Sunday, June 12, 2011

chicagotribune.com - Travel: Fill in family history in Indiana

chicagotribune.com - Travel
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

Fill in family history in Indiana
10 Jun 2011, 6:25 pm

Family historian Barbara Moorhouse's most thrilling moment was opening an oversize book of old maps at the Allen County Public Library in Fort Wayne, Ind.

Like many modern, tech-savvy amateur genealogists, Moorhouse has been able to do most of her research online. But finding and "actually holding" a book of old county plats, one marked with a family name, was special in a way that cannot be duplicated by computer, she says.

"I have yet to visit a county courthouse," the Bloomfield Hills, Mich., resident admits of a once-necessary stop.

The book is part of the library's Genealogy Center, the nation's largest public genealogy collection.

One of the nation's most complete and important family history research sites, the facility draws visitors from across the country. It is open seven days a week from September through May, closed Sundays from Memorial Day to Labor Day.

Its location makes it easy for Midwesterners to fill in a branch on the family tree as part of an affordable getaway weekend.

The collection has 1 million textual items and access to millions more, all free to visitors. It includes census records, military records dating to the 1700s, National Archives passenger lists and indexes covering 163 ports of entry on microfilm. It has one of the largest collections of city directories in the country and the largest English-language genealogy and local history periodical collection in the world, with more than 10,000 titles. In addition, the center has access to important national and international genealogy databases.

Curt Witcher, manager of the Genealogy Center and Special Collections, says that 30 years ago, tracing the family tree usually meant a trip to the local library. Today, would-be family historians more likely begin by logging on to the home computer and Ancestry.com.

Hunting down old records once was arduous, but today's easy access brings a new set of problems.

"What is the data I should be gathering?" is one of the most common questions staff members hear from visitors "either overwhelmed or frustrated" by all that is available, Witcher says. His staff is trained to help visitors cut the hit-or-miss factor that is a big part of family research. And he boasts that his "staff's expertise and access to databases" mean "there is no question we can't answer."

Visiting the Genealogy Center, however, is most rewarding to those who have already done some basic spadework, he says.

"You'd be surprised how many people come here a week before they are going to Ireland and want to find out something about family history," he says.

To help people get started, the Genealogy Center has a rich and easy-to-navigate website, geneal

ogycenter.org. The site has tips on how to begin a family history, a genealogy blog, a monthly e-zine, and an orientation video of the center for those contemplating a visit.

The Genealogy Center is on the second floor of the library in downtown Fort Wayne.

The 7-year-old library is equipped with free Wi-Fi, and there are plenty of tables with outlets for laptops and enough room to spread out books and papers.

The center has a number of computers with access to databases from Ancestry.com to the Mormon holdings in Salt Lake City. In addition, printers and microtext readers for printing or downloading information are scattered throughout.

"I wouldn't go there if you haven't started on the family tree," advises Moorhouse, echoing Witcher. "There is so much there it is almost overwhelming."

But those with a focus will find "you can access all this stuff yourself," she says.

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chicagotribune.com - Travel: Europe boasts a gorgeous natural side

chicagotribune.com - Travel
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

Europe boasts a gorgeous natural side
7 Jun 2011, 9:26 pm

While traveling in England last summer, I hiked through the Cotswolds countryside. The two-hour trek took me from the charming hill town of Stow-on-the-Wold, through the villages of Lower and Upper Slaughter to Bourton-on-the-Water, the "Venice of the Cotswolds."

Along the way, I caught backyard glimpses of farms in action, ducks rudely swimming butt-up in mill ponds, rabbits popping up in fields video-game style, ancient wind-sculpted trees, wet and slippery kissing gates, and slender slate church spires marking distant villages where I knew a hot cup of tea was waiting. When I think back on my trip, that hike was a highlight.

Europe is a treasure chest of great art and history. But it's also a continent filled with natural beauty, often overlooked by tourists too busy sprinting through sights or searching for the perfect souvenir. But a day in the great outdoors can be just as culturally fulfilling as another church or museum — and much more invigorating.

Europe's greatest natural gift is the Alps. Even those who know a Rocky Mountain high find something special about the Alps. Here, nature and civilization mix comfortably, as if man and mountain shared the same crib.

The Swiss village of Taveyanne, southeast of Lake Geneva, is a jumble of log cabins and snoozing cows stranded all alone at 5,000 feet. The only business in town is the Refuge de Taveyanne, where the Siebenthal family serves traditional meals in a bucolic setting with no electricity — just a huge charred fireplace, prehistoric cash register and hanging ornamental cowbells.

In Austria, the Hinterhornalm offers the ultimate country-alpine experience. After winding up to the summit by car, you're greeted by the rustic Hinterhornalm Berg restaurant and, on sunny days, a butterfly nest of hang-gliders ready to take flight. From here, it's a 20-minute walk to Walderalm, a cluster of three dairy farms with 70 cows that share their meadow with the clouds. The ladies of the farms serve soup, sandwiches and drinks, including very fresh milk in the afternoon, on rough plank tables overlooking the valley and, in the distance, tourist-filled Innsbruck.

Tiny Slovenia offers fine alpine scenery with a Slavic twist. Spend a day driving over the breathtaking Vrsic Pass. The road crests at 5,000 feet, where a mountain hut offers stunning views. After twisting back down the other side of the mountains, drivers end up in the valley of the Soca River, with water that's somehow both crystal clear and spectacularly turquoise. This mecca for kayakers and other whitewater adventurers is known as "Adrenaline Valley."

Nestled inside the Dolomites, Italy's own stretch of Alps, is Europe's largest high alpine meadow, the Alpe di Siusi. Dotted by farm huts and wildflowers, and surrounded by dramatic peaks, the 8-by-20-mile meadow seems to float at 6,500 feet. Crisscrossed by trails, it's ideal for flower lovers, walkers and equestrians. It's also family friendly, with chalet restaurants, playgrounds and plenty of animals to pet at a little park. Being here on a sunny summer day feels like a day at the beach.

There's more to Europe's natural side than mountains. Le Grand Canyon du Verdon is France's answer to the Grand Canyon. The scenery is dramatic, with overpowering slabs of white and salmon-colored limestone plunging impossible distances to the snaking Verdon River far below. The best way to see the canyon is by driving along its left bank, though adventurous travelers can hike down into the canyon.

Perhaps my favorite place to commune with nature is in Italy's Cinque Terre. The five towns that make up the Cinque Terre are strung together by a series of trails that form a national park. Hiking these trails — a seven-mile, five-hour journey — is one of the most exhilarating experiences. Take your time and smell the cactus flowers and herbs, listen to birds and enjoy spectacular vistas on all sides.

When I visited a few months ago, I was saddened to learn that plans to improve the park by adding information offices, mountain biking, museums and other amenities had been scuttled due to misuse of funds (visitors pay about $7 to hike). The guilty officials have been removed from power, but the damage has been done, and the park is in limbo.

Still, my spirits lifted as I hiked among the vineyards and olive groves, with views of Vernazza's castle in the distance and thinking of my post-hike reward: seafood and white wine followed by a quiet sit on the harborfront. The Cinque Terre is still my favorite stretch of Mediterranean coastline, and its beauty can't be marred, even by government corruption.

People often say they need a vacation to recover from their European vacation. But if you take a few days to slow down and explore Europe's natural wonders, you may come home revitalized.

Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)

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chicagotribune.com - Travel: Ken Burns finds bridge for films and travel

chicagotribune.com - Travel
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

Ken Burns finds bridge for films and travel
10 Jun 2011, 7:41 pm

Documentary filmmaker Ken Burns isn't one to easily lend his name to colognes, designer jeans, spaghetti sauce or any of the other entrapments that sometimes come with fame.

But when Tauck, a leading tour company for guided land journeys and small-ship cruises, approached Burns and his partner, Dayton Duncan, about teaming up on a series of events and tours surrounding American culture and history, he happily said yes.

That's when Ken Burns American Journeys came into being.

"We're in the business of history," said Burns, whose documentaries include "The Civil War," "Baseball," "Jazz" and "The National Parks: America's Best Idea." "And a lot of people have paid attention to those films we made."

Film, whether movies or documentaries, inspires travel. Think "Out of Africa" for Kenya, "Mamma Mia!" for Greece or "Under the Tuscan Sun" for Italy. Burns just takes the marriage of film and travel a step further.

His and Duncan's goals in filmmaking pair well with Tauck's mission of sharing America's story in a memorable and compelling way, Burns said, adding, "We both try to engage our audiences, increase their knowledge and make strong emotional connections with the people and stories from America's past that help define who we are today."

When Burns and Duncan collaborated with Tauck on the projects, they came up with three components for travelers.

The first is a set of itineraries called Crafted by Tauck & Ken Burns, the second is a series of filmed narratives titled "Stories by Ken Burns," and the last is Ken Burns Events.

The Crafted itineraries, one focusing on the Civil War and the other on national parks, though not escorted by Burns or Duncan, have been carefully selected, and to use their word, "choreographed" by them.

"It's very difficult for people to do these things on their own," Duncan said. "And guests can expect a deeper experience than they would have had if they had gone on their own."

There are two journeys from which to choose. Spirit of the Desert: The National Parks of the Southwest takes you on a 10-day journey from Grand Junction, Colo., to Las Vegas and through six national parks along what Burns terms "the most interesting, unbelievable landscapes in America," including the Grand Canyon, Arches National Park and Zion National Park. The tours operate until October.

"If you really want to witness the landscape of the national parks when they're most beautiful, at their best, you want to see them at sunrise and sunset," said Duncan, emphasizing those were the times when they typically shot most of their footage for "The National Parks."

The other trip is Most Hallowed Ground, an 11-day tour that focuses on places covered in Burns' "The Civil War" documentary. Beginning in Washington, D.C., and ending in Richmond, Va., and running only in September and October, you will visit places such as Antietam, Gettysburg, Harper's Ferry and Appomattox. There are extras, such as being privy to guided visits, living-history re-enactments, and exclusive presentations and talks by Civil War experts.

Travel aboard the motor coaches of select Tauck tours in the U.S., and you'll be treated to "Ken Burns Stories," the next component of Ken Burns American Journeys that is a production of more than 30 unique behind-the-scenes documentary films.

Burns and Duncan give their perspectives, experiences, stories, and in-depth commentary on national parks, the Civil War, and jazz through destinations including Charleston and Savannah, New Orleans, Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks, the canyon lands of Arizona and Utah, and California's "gold coast" from Sonoma to Los Angeles.

The last of the collaborations is Ken Burns Events, single-time and shorter-length journeys in which Burns makes a personal appearance. A five-day Civil War event was held in Washington in May to a sold-out group, but in October comes the Tauck Jazz Event, which takes its guests through New Orleans' French Quarter with live jazz throughout. Included are a special performance by Ellis Marsalis, a private steamboat cruise, and a keynote address by Burns.

Plans are in the works for an additional Ken Burns Events in 2012 that is named the Tauck Winter in Yellowstone Event.

"Who are we?" Burns says in explaining why he chose to tag-team with Tauck. "Who are Americans? As we explore, we ask that question."

To answer it, he travels an incredible 300-plus days a year for his work to put it all together and give fans of his documentaries and guests of Tauck a heaping helping of American culture.

As for the places they've filmed — those national parks and battlefields and jazz clubs — Burns and Duncan just want people to visit and to see them the way they saw them: as filmmakers.

"Americans should be persuaded, encouraged and required to see these places," says Duncan. "These kinds of stories are the lifeblood of what we hope to bring to the trips."

If you go

For reservations and additional information visit tauck.com or call toll-free 800-788-7885. For more information on Ken Burns, visit pbs.org/kenburns. For more information on the National Park Service, visit nps.gov.

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Saturday, June 11, 2011

chicagotribune.com - Travel: Oh, yes, the Peninsula is that good

chicagotribune.com - Travel
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

Oh, yes, the Peninsula is that good
12 Jun 2011, 7:14 am

Part of a series of mini-reviews of Chicago-area hotels.

Does the 10-year-old Peninsula Chicago deserve all of its accolades? Does it merit Forbes' five-star and AAA's five-diamond ratings or a seemingly perennial spot on Conde Nast Traveler's Gold List?

In a word: Yes. This River North gem embodies opulence, a hotel that knows how to cater to every need without appearing gaudy or flashy. Starting at 530 square feet, the Peninsula guest rooms are some of the largest in town. Inside, a palette of soft gold and butterscotch delivers a light yet warm feel. And gadget hounds will love the bedside control panel, which regulates temperature, lighting and curtains.

The top two floors house The Peninsula Spa, where guests can unwind in one of eight treatment rooms or in the hotel's 25-meter lap pool. Those looking for a workout will find one waiting in the Fitness Center, which offers dozens of classes and personal trainers at the ready.

Dinner is just as invigorating, as guests can choose from four options, including Shanghai Terrace and the two-star Michelin-rated Avenues. With the restaurant's open kitchen and chef's bar, guests can watch executive chef Curtis Duffy build contemporary American dishes using sustainable ingredients and modern techniques.

Finish the night with cocktails at The Bar, the Peninsula's signature lounge, where you never know when an A-list celebrity might show up for a nightcap.

The Peninsula Chicago

Neighborhood: River North

108 E. Superior St.

Chicago, IL 60611

312-337-2888

peninsula.com/chicago

Getting there

Cross Streets: Rush and Chicago

Public transportation: CTA bus: 3-King Drive, 151-Sheridan, 147-Streeterville, 66-Chicago; CTA Red Line "L" stop: Chicago

Parking: Self and valet

Wheelchair access: Yes

The basics

Prices for a standard room start at $325 a night, excluding taxes. Floors: 16. Rooms: 339. Hotel amenities: Ballrooms (2), meeting rooms (7), restaurants and bars/lounges (5), business center, fitness center, pool, whirlpool, steam room, terrace, spa. Room amenities: Flat-screen television, work desk, minibar, in-room safe.

Features

Room service: 24 hours

Turndown service

Pets allowed up to 20 pounds

Wi-Fi: Complimentary

Shopping nearby

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chicagotribune.com - Travel: Chilean ash cloud disrupts New Zealand-Australian flights

chicagotribune.com - Travel
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

Chilean ash cloud disrupts New Zealand-Australian flights
12 Jun 2011, 12:00 am

WELLINGTON (Reuters) - A cloud of ash from an erupting volcano in Chile has drifted over the Atlantic and Indian oceans to lie over southern parts of New Zealand and Australia, disrupting air travel.


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chicagotribune.com - Travel: Bora Bora: Perfect weather, food

chicagotribune.com - Travel
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

Bora Bora: Perfect weather, food
7 Jun 2011, 9:45 pm

Landon Donovan is the face of American soccer and an avid traveler.


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chicagotribune.com - Travel: 25 things about LAX

chicagotribune.com - Travel
Headlines from chicagotribune.com

25 things about LAX
12 Jun 2011, 12:00 am

'Vapor wake'-sniffing dogs, the best vantage points for plane spotting, firetruck salutes — here are 25 things you might not have known about the airport.

Travelers usually try to get in and get out of Los Angeles International Airport as quickly as possible. Who wouldn't? But in their haste, here are 25 things they might have missed:


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