I write as a native Michigander, so please don't take offense when I say: You need to diversify. When I walk down the main drag on Mackinac Island, I pass Ryba's Fudge and Joann's Fudge and Murdick's Fudge. And maybe Murray's Fudge too. I walk another block, and I pass Ryba's Fudge and Joann's Fudge and Murdick's Fudge. Walk another block, and … I've already seen the town. Your business district is a continuous loop of fudge shops with a few restaurants, souvenir stores and a haunted theater thrown in.
That's why we recently staged a fudge-off, a contest pitting slabs of classic chocolate fudge from three of Mackinac Island's most ubiquitous shops: Ryba's, Joanne's and Murdick's. Based on what we found, I fear a fudge-based economy is not a sustainable one.
Ryba's Fudge Shops, also found on Navy Pier and in McCormick Place, calls itself "Mackinac Island's favorite." We had to agree. Ryba's fudge had the deepest chocolate flavor of our three samples. The plastic knife met the right amount of resistance as it dragged through the slab, leaving tooth marks along the way.
Joann's Fudge was our runner-up. It was creamy but ultimately too soft: It would've made a lovely cake frosting. This is fudge for people who like to lick the spoon when they bake.
Murdick's, founded in 1887 and the island's self-proclaimed "original," disappointed us. Its chocolate was weak, its texture was grainy and its sugary wallop made our teeth hurt. Perhaps we should've tried the peanut brittle.
Overall, we were surprised by how sweet all of the samples were. The sugar content seems to rival that of saltwater taffy, detracting from what we thought would be a rich, chocolate treat. Frankly, we expected more from you, Mackinac Island: You are a beacon at the nexus of two Great Lakes. There's no need to pander to crowds with tawdry Atlantic City-style treats.
In the end, the fudge that carried the day wasn't chocolate at all. It was maple. The maple varieties had a leg up on the chocolate ones for one very good reason: Maple syrup is synonymous with sugary goodness. So its fudgy cousin is less jarringly sweet — and even better when cut by the earthiness of a handful of nuts.
So perhaps, Mackinac Island, it is not time to abandon fudge but time to reinvent it. By definition, fudge need not be flavored with chocolate, just as cars need not be powered by gasoline. But with all your horse-drawn buggies, you've already got that part figured out.
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