hunting and fishing."

One reason birding may be such a big draw is its leisurely pace.

"It's a good excuse to go out and get in the fresh air. You don't have to set a goal of going 10 miles or something. It's better than sitting in front of the TV," Lewis said.

___

If You Go...

SOUTHWEST WINGS FESTIVAL: Sierra Vista, Ariz., Aug. 3-6, http://www.swwings.org/

TUCSON BIRD & WILDLIFE FESTIVAL: Tucson, Ariz., Aug. 17-21, http://tucsonaudubon.org/

AUDUBON ARIZONA: http://az.audubon.org/

ARIZONA TOURISM: Birding information from the state office of tourism: http://www.arizonaguide.com/things-to-do/nature/birding-wildlife/arizona-birding


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Dry-diving underwater Hawaii

Not everybody wants to snorkel or scuba dive in Maui. Particularly those of us who (full sheepish disclosure) don't know how to swim.

The Maui Ocean Center wasn't built for the underwater-averse, but it sure lets everybody experience — feet firmly on dry land — the majesty of underwater Hawaii.

It's not the biggest aquarium out there, but it does the state's marine population proud. About a quarter of the animals on exhibit are found only in the region.

You'll see hundreds of varieties of seafarers: tiny sea horses and urchins; colorful reef triggerfish and bullethead parrotfish; those slinky, odd trumpetfish and moray eels; and, yes, the rock stars — hammerhead sharks, gray reef sharks, blacktip reef sharks. The displays showcase the ocean in its increasing depths, from a surge zone and shallow reef exhibits to ever-deeper waters.

The most fascinating exhibit is the last, Open Ocean: This 750,000-gallon tank includes a 54-foot acrylic tunnel you walk through, with sharks, rays and green sea turtles among the other animals swimming alongside and above you. Think of it as a "surroundswim" effect — and as close as this landlubber is going to get to looking at the underside of a stingray as it swims past overhead.

I'd recommend the ocean center early in a trip. It offers a history lesson tied to the sea, which is so integral to Hawaii's history and culture. Those who do plan to snorkel or dive will acquaint themselves with some of the creatures they'll be seeing in the wild. (In fact, because the museum's fishes are regularly released back to the ocean, you might even see the same fellas.)

Most exhibits are inside, but outdoor fun includes a Tide Pool exhibit where you can "pet" starfish and other creatures, and the obvious draw of Turtle Lagoon.

Maui Ocean Center, 192 Ma'alaea Road, Wailuku, Maui; 808-270-7000 or mauioceancenter.com. $25.50; $18.50 for children (there are online discounts). The excellent audio tour is recommended for an additional $3.


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